Low angle jack plane vs jointer plane

[Jim Riseborough]

Then my best advice would be to use what you have and learn from the experience.

If you can get the #4 working well, that would be a help.

jtk

Thanks! will update this when I get everything glued up and start flattening it all out.

[Ted Phillips]

I have a Lie Nielsen low angle jack plane. Was going to need to flatten some glue ups, any advice if this is the best plane to use? Currently has a 30Deg bevel on the blade. Should I get a 50deg blade too?

My wood is mostly flat sawn, some knots but not alot.

Thanks

I've got three irons for my BU low angle jack - a standard 30 degree, a 50 degree, and a toothed iron. This is one of the best things about this plane - you can change out the iron and have a whole new plane. Been wanting to try out the 90 degree scraper blade, but haven't dropped the coin on it yet.

TedP

[steven c newman]

I have a #62 and a #6c, a #7c, and a #8 The jointers win hands down.

[Derek Cohen]

I have a #62 and a #6c, a #7c, and a #8 The jointers win hands down.

Why Steven? Inquiring minds would benefit from your reasons (I can see pros and cons - horses for courses).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Lately I have been working with skipped planed Ash....trying to plane it into S4S.....and getting way betters results using a Millers Falls No. 11 Junior Jack plane, than whatever that 62 thinks is good work.

IF it cuts.....if it doesn't produce tearout WITH the grain....jointing an edge is a joke, always bevels an edge...then I have to come back and fix that, with a normal jointer plane, lately it has been a Stanley No. 6c, type 10. Lately, the #62 just sits on a shelf....
jointer.jpg2 stretchers.jpgshavings.jpgjointer.jpg

YMMV

[Derek Cohen]

Steven, what is the angle of the bevel on your #62's blade? What came with the plane when new?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

IMG_7333 (640x480).jpg
Needed this Ash plank S4S....drawers will be sliding on it. There is a knot sitting there, 20 degree bevel tore the H out of it...flipped this useless side over..
IMG_7334 (640x480).jpg
And let Junior handle the job...the knot?
IMG_7335 (640x480).jpg
Had two of these boards to mill, one for the drawers, the other for a pencil til. Junior did the rest of the work..
IMG_7338 (640x480).jpgIMG_7336 (640x480).jpg
Even jointed the edges square..
IMG_7337 (640x480).jpg
IF you look back a bit, you will see the #62 in it's normal spot...$$$ shelf sitter.

[Derek Cohen]

Steven, if you are using the low angle jack with the factory angle on the blade (25 degrees), then the cutting angle will be 37 degrees (25 degrees for the blade + 12 degrees for the bed). This is far too low for most face grain, and definitely too low for any interlocked wood. If you plane is set up like this, then it is no wonder it is tearing out. You need to increase the bevel angle to increase the cutting angle (I would suggest a bevel angle of at least 40 degrees).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Many planes seem to have places where they excel. For me the low angle Jack excels on end grain. Sometimes it is used on face grain of straight grained wood and does a good job. Of course the relatively recent shooting plane from Veritas is even better at end grain on a shooting board. Though the Veritas shooting plane likely isn't a great choice for panel flattening.

jtk

[steven c newman]

I might shoot end grain....couple of times a year. Have had to sharpen the iron on the 62 already....stayed with the same angle set ups. I do not put back bevels and other strange concoctions on the plane irons I use....
smoothed out.jpg
Sometimes, this is about all I need
cleaned joints.jpg
Sometimes, this is all I need to level a glue joint...
No. 8 shavings.jpg
Sometimes, I can use the #8 to flatten a panel..
jack plane shavings.jpg
Sometimes just a Jack plane will do.

YMMV....

[lowell holmes]

I love this string. It shows why we need at least one of each tools.

[Terry Beadle]

Quite some time ago I bought a #10 Harbor Freight small plane. I think I paid $12 or so. I shaped the cutting edge for roughing work and have used it on several glue up work pieces.
Good steel. Cheap. Light weight so an old 70 yr old man like me can cut the mustard with it. A lot cheaper than a low Angle spare blade etc.

Recommended.

Enjoy the shavings.

[Jim Riseborough]

Jim, the LN blades all come with a 25 degree primary bevel. If you add an extra 5 degrees as a secondary bevel, (i.e. 30 degree) you are creating a cutting angle of 42 degrees (12 degrees bed + 30 degree bevel).

Now you MUST NOT use a 10 degree back bevel on a BU plane! This destroys the clearance needed - it reduces it to 2 degrees. Where on Earth did you get this idea? It is crazy ... and quite unnecessary if you are thinking it is a way to strengthen the blade. LN make excellent A2 blades. They are cryogenically treated.

If you were using a double iron BD plane, I would suggest that you close up the chip breaker in the face of tearout. However, since you are using a BU plane, you need to increase the cutting angle. The "common" angle is 45 degrees. You are below this, more in line with a cutting angle used specifically for end grain. But it really is a neither here-nor-there cutting angle. Too high to give the best in end grain, and too low to plane face grain (unless it is clear, strain grained wood).

I use a 25 degree bevel for end grain. Never had a problem with chipping A2 at this angle. I use a 50 degree bevel (= 62 degree cutting angle) for face or edge grain on the local hard woods. Go lower with your woods, hence a 40 degree bevel for a 52 degree cutting angle. Create this by adding a 40 degree secondary bevel to a 25 degree primary bevel. And please get rid of the back bevel!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Back on my project, getting ready to change the angle of the new blade I ordered from LN. How far up the original bevel do I need to grind onto the blade? Im going to go with 40*, so if I go the thickness of the blade up into the factory bevel, that ok?

[David Silverson]

I follow Derek’s advice and sharpen all my BU blades at 25 *. I then add a secondary microbevel as desired , so in your case the secondary microbevel would be at 40* approx 2mm wide.

[Jim Riseborough]

Something like this ok then?Drawing1 Model_1.jpg