I've got three irons for my BU low angle jack - a standard 30 degree, a 50 degree, and a toothed iron. This is one of the best things about this plane - you can change out the iron and have a whole new plane. Been wanting to try out the 90 degree scraper blade, but haven't dropped the coin on it yet.
TedP
I have a #62 and a #6c, a #7c, and a #8 The jointers win hands down.
Lately I have been working with skipped planed Ash....trying to plane it into S4S.....and getting way betters results using a Millers Falls No. 11 Junior Jack plane, than whatever that 62 thinks is good work.
IF it cuts.....if it doesn't produce tearout WITH the grain....jointing an edge is a joke, always bevels an edge...then I have to come back and fix that, with a normal jointer plane, lately it has been a Stanley No. 6c, type 10. Lately, the #62 just sits on a shelf....
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YMMV
Steven, what is the angle of the bevel on your #62's blade? What came with the plane when new?
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Needed this Ash plank S4S....drawers will be sliding on it. There is a knot sitting there, 20 degree bevel tore the H out of it...flipped this useless side over..
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And let Junior handle the job...the knot?
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Had two of these boards to mill, one for the drawers, the other for a pencil til. Junior did the rest of the work..
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Even jointed the edges square..
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IF you look back a bit, you will see the #62 in it's normal spot...$$$ shelf sitter.
Steven, if you are using the low angle jack with the factory angle on the blade (25 degrees), then the cutting angle will be 37 degrees (25 degrees for the blade + 12 degrees for the bed). This is far too low for most face grain, and definitely too low for any interlocked wood. If you plane is set up like this, then it is no wonder it is tearing out. You need to increase the bevel angle to increase the cutting angle (I would suggest a bevel angle of at least 40 degrees).
Regards from Perth
Derek
Many planes seem to have places where they excel. For me the low angle Jack excels on end grain. Sometimes it is used on face grain of straight grained wood and does a good job. Of course the relatively recent shooting plane from Veritas is even better at end grain on a shooting board. Though the Veritas shooting plane likely isn't a great choice for panel flattening.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
I might shoot end grain....couple of times a year. Have had to sharpen the iron on the 62 already....stayed with the same angle set ups. I do not put back bevels and other strange concoctions on the plane irons I use....
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Sometimes, this is about all I need
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Sometimes, this is all I need to level a glue joint...
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Sometimes, I can use the #8 to flatten a panel..
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Sometimes just a Jack plane will do.
YMMV....
I love this string. It shows why we need at least one of each tools.
Quite some time ago I bought a #10 Harbor Freight small plane. I think I paid $12 or so. I shaped the cutting edge for roughing work and have used it on several glue up work pieces.
Good steel. Cheap. Light weight so an old 70 yr old man like me can cut the mustard with it. A lot cheaper than a low Angle spare blade etc.
Recommended.
Enjoy the shavings.
I follow Derek’s advice and sharpen all my BU blades at 25 *. I then add a secondary microbevel as desired , so in your case the secondary microbevel would be at 40* approx 2mm wide.
Something like this ok then?Drawing1 Model_1.jpg