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Thread: Best ways to remove glue from clamps

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Columbus Ohio
    Posts
    355

    Best ways to remove glue from clamps

    What are your best ways to remove glue from clamps? Yes I know prevention is key. Maybe I will be better at that in the future.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    302
    I usually scrap off the rails with a paint scraper....works without much effort.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    48,051
    I scrape for the "big pieces" and use acetone to further clean the glue off. I've been trying harder to avoid getting it on there at this point because it really is a pain in the backside to remove it!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Strike the glue drips with a mallet. They will pop off

  5. #5
    A little paste wax on areas of clamps that will likely get glue makes it come off easier.

  6. #6
    If the glue is the threads of the clamp screw, take a wire brush to it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Burlington, Washington
    Posts
    24
    I've had some success using acetone. Now I use wax paper to cover the clamp area to keep glue off of the clamp.

  8. #8
    Angle grinder with a wire wheel

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carrollton, Georgia
    Posts
    1,701
    This thread is worth a "sticky".

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Chandler, Az
    Posts
    300
    soak them in white vinegar

    Jim

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Prairie Village, KS
    Posts
    307
    Soak some paper towels in vinegar and then wrap them around the clamps. Let them sit for about 15-20 minutes and the glue comes right off. After they are clean wax them up real good and you wont have to worry about it anymore.

  12. #12
    C'mon!! disgustingly dirty clamps with every form of adhesive and overspray is war wounds!!! Of course, I agree that if it interferes with threads, get it off. I use a straight claw hammer on big epoxy drips, and if that don't come off, I use a MAPP gas torch. Its always handy, and softens anything within seconds, then wire brush. And don't flame me with "you'll ruin heat treated steel threads" because I don't heat that much. Worst is the serrations in besseys. They clog easy. Torch it. I bought my Besseys in the late eighties, and they likely still have residue from back then.

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    john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
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    2,596
    Looks like more trouble than it's worth but I have seen a product called Viking glue guard - look like plastic channels that go over the bar clamp.

    Mike

  14. #14
    Lately I have taken to keeping some short pieces of 1/4" thick stock laying on my assembly table, and laying them on each end of the panel so my clamp does not lay in the glue. This is just for the top side of the panel, but I use cauls so do not have clamps on the bottom side of the panel.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carrollton, Georgia
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Goetzke View Post
    ...I have seen a product called Viking glue guard - look like plastic channels that go over the bar clamp.

    Mike
    The problem with this sort of thing is the length between jaws is always variable .. so, either you have to have a number of them to piece on the bar, or have to cut one to length ahead of time.

    ..And then the problem with, say, waxed paper over the bars is it always seems to get included in the glued joint.

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