Mike, when I needed to source something locally, "stove pipe" was the way to get 26 gage material, even at the 'borg, although they only carry 24" long snap-lock in that thickness. Other sources carried 60" material which was my preference.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Jim
Yeah, there are a lot of ways to "skin this cat". I also know quite a few sheet metal workers, retired, and still working. If I ever needed something "special" done, they'd just crank it out.
We have a really nice sheet metal fab shop at work. It's cool to watch them make duct work.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Mike, I read this thread for the first time just now and after reading the first couple of messages I was going to suggest the PVC method also! I have done the heat and sizing, either with a heat gun or a propane torch if I don't care what it looks like. (also easy to bend PVC if needed - I did that installing a automatic waterer for the horses.) As you said, the stuff gets real soft with little effort cools in just a few minutes.
If you have a lathe you can turn a wooden form to push over or inside the pipe, tapering the wood a bit to make it easier to get started.
Another thing I did when installing my DC system (ClearVue) was make adapters with short pieces of 4" and 6" pipe, the bandsaw, and some glue. For example, if I wanted an adapter to slide into a 6" duct to make a coupler to a blast gate, I started with a ring of 6" pipe, calculated the needed circumference, then cut a segment out of the ring with the bandsaw to give the needed diameter when pressed together. Then I glued the new piece inside the 6" duct or inside a shorter ring to hold the size. It was very quick to make such fittings.
I think anyone who designs or installs a dust collector should start by reading Bill Pentz. Guess what, he has good instructions for bending and forming PVC to make anything needed!
How to Bend and Form PVC
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/pvc.cfm
JKJ
Thanks John. I like the idea of turning a wooden cone shapen piece to slide inside the heated PCV. Also, the idea for making an adapter to fit inside a DC fitting is great. I have not tried that yet but it is on my list now. Thanks for your ideas.
MJM
My plastic DD ingress and egress ports are flared. I slipped the connectors on until tight, measured the location on the intake and cut the unneeded length of the flare off on the infeed. Didn't worry about the outfeed.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Can't believe no one mentioned 3-D printer. Print your own.
Bob