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Thread: Portable saw ogee foot jig/fixture

  1. #1

    Portable saw ogee foot jig/fixture

    ogee foot fixture.jpeg

    I felt this was post worthy because it was suggested to me by a young man with great ideas about jigs. I never saw this idea in magazines or on the internet.

    1) Cut a piece of baltic plywood the size of the saw table.

    2) Clamp it securely to the table.

    3) Slowly raise the blade through the plywood to the depth of the ogee on your template. 1/2" in this case.

    4) Using the template as a guide, adjust the template by eye so that it lines up with the profile. Nail down the guide boards temporarily.

    5) Lower the blade and cut a test piece in 1/16" increments.

    6) Adjust if needed and then glue and screw the guide boards in place.

    The nice thing here is you can use save and use the jig over and over if you like the results. Better than a one time clamp onto the saw approach IMO.

    My 2 cents.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    East Virginia
    R.J. DeCristoforo talks about doing that in his "Table Saw Book." I always wanted to try it, but haven't yet.

    You can also change the shape of what gets removed – making it much deeper than wide, for example – by changing the angle that you feed the work through.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Cove cutting on the tablesaw is quite useful. At least one commercial jig is made for the purpose (Rockler) but, your method is just as good for repeated pieces. I use some extrusions and clamps to make some of the design elements on my pieces. I like the fixed guides on your jig which could also be used for decorative sides on small boxes. Thanks or showing it.

    GnG Low CoD (228).jpgGnG Low CoD (236).jpgGnG Low CoD (237).jpgGnG Low CoD (235).jpg
    "The Danish government believes that if we train 5,000 designers, and produce
    one Hans Wegner, the money is very well spent." - Ole Gjerlov-Knudsen

  4. #4
    Here are a couple calculators that may be useful to you.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    East Virginia
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    Here are a couple calculators that may be useful to you.
    Wow, those are great links, Peter. Thanks!

  6. #6
    Very clever, I always wondered though that looks awful
    hard on blades,

  7. #7
    Not really all that hard on a blade. You’re only taking a sixteenths to maybe an eight of an inch deep cuts at most depending on the wood you’re cutting. It isn’t something you would do if you wanted to make crown molding for a house. If you feel it wears out one side of the blade too much just reset it to cut from the opposite side for a while. There are one or two companies that make a coving blade that have rounded tips so the coves are smoother so there is less finishing to do.

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