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Thread: Grizzly G0453Z 15" Planer Issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Grizzly G0453Z 15" Planer Issues

    Hello,
    I have the aforementioned planer from Grizzly and I'm having 2 issues.

    1) No matter what I do, I cannot move the infeed or outfeed rollers manually, its like they're stuck. Even if I put the planer in the neutral gear (which by itself is extremely hard to find because there are no real detents in that knob so I just tried multiple different positions) I cannot move the rollers. The manual says I should be able to at this point and while planing and in neutral, they indeed don't move with the machine but do move otherwise in the high and low RPMs as expected. I just cannot get the darn things to move when the planer is off no matter what I try.

    Also worth noting is that the manual directly contradicts itself, as on one page it says to not change the feed speed unless the planer is on, while on the roller adjustment page it says to turn the planer off and adjust the feed speed to neutral after.

    2) I'm getting visible lines from the metal serrated infeed planer if I take a very shallow finishing pass. Oddly enough, as far as I can tell, it only happens towards the front of the infeed roller because if I plane on the left side it seems to be fine and on the right side I'm only seeing it slightly to the left where the wood is closer to the middle of the infeed. If I go directly in the middle, a whole 2x4 will have the serrated lines in it. I loosened the tension springs on the rollers as they were way tighter from the factory than they state for them to be in the manual (the large screws should be 1/8" protruding up over the housing, with the fourth one being 5/16" over the housing) but this didn't seem to help either. I'm kind of at a loss here...

    My planer came with the updated rubber outfeed roller but it seems like its the infeed roller that is having issues. General planing, otherwise, seems to go well, its just the very shallow final passes which obviously is very frustrating as I'm trying to put a good face at close to final dimensions as I'm finishing my planing operations.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Central, PA
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    I have the same issue with very ďthinĒ passers. Fortunately sanding takes out the marks.

  3. #3
    I have the older version of the G0453 with metal rollers. It will leave marks if you take too light of a pass. I just make sure that I leave enough material for the lass pass so that it doesn't leave marks. Adding a digital gauge to the planer did wonders for that.

    It seems like hardwoods need at least a 1/32 to 1/16 cut and soft woods more more like 1/16 to not leave any marks from the rollers.

    I almost always leave it in finish mode. 16 FMP gives me more time to get to the other side of the planer to catch boards.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    In doing more and more research it seems like this is the norm. I do have a digital height gauge but have yet to install it on the planer so I think that'll be my next step and I'll follow the general rule you outlined Andrew as a guide. Thanks.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    fayetteville Arkansas
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    I have the same planer, get your digital gauge installed, you find it a game changer in the use of the planer.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
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    1). Why do you want to move the rollers by hand? I donít believe there is a neutral. If I remember the gearbox right, the gear moves from one gear to the other with no gap in between. Been a while though so I could be wrong.
    And by rollers, you donít mean the table rollers right?

    2) Mine (old Jet) has no snipe and cuts nicely, but will make marks from the serated roller with very light passes. Just the norm with the design I think.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    LI, NY
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    178
    For the roller marks...change out the serrated/ribbed steel front roller for a rubber coated one...I did it on a 15" jet, and a 20" powermatic....works great and solves the problem.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    1). Why do you want to move the rollers by hand? I don’t believe there is a neutral. If I remember the gearbox right, the gear moves from one gear to the other with no gap in between. Been a while though so I could be wrong.
    And by rollers, you don’t mean the table rollers right?

    2) Mine (old Jet) has no snipe and cuts nicely, but will make marks from the serated roller with very light passes. Just the norm with the design I think.
    Matt, the instructions for adjusting the roller parallelism to the bed state to rotate the rollers to find center and they state that when in neutral the rollers should move. That is not the case so I was trying to figure out if there was something wrong with my planer. On another forum, someone explained that the rollers are engaged with drive chains with the cutterhead and that they won't move freely because of this (huge RPM cutterhead going down to 30 rpm rollers etc) which makes perfect sense actually.

    And yes, the more I'm reading about this on the web with this design of the serrated rollers on these type of machines, it is apparently the norm. I will install the digital readout and hopefully that helps.

  9. #9
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    Dec 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Przybylski View Post
    Matt, the instructions for adjusting the roller parallelism to the bed state to rotate the rollers to find center and they state that when in neutral the rollers should move.
    I donít quite follow that. The rollers are cylinders, center is going to be the same place. Moving a dial caliper to find center makes sense.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    I donít quite follow that. The rollers are cylinders, center is going to be the same place. Moving a dial caliper to find center makes sense.
    With serated rollers, there's definitely a point that is lower. I have the G1021X2, and the neutral setting on it does let the rollers turn independently, it's very stiff though and neutral is tough to find.

  11. #11
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    I setup using a dial indicator with flat tip, problem solved. I have serated rollers too.

  12. #12
    I just dialed in my 20" four post planer using the methods in this video. I did buy their dial indicator base thing. it worked great. My planer is running great now!

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    I don’t quite follow that. The rollers are cylinders, center is going to be the same place. Moving a dial caliper to find center makes sense.
    Yep, I actually have the same as you, a flat tip on my dial indicator, but was just trying to follow the directions to a T so that I am doing what the manufacturer suggested exactly. Obviously it did not work out that way in the end

  14. We actually have a video on how to set the whole planer up properly. Our Video library has about 300 videos and growing, so look for other common fixes on our website.

    Thanks.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0arGQP38yg

  15. #15
    Shiraz, I linked to your video above. It was what I needed to get my planer working well. Thank you!

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