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Thread: Best ball joint/tie rod end/ stearing arm grease

  1. #1
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    Best ball joint/tie rod end/ stearing arm grease

    My son is in the process of completely rebuilding the front end of a 2008 Chevy Impala.
    For tie rod ends he chose Moog.
    These units allow for grease zirk,or perhaps they come with them.
    He wants to use the very best grease. He drives perhaps 50k+/year. His last vehical went past 400k.
    His car is a 2008 Chevy Impala ls, with soft ride suspension.
    3.5L v6.
    Does anyone know what grease is used by Moog at manufacture (continuity) or maybe a superior product.
    I'd appreciate any advice.
    He's 450 miles away and, I believe, "under it now".
    Any things to watch out for on the job as a whole?
    This is his first time with these procedures and wants to get it right
    Thank you.

  2. #2
    This--
    valvoline.jpg
    this is NGLI #2 grease which is recommended by many if not most mfr's for suspension, wheel bearing, u-joint etc lubrication, and years ago, *I think it was* Cummins and/or Freightliner that I found recommended Valvoline's Ford/Lincoln/Mercury grease. Everything I've greased in the past 7 years has gotten this grease. I particularly like how, when checking wheel bearings after some mileage (boat trailer bearings usually) that it's the same as when it went in, always the same consistency, never any signs of thinning out.
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  3. #3
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    I'm curious how many miles are on the parts he replaced. GM passenger cars of that vintage had no requirement for the old-style "chassis lube"...last one I recall having that did was a 1981. The OEM parts are usually good for 150K-200K miles before replacement anyway.
    Last edited by Lee DeRaud; 01-05-2019 at 1:15 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud View Post
    I'm curious how many miles are on the parts he replaced. GM passenger cars of that vintage had no requirement for the old-style "chassis lube"...last one I recall having that did was a 1981. The OEM parts are usually good for 150K-200K miles before replacement anyway.
    375k.
    Within the joints there is also wear going on creating minute particals that will accelerate wear.
    There will always be contaminates accumulate, as well.
    Why not refresh with new at each oil change? Press out the old.
    It would only take 2 minutes and he always does his own oil changes.
    I think it has merit. Particularly since he wants this car to top 1,000,000 miles

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Jobe View Post
    375k.
    Within the joints there is also wear going on creating minute particals that will accelerate wear.
    There will always be contaminates accumulate, as well.
    Why not refresh with new at each oil change? Press out the old.
    It would only take 2 minutes and he always does his own oil changes.
    I think it has merit. Particularly since he wants this car to top 1,000,000 miles
    If 375K is typical for that car, he needs to change them once more to get to 1M. I guess my question is, will the new parts last another 625K? Lube or not, I'd be surprised.

    On a million-mile car, you're getting into things like replacing steering racks and similar stuff anyway.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  6. #6
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    I don't know how to get the old grease out without blowing the seals. I just replaced every moving part in the steering system on my truck, after 18 years, and 325k miles, but it goes in, and out some long rough roads fairly often. When greasing the front end, I have a grease gun with several hose extensions on it. A helper pumps the handle until I say stop. I keep fingers on the boot, and call for a stop when I feel any expansion of the boot.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    I don't know how to get the old grease out without blowing the seals. I just replaced every moving part in the steering system on my truck, after 18 years, and 325k miles, but it goes in, and out some long rough roads fairly often. When greasing the front end, I have a grease gun with several hose extensions on it. A helper pumps the handle until I say stop. I keep fingers on the boot, and call for a stop when I feel any expansion of the boot.
    Here's what Moog has to say about them:

    "Problem Solver powdered metal gusher bearing design enables grease to flow through the bearing to the stud for reduced friction and enhanced strength and stability.
    Greaseable socket design allows new lubricant to flush contaminants from the assembly, reducing corrosion and wear."

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