Table saw featherboard hold downs?

[andy bessette]

I don't want anything on my fence that prevents me from wrapping my hand around it while I feed material.

[Shiraz Balolia]

These two videos might give you some ideas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ5RG1hnM1M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N92KeVWuE2c

[Derek Cohen]

I have not come across this, but cannot think of a good reason why it should not be done. Please, if you know of any safety, practical, or other reason NOT to do this, share your knowledge. After successfully making a few wood featherboards for different purposes, I am wondering about gluing a few featherboards, say 6" wide, to a piece of plywood that can be attached to the table saw fence. The plywood can be slotted to allow for varying wood thickness. The idea is to provide a continuous light downward pressure downward toward the table and possibly helping to prevent kickback. I've seen featherboards used before and after the blade for downward pressure, but why not through the cut also? I realize it gets in the way of a push stick which would have to be used further away from the saw's fence, but the notched push shoe I currently used could easily be used 1-1/2 to 2" away from the fence. I have an older saw with no riving knife and the overhead splitter wobbles around to the point of being scary. I commonly use a Magswitch to apply side pressure toward the fence and only ahead of the blade.

I did this with my previous table saw. It worked very well ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

[Simon MacGowen]

Quote Originally Posted by Bill Space View Post
But I will take exception with you recommendation to reach beyond the blade and pull material through. Where I come from this is a Cardinal sin to be avoided. Accident waiting to happen.

Please explain how, with all the feather boards you have there?

Are we here talking about two persons handling the rip, with the helper at the exit end pulling the stock?

I would not recommend doing the pulling if it is just one operator working the saw for two good reasons. The operator has to walk around the table to pull if it is a long piece, and he or she is likely trying to do it quickly which, depending on how well the shop is maintained, could subject himself or herself to tripping in a hurry. Second, the chance of burns on the stock is higher as the blade and wood's contact prolongs.

If it is a short piece, reaching behind and pulling it as Bill pointed out is a big NO NO. Anyone who has a habit of doing that better do himself or herself a favor and get a SawStop. No kidding. That habit is like playing the Russian Roulette. There are many well-documented tablesaw injuries when people tried to reach behind a spinning blade...

Simon

[Bill Space]

I think Simon summed it up well...

As a matter habit I never reach behind the blade ( or over it) regardless of how many feather boards and guards I have in place. Only because I realize if I develop that habit I may do the same thing with less protection in place and bingo, a bad thing could happen.

Bill

[Dennis McCullen]

Excellent point, Andy. I'm sure folks would cringe to see me feed stock without the latest way of Gripping, BUT I am accustomed to anchoring my precious right hand by wrapping one or two fingers over the fence, attempting to make pulling that hand into the blade more difficult.

I don't want anything on my fence that prevents me from wrapping my hand around it while I feed material.

[Dennis McCullen]

I did this with my previous table saw. It worked very well … Looks like carriage bolts worked well for giving you more space than any knobs.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Looks like carriage bolts worked well for giving you more space than any knobs.

[Robert Engel]

I think Simon summed it up well...

As a matter habit I never reach behind the blade ( or over it) regardless of how many feather boards and guards I have in place. Only because I realize if I develop that habit I may do the same thing with less protection in place and bingo, a bad thing could happen.

Bill

I agree reaching behind the blade is a definite no no. But I'm talking about standing behind the saw and pulling material through. My point was with all the superfluous featherboards there is no way to push material through the blade so he resorts to sticking a dowel in there to push the board?

Personally I don't ever pull wood through a cut because I don't ever need to.

I will stand by my opinion that it is overkill. But if you're a bit scared of the machine, by all means use whatever safety devices make you comfortable.

I rarely every use a featherboard to hold a board down. The push block does that. I do occasionally use a magnetic featherboard to keep thin material pressed against the fence or when making cuts with material held vertically like a raised panel.

IMO something like Derek's setup + a riving knife + push block + grey matter between the ears is all you need.

[Dan Rude]

I used to do this with feather boards, but bought the Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides. They are somwhat expensive, but well worth it. Dave Stanton, does a great review of them and the router table guides. He also made a jig to hold them, saw it after I had drilled and taped my fence on my Sawstop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMYbMbTJdH0 Dan

[Tim Andrews]

Dennis, I like your design and think it’s another step in safety. I’m going to do something similar.

[Chris Parks]

I think Simon summed it up well...

As a matter habit I never reach behind the blade ( or over it) regardless of how many feather boards and guards I have in place. Only because I realize if I develop that habit I may do the same thing with less protection in place and bingo, a bad thing could happen.

Bill

I did that and the piece I was picking up slipped from my fingers, hit the blade that then shot the piece into my chest. I don't do it any more. I cringe every time I see someone reach over the top of an unguarded running table saw blade.

[Derek Cohen]

I built a new featherboard hold down for the K3 today. Yes, I know that there is a slider for ripping, but I do also use the rip fence. What I found was that the work piece is prone to lift when passed along the rip fence and there is nothing to prevent kickback. Hence the hold down ...

It is somewhat self-explanatory. There are adjustments for vertical (height of work piece) and horizontal (positioning along the rip fence).

From the front ...



From the side ...



and from the rear ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Simon MacGowen]

The bridge solution to the odd-shaped fence's back is clever.

Simon

[Edwin Santos]

Grip Tite offered a steel fence plate that attaches to the fence so their magnetic feather boards can be mounted on the fence. They also had a neat roller system that would exert down pressure and also was biased to pull the work piece toward the fence. I have one on my saw and use it all the time.
Attachment 400281

I like the Grip Tite products too. It's too bad they went out of business and their products are no longer available.

[Rick Potter]

Thanks Derek,

I'm, gonna use your idea for the Unifence on my 30 year old Unisaw.