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Thread: Table saw featherboard hold downs?

  1. #1
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    Table saw featherboard hold downs?

    I have not come across this, but cannot think of a good reason why it should not be done. Please, if you know of any safety, practical, or other reason NOT to do this, share your knowledge. After successfully making a few wood featherboards for different purposes, I am wondering about gluing a few featherboards, say 6" wide, to a piece of plywood that can be attached to the table saw fence. The plywood can be slotted to allow for varying wood thickness. The idea is to provide a continuous light downward pressure downward toward the table and possibly helping to prevent kickback. I've seen featherboards used before and after the blade for downward pressure, but why not through the cut also? I realize it gets in the way of a push stick which would have to be used further away from the saw's fence, but the notched push shoe I currently used could easily be used 1-1/2 to 2" away from the fence. I have an older saw with no riving knife and the overhead splitter wobbles around to the point of being scary. I commonly use a Magswitch to apply side pressure toward the fence and only ahead of the blade.

  2. #2
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    There is no reason why you can't mount a feather board on the fence right where the cutting action is taking place. However as you pointed out pushing the piece through the cut can be a problem. There are several commercially available fence mounted feather board systems, so you don't have to reinvent them on your own. Just google fence mounted feather boards.

    Kick back is usually caused by poor saw alignment or poor technique. If you haven't already done it, take the time to align your saw with a dial indicator. The blade should be aligned to the miter slot and so should the fence. Also make sure you saw blade is raised above the piece being cut at least high enough for the bottom of the gullets to be clear of the wood surface. Never use the fence to cross cut a piece that is wider than the face that is riding against the fence.
    Lee Schierer
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  3. #3
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    Hi,

    I do do something like that all the time. Also have a flat blade guard I attach that extends out over the blade, not shown in this picture.

    Sorry about the picture orientation. Tried rotating it several times before uploading but it stayed 90 degrees off all then time.

    Edit: When cutting narrow pieces like this I use a dowel rod to push the piece past the blade...

    CAC28489-8772-4D05-828F-A56F5BE08431.jpg

    ( also on preview looks like I was not able to delete the extra photos )

    You have to click on Edit and then go to advanced settings to delete excess photos. To fix your photo orientation I downloaded the file opened it in "Windows live photo gallery", rotated it and up loaded it back to the site.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 01-03-2019 at 12:33 PM. Reason: fixed photos
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  4. #4
    I've never seen a reason to do that other than hold down for rabbets, grooves, etc. From experience I will say kickback is 99% operator error. However, a misaligned fence can be another cause. Taking time to read your lumber prior to cutting is very important. Another common mistake is having the blade too far above the lumber. One of the highest risk operations for kickback is cutting 1/4" plywood. Gotta be on your toes working with this.

    A push block accomplishes what you're after re: holding material down. It also pushes both sides of the cut through the blade (very important!!).

    Not intending to be critical, but WADR IMO the set up pictured by Bill is unnecessary. Pulling the material through rather than sticking a dowel rod next to a spinning blade would be much safer, too.

    If you're interested I'll tell you how I make this cut safely, accurately, and much quicker using a guide stick and push block.

    Dennis, I strongly recommend you install a splitter that actually works on your saw ASAP. I use the MicroJig splitter and it works fine. Your saw will be safer and more accurate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    I've never seen a reason to do that other than hold down for rabbets, grooves, etc.
    This is my use also particularly for thinner or larger stock like sheet goods. The tablesaw table is (hopefully) very flat so the difference in groove depth caused by an irregular surface (like plywood) or poor stock control can be problematic. Pressure right over TDC on the blade helps with this. For through cuts I use them before and (sometimes) after the blade.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    I've never seen a reason to do that other than hold down for rabbets, grooves, etc. From experience I will say kickback is 99% operator error. However, a misaligned fence can be another cause. Taking time to read your lumber prior to cutting is very important. Another common mistake is having the blade too far above the lumber. One of the highest risk operations for kickback is cutting 1/4" plywood. Gotta be on your toes working with this.

    A push block accomplishes what you're after re: holding material down. It also pushes both sides of the cut through the blade (very important!!).

    Not intending to be critical, but WADR IMO the set up pictured by Bill is unnecessary. Pulling the material through rather than sticking a dowel rod next to a spinning blade would be much safer, too.

    If you're interested I'll tell you how I make this cut safely, accurately, and much quicker using a guide stick and push block.

    Dennis, I strongly recommend you install a splitter that actually works on your saw ASAP. I use the MicroJig splitter and it works fine. Your saw will be safer and more accurate.
    Robert, I understand where you are coming from. Can’t argued that ripping on the table saw the way I often do takes more time to set up, but especially for thin strips less than 1/2 inch it is very good.

    But I will take exception with you recommendation to reach beyond the blade and pull material through. Where I come from this is a Cardinal sin to be avoided. Accident waiting to happen.

    I use use push blocks all the time. Anything that keeps one’s hands well away from the blade are highly recommended.

    Keep in in mind the original question related to home shop use. Time is not critical as it is in a commercial shop.

    All things condidered, the OP’s question is a valid one. As you pointed out, issues like a defective splitter should be addressed immediately. And the table saw should be set up properly. No question there.

    From my experience I cannot see how doing what the OP proposed would be a negative safety wise. Time wise might be, but that is likely a non issue.
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  7. #7
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    Magnetic feathering boards easily solve this "problem". Been using these for decades without a problem.
    Last edited by andy bessette; 01-03-2019 at 12:05 PM.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  8. #8
    I've recently built a small "jig" for a featherboard along the fence. I already use featherboards on the left of the blade on the tabletop and I have a splitter and blade guard that I use as often as possible. I only use one along the fence slightly behind the blade and it helps hold down the board tremendously while still allowing me to use a pushstick.

    My table isn't set up at the moment but you can see the jig pretty well in these pics. It is just sitting on top of my bandsaw table for the pic.
    I use two 1/4 20 bolts so I can slide it along the t-track in the top of my fence and I have a second set of through holes that allow me to cut boards that are taller than the amount the featherboard will adjust. I love it.

    Jon in Texas
    table saw featherboard front.jpgtable saw featherboard back.jpg
    Last edited by Jon Wolfe; 01-03-2019 at 12:43 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Space View Post
    Hi,

    I do do something like that all the time. Also have a flat blade guard I attach that extends out over the blade, not shown in this picture.

    Sorry about the picture orientation. Tried rotating it several times before uploading but it stayed 90 degrees off all then time.

    Edit: When cutting narrow pieces like this I use a dowel rod to push the piece past the blade...

    CAC28489-8772-4D05-828F-A56F5BE08431.jpg
    Note that you can remove the first grey feather board attached to your fence if you use the black "L" shaped piece on your Grip Tite Feater board to do the exact same thing. Then you will have less stuff in the way of making your cut. For pushing pieces past the blade I prefer this type of push stick which holds down as it pushes.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Lee Schierer
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  10. #10
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    Aluminum fence

    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Magnetic feathering boards easily solve this "problem". Been using these for decades without a problem.
    I love the MagSwitch I use ahead of the blade; it just doesn't work on the aluminum fence I have.

  11. #11
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    Thanks, Lee. The set up I'm picturing would have wooden featherboard 1/2" thick all along the fence attached to a nice chunk of 2X lumber that attaches to the top of the fence with hex bolts and knobs. I actually believe the long featherboard would be best attached with machine screws so there are no knobs in the way of pushing through the cut. My push "shoe" I call it is close to that pictured, notched at the bottom and applies downward pressure. I've used it safely for decades and made a couple for giveaways to newbies.
    Last edited by Dennis McCullen; 01-03-2019 at 4:40 PM. Reason: additional infoWHOA!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis McCullen View Post
    I love the MagSwitch I use ahead of the blade; it just doesn't work on the aluminum fence I have.
    Grip Tite offered a steel fence plate that attaches to the fence so their magnetic feather boards can be mounted on the fence. They also had a neat roller system that would exert down pressure and also was biased to pull the work piece toward the fence. I have one on my saw and use it all the time.
    lsfence1.jpg
    Lee Schierer
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  13. #13
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    Fir featherboard (2).jpgSo this is what I have for a prototype. The 1/2" fir and the bolt head let me pass a push "shoe" within 3/4" of the fence. I thought I'd try this just aft the blade. I bought some plastic featherboards and mounted three of them onto a 2x bolted to the top of the fence. I didn't much care for the knobs sticking out an extra 1-1/8" over this. Thanks to all who contributed; we all need all the safety we can get. Things can happen very quickly; we just need to make sure they are only good things.
    Last edited by Dennis McCullen; 01-07-2019 at 8:18 AM. Reason: add photo

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Space View Post
    But I will take exception with you recommendation to reach beyond the blade and pull material through. Where I come from this is a Cardinal sin to be avoided. Accident waiting to happen.
    Please explain how, with all the feather boards you have there?

  15. #15
    Looks great Dennis.
    I agree about safety.
    I think i might disagree about the good things happening quickly though, in my shop they seem to take forever.
    Jon
    Last edited by Jon Wolfe; 01-07-2019 at 11:05 AM.

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