Rolling pin finish

[roger wiegand]

Leaving the pin unfinished is ok, unless the wood contacts and soaks in oils that can become rancid. Then your rolling pin can take on molds and objectionable smells.

Have you had that problem? Mine is at least 70 years old, in constant use for three generations, and it hasn't happened yet.

[allen thunem]

Just an opinion but the shortening from the dough will absorb into the wood. No need for any finish.
The more they get used the better they look and work and feel.

[Reed Gray]

Sugar maple and beech are the woods mostly used by the 'chef' grade rolling pins. Closed grain and hard. As for finish, it seems that many prefer bare, or the oil/wax mix. If I use oil, it is the walnut oils, not mineral. Washing doesn't hurt them if you rinse, but never soak them. Dry with a towel. Wood does like to be out in the open rather than in a cupboard...

robo hippy

[David Hill]

Mineral is great for rolling pins. Apply and wipe, refresh as needed. Mineral oil will NEVER go rancid and is food safe.

[John K Jordan]

Having been asked to turn some French rolling pins, I'm wondering what kind of finish to put on them to make them work well with flour and be easy to clean. The web indicates using some form of beeswax that is melted into the wood and then buffed off. Also, is there a particular type of wood that works well or more importantly, some types to Not use? Any thoughts and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
bill

Bill, I've turned a bunch of these from a variety of woods, walnut, maple, etc. I like finer grained woods best like dogwood and persimmon. I've used an oil finish - well cured it perfectly food safe. But beeswax is my usual finish, straight, no solvant. (I have beehives and plenty of beeswax!)

I've applied beeswax two ways - one is rub it on the wood with the lathe spinning then use a paper towel pressed firmly to create heat and melt the wax. It helps to warm the wax a little if the room is cold. I prefer the second way: warm the wood carefully with a heat gun at low temperature, apply wax to an area, then apply heat to melt the wax. I do this with the the piece mounted on the lathe but turning only by hand. After applying plenty of wax this way I heat areas and wipe off any excess melted wax. A good rubdown by hand with a cloth and it's done. Maybe that's what you mean by "buffing" instead of a buffing wheel like like the Beall.

We are putting wax on a short one this girl made (the longest that little lathe could handle). Some others I've done, end views. I think I start with a 24" blank.

WearsValley_01.jpg rolling_pins_five.jpg

JKJ

[John Hart]

John Jordan is the pro. I'll follow his lead any day