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Thread: Wall cut-outs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Colorado Springs
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    360

    Wall cut-outs

    Running wire and installing outlets in my shop now. I haven’t decided yet if walls will be plywood, T1-11, or SmartSide. Leaning away from drywall.

    What is is best way to cut out the numerous holes for switches and receptacle boxes assuming something other than drywall? RotoZip still work, vs trim router or maybe jig saw or Sawzall?

    thanks and happy new year to all,

    jon

  2. #2
    This doesn’t answer your question, but when I built my shop the electrician suggested surface mounted boxes and conduit.

    I’m really glad I did that makes adding, adapting circuits a snap.

    Plus (to your question) no box cutting out!

  3. #3
    To not answer your question again, I did drywall with Romex for my first shop with outlets mounted in the wall. For my second shop I did OSB and surface mounted conduit. If for some reason I ever do a third shop, it will be OSB or plywood walls with surface mounted conduit. Installation was about the same amount of work, and it is way easier to modify later on, which you probably will do no matter what. I would never do drywall for shop walls again. Being able to easily hang anything anywhere is too convenient.

    To answer your actual question. When I have had to do openings for boxes in OSB or plywood, I drilled holes in opposite corners and used a Bosch jig saw. This is prefaced by a lot of measuring and figuring and occasionally followed by a lot of swearing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    I used 1/2" ply on all interior walls and ceilings. I made all cutouts by carefully measuring, drilling two holes to touch both lines in opposite corners using a bit big enough for a jigsaw blade, then cut the rectangle with the jigsaw. I cut outside the line to allow a bit of slop for easier fit.

    I think the sawzall would be harder to control than the jigsaw. I wouldn't use my RotoZip on anything other than sheetrock and even then a hand saw is better. I can't see using the trim router for this since the jigsaw is fast and sufficient.

    Another easy way for plywood is to run the wires but no boxes in the wall, cut the rectangle well between the studs, and use old work boxes after the plywood is up. I wouldn't use this for flimsy wall covering in a shop. I don't know if this would be allowed if it needed to be inspected.

    BTW, I put up all my plywood with screws so I could take down panels if needed. I did use leftover Smartside in the maintenance area of the shop and it's fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Snider View Post
    Running wire and installing outlets in my shop now. I haven’t decided yet if walls will be plywood, T1-11, or SmartSide. Leaning away from drywall.

    What is is best way to cut out the numerous holes for switches and receptacle boxes assuming something other than drywall? RotoZip still work, vs trim router or maybe jig saw or Sawzall?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    I never cut them out in place. They are cut before the piece of whatever is put up.

    My preferred method is to not fasten any boxes to studs to start with. They can still be placed right beside a stud, but I will just pull the wires, then pull them into the box as it's slid in after the finish wall is up.

    For 120v receptacles, I use the heavy duty, plastic old work boxes. They get mounted into the wall panel/sheetrock, and a bead of construction adhesive run all the way around it on the back of the panel, before the panel is put in place. If it's something like the Smartside, I place them where I want them without regard to fastening to a stud. Pull the wires into the box as you put the panel in place. I don't like the cheap boxes, but have never had a problem doing this with the heavy duty boxes.

    I hate oversized cover plates, so this also allows the use of standard sized covers. Another thing allowed by the old work boxes is that they are automatically at the exactly correct relationship with the wall surface. That allows the device to have a secure attachment, which doesn't let it move around. I hate devices that move even more than oversized cover plates. Also, on panels like the Smartside, it lets you put the box where the cover won't span one of the grooves. It also lets you put switches a little farther from studs framing door openings, which is especially helpful if you're planning to use wide casing.

    When putting the panel in place, and pulling the wires into the box, I break out the little trap door clamps with needle nosed pliers, to make it easier to get the wires in, and caulk the hole once everything is in place, with some of the leftover fire caulking. The construction adhesive around the back of the box edge, and the caulking in the wire holes make it an airtight fitting to the wall.

    I also run a groove in the sole plate to pull wires so they don't interfere with installing the insulation. You have to pull wires that turn corners when setting the corner posts though. I've never met an Electrical Inspector that didn't like this method, but there is always some explaining to do to a new one when they come for rough-in inspection, and there are only wires stapled to the studs.

    A piece of plywood the right size for the cutout stays in my "Electric" toolbox to mark where I want the opening for the box.
    Last edited by Tom M King; 01-02-2019 at 9:21 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I did in the wall with stud mounted boxes. I used a jig saw for the cutouts prior to mounting the panel. I used OSB, primed and painted semi-gloss white. What a boost in light and reduction of shadows! As usual, Tom's experience shows its value time and again. If I do it again, I will follow his method of quality old-work boxes. This sounds like the hot ticket. BTW, I screwed the OSB to the studs and have taken panels down to add additional outlets. No big deal. I do used a cleat wall for hanging fixtures. One of the best ideas I ever read for shop walls.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7
    My shop has 1/2" OSB sheathing. I used Blind Mark tools to find the cutout locations to jigsaw. It keeps the mistakes from measuring and marking from happening when you are working alone. I'm not a pro board hanger so it was money well spent for me. Their video's show how they work. I differed from their method by marking the locations then cutting off the wall.
    Last edited by Peter Christensen; 01-01-2019 at 3:56 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    9,879
    I paneled the wall behind my woodstove with hardi panel because it is fireproof and it was the closest match to the existing Masonite paneling from the 1970's. I used plywood with a cutout and a router with a guide on it with a 1/4" spiral endmill. That job looks good but man that stuff is heavy. It was only three sheets but every piece had at least one cutout or notch around the door. I aslo used my diamond wet blade little skilsaw from harbor freight. All cutting was done outdoors to avoid dust and then mud. I washed the panels off after cutting to remove the dust.
    Bill D.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I do it the way that JKJ mentioned up above...carefully measuring and cutting prior to installing. That said, I've since switched to surface mount for anything I've added or changed. If I built a new shop, other than some 120v convenience outlets that might be in the space regardless of use, I'd go surface mount conduit/raceway for sure because of the flexibility. I've made quite a few changes over the years in my shop so I know it would happen in the future, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    This doesn’t answer your question, but when I built my shop the electrician suggested surface mounted boxes and conduit.

    I’m really glad I did that makes adding, adapting circuits a snap.

    Plus (to your question) no box cutting out!
    Another vote for surface mount.

    Got an outlet two feet too far away? Move it. Real simple.

    Got a pipe, but need a different voltage? Pull it.

    Think ahead, pipes crashing into stuff is a pain.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Colorado Springs
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    Thanks everyone. When I wrote Sawzall I actually meant to say Multi tool. Seems like this might also be a good option vs a jig saw, esp using the Blindmark system.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
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    You didn't say what kind of shop you're talking about - stand-alone, garage, basement... I believe code in most places doesn't allow plywood or similar on walls shared with the main living space of the house. For fire safety reasons, this needs to be drywall - and 5/8 drywall if its a wall shared with a garage. Maybe it's not this way in CO, but I think this is pretty universal.

    In my garage, which is attached to the house, I have the 5/8 drywall on the shared wall and 1/2 ply on the other walls. I like being able to hang things wherever I want. I also hate working with drywall.

    All the outlets I have added have been surface mounted EMT and boxes. This is very easy to do and very flexible. I would for sure do this again.
    Last edited by Brian W Evans; 01-01-2019 at 7:16 PM. Reason: Added preference for EMT


  13. #13
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    Apr 2013
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    I used a Rotozip on the 13/16" OSB that my shop walls are lined with. It was a lot slower than with drywall, of course, but worked well. & was faster than measuring & pre-cutting the holes.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian W Evans View Post
    You didn't say what kind of shop you're talking about - stand-alone, garage, basement... I believe code in most places doesn't allow plywood or similar on walls shared with the main living space of the house. For fire safety reasons, this needs to be drywall - and 5/8 drywall if its a wall shared with a garage. Maybe it's not this way in CO, but I think this is pretty universal.
    It’s a detached stand alone shop.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
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    3,655
    When I've had to do it I use a jigsaw, but in my shop everything is surface mounted. I did spray foam to seal the walls in the old barn which makes running wires inside the wall harder.

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