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Thread: Fiber Laser Parameters for Glock / Pmags

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    20
    I will usually take a picture of the frame with a digital camera and then upload it into my design software...I use Corel, then using the Bezier tool I trace the outline right on top of the picture, then delete the picture and I have an outline to install whatever pattern I want...I have an account with Shutterstock that I buy vectored patterns and just have my customers pick out what they want right from the website...hope this helps

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Childers View Post
    I will usually take a picture of the frame with a digital camera and then upload it into my design software...I use Corel, then using the Bezier tool I trace the outline right on top of the picture, then delete the picture and I have an outline to install whatever pattern I want...I have an account with Shutterstock that I buy vectored patterns and just have my customers pick out what they want right from the website...hope this helps
    I do the same thing. I am just using inkacape right now. pmags i use 2 passes using cross hatch 6000 speed 16 power 70 khz. .05 line distance 90 degree. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UyCmGHBoMI there is a youtube video I uploaded. those same setings work on xbox controllers and ps4 controllers also.

    Alpha Laser-150w
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    Laser Star-80w yag laser welder
    Laser Marking Technologies
    Marksman Dominator-50w galvo fiber-raycus
    Miller Snycrowave 350 LX
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    erakote applicator
    Clausing-8520 milling machine
    South Bend-Lathe


  3. #18
    Great work!

  4. #19
    IMG_1615.jpgIMG_1617.jpgIMG_1616.jpgdid my first laser stipple on a glock and turned out nice. also did deep engraving on the top and sides of the slide for looks and grip. I am using a 50 w. I run cross hatch .08mm line space single line hatch. 2 loops so a total of 4 with cross hatch. 500mm/s 20% power and 50khz. also did the cerakote on the polymer frame. also using inkscape to draw everything then convert to dxf and then to ez cad. works great!

    Alpha Laser-150w
    yag laser welder
    Laser Star-80w yag laser welder
    Laser Marking Technologies
    Marksman Dominator-50w galvo fiber-raycus
    Miller Snycrowave 350 LX
    C
    erakote applicator
    Clausing-8520 milling machine
    South Bend-Lathe


  5. #20
    Nice work!

  6. #21
    Hey guys!
    I have done glock stippling aswell, used settings I found in this thread (speed 500, power 40%, fq 30kHz, hatch 0.08mm - 30w fiber), what do you guys think about the outcome? I am very satisfied with my first try
    IMG_7287.jpgIMG_7288.jpg

    But now I am trying to engrave FDE and OLIVE Glock frame, not getting good results. Have you guys figured that out? Could somebody care to share settings for non-black Glocks? Would be much appreciated!
    Aliexpress 30W Fiber Laser - seems to work fine I have so many ideas, but so little time to play

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Suwanee, GA
    Posts
    3,686
    I don't think you could ask for better results, that came out great!

    I don't have any suggestions for the fde and olive, but I'm pretty sure it's whatever they use for coloring that is reacting, or not reacting, with the fiber.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vasek Matyska View Post
    Hey guys!
    I have done glock stippling aswell, used settings I found in this thread (speed 500, power 40%, fq 30kHz, hatch 0.08mm - 30w fiber), what do you guys think about the outcome? I am very satisfied with my first try
    IMG_7287.jpgIMG_7288.jpg

    But now I am trying to engrave FDE and OLIVE Glock frame, not getting good results. Have you guys figured that out? Could somebody care to share settings for non-black Glocks? Would be much appreciated!

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Vasek Matyska View Post
    Hey guys!
    I have done glock stippling aswell, used settings I found in this thread (speed 500, power 40%, fq 30kHz, hatch 0.08mm - 30w fiber)
    Gosh darn it. I've been having issues with stippling my M&P for a while and posted on a facebook group (dedicated to laser stippling) asking for advice and literally was told "we don't share our settings here because you don't want someone to take your business" even though I'm only doing this for fun. So, I bought a "decommissioned" Glock grip for $25 off of GunBroker last week to test on (just arrived in the mail today). In between now and then I saw your post and your shared settings and tested them on the black grip I just bought. They worked great.

    That's my long way of telling you "Thank you!". Even if these exact settings don't work on my M&P, I now have a solid starting point and that makes a world of difference. I truly appreciate it.
    Licensed Professional Engineer,
    Unlicensed Semi Professional Tinkerer

  9. #24
    Well, bugger. The 500/40%/30 settings worked great on the defunct Glock frame I purchased, but melted and bubbled my M&P Shield frame. I tried another 20 or so combinations of settings on my M&P and found some great ones for bright foaming marks (3000/40%/30 and 1500/10%/30), but nothing that vaporized as the Glock did.

    Searched the internet to see what polymers each was made out of-- Glock is supposedly a "Nylon 6/6" based polymer with glass fibers and my M&P is "Zytel" (which is mostly "nylon 66" and includes some DuPont resin, nylon 6, and 610 plus glass fibers as per Wikipedia). Who knows how close the two polymers are to each other, but they sure behave different. With all of the settings I tried, I was sure I'd find one frame to by nylon and the other HDPE or some completely different plastic.

    I did search the internet to find laser stippled M&P's and found evidence of two. One guy's video look like he sanded it smooth, then bubbled up his design. The second was only a picture from a company's Twitter account (so no video to guess settings) and definitely removed/vaporized plastic (instead of bubbling it up), but the quality looks terrible. Rough edges, poor alignment, and just not a crisp look. I don't know how much of that was operator/designer, but it doesn't look that great if you pay attention. There are some tidbits that make me nearly 100% sure they used a laser, but the terrible results almost had me convinced they did it by hand initially.

    So, I'll halt things for tonight. I may see if I can find a different design that will look great as a white/light tan, or maybe I'll try to mimic the terrible results on the Glock so I can see how to adjust them to get back to good results (and maybe that'll transfer over to how to get good results on the M&P? I have my doubts).
    Licensed Professional Engineer,
    Unlicensed Semi Professional Tinkerer

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