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Thread: Setting up a new woodworking shop - have some questions

  1. #1

    Setting up a new woodworking shop - have some questions

    Hi all,
    Love the support here. I am not new to DIY stuff, but I am (relatively) new to woodworking. I am about to get to setting up shop and have some questions.

    1. Dust Extraction:
    Working with my Dad for a lot of years the idea of dust extraction was nearly non-existent. Simply using a Craftsman Wet/Dry vac to clean up after was all we did. I'd like to do better than that of course! At least initially will not be able to afford a full on dust extraction/collection system, so I figured I'd do a dust cyclone and a vacuum. My question is this: Will a decent wet/dry vac (like a Ridgid 6HP/14 Gallon) coupled with a dust cyclone (like the Dust Deputy) work or do I really need to spring for one of the fancy dust extraction vacuums (like the Festool, Fein or Makita ones)?

    2. Track Saw
    Having used a circular saw for a number of years, I have found this out....I cannot cut a straight line to save my life (even with a straight edge clamped to the work piece). So...a track saw is in order for breaking down sheet goods and cutting off ends of uneven glue ups. Two questions: A. How often does one cut something deeper than 2-1/8"? and B. For the hobbyist who does not mind spending a bit extra for good quality tools, is there really that much difference between the Makita SP6000J and the Festool TS55?

    3. Router Table
    Have seen quite a lot of videos on YouTube, I think it's best if I create my own router table top and use a router lift. The question: I'm seriously considering an Incra fence for this table. Is that overkill? How often do you really need repeatable router table cuts?

    4. Table Saw
    My Dad is going to give me his Early 90s era Delta contractor table saw. I have a lot of questions on this. I do intend on putting an Incra TS-LS 32 table saw fence on it.
    A. Is 1.75 HP enough for making most types of cabinetry?
    B. Since it's only 1.75HP, should I use a thin-kerf saw blade (thinking of the Ridge Carbide TS2000 Ultra 3/32" ATB 48 Tooth combo blade)
    C. Is it worth it to make a splitter since this doesn't have a riving knife?
    D. Is it worth it to get one of those segmented motor belts?
    E. It's a right tilt arbor, I see that a lot of saws are left tilt, does that really make any difference?

    5. Jointer/Planer
    Which one do I need first? For the planer, pretty much settled on the DeWalt DW735x, but which reasonably priced jointer should I look for?

    6. Spindle/Disk sander
    Anyone have some recommendations for these?

    7. Band Saw
    What sort of things should I look for in a mid-level band saw? Any recommendations?

  2. #2
    What’s your budget for all this? That’s the most important question between “fantasy list” and reality.

    Erik

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,926
    Nice to meet you Marcus. I'll try and give you some answers as a place to start.


    Quote Originally Posted by Marcus Waddell View Post
    Hi all,
    Love the support here. I am not new to DIY stuff, but I am (relatively) new to woodworking. I am about to get to setting up shop and have some questions.

    1. Dust Extraction:
    Working with my Dad for a lot of years the idea of dust extraction was nearly non-existent. Simply using a Craftsman Wet/Dry vac to clean up after was all we did. I'd like to do better than that of course! At least initially will not be able to afford a full on dust extraction/collection system, so I figured I'd do a dust cyclone and a vacuum. My question is this: Will a decent wet/dry vac (like a Ridgid 6HP/14 Gallon) coupled with a dust cyclone (like the Dust Deputy) work or do I really need to spring for one of the fancy dust extraction vacuums (like the Festool, Fein or Makita ones)?

    If you're going to stick with a vacuum, until you can get a stand alone DC unit, then no, there isn't much difference if you are planning to put a separator in between the vacuum and the pickup. Rigid has come a long way with their vacuums in the past 10 years.

    2. Track Saw
    Having used a circular saw for a number of years, I have found this out....I cannot cut a straight line to save my life (even with a straight edge clamped to the work piece). So...a track saw is in order for breaking down sheet goods and cutting off ends of uneven glue ups. Two questions: A. How often does one cut something deeper than 2-1/8"? and B. For the hobbyist who does not mind spending a bit extra for good quality tools, is there really that much difference between the Makita SP6000J and the Festool TS55?

    A.-Not often, and it takes a very powerful saw to do it in solid lumber.
    B.- I don't know anything about the Makita, but they have been very well received here on the forum. I have the Festool TS75, a step bigger than the TS55, and it does what it supposed to do, but it's $$$$. Festool's big sales hook is dust collectin and system integration. If the Makita has sufficient dust collection capability, then it seems like it should be a comparable alternative to the TS55

    3. Router Table
    Have seen quite a lot of videos on YouTube, I think it's best if I create my own router table top and use a router lift. The question: I'm seriously considering an Incra fence for this table. Is that overkill? How often do you really need repeatable router table cuts?

    Incra is not overkill. They make really nice stuff. Repeatable cuts on a router are paramount to success. You always need the router to be predictable and repeatable, every time.

    4. Table Saw
    My Dad is going to give me his Early 90s era Delta contractor table saw. I have a lot of questions on this. I do intend on putting an Incra TS-LS 32 table saw fence on it.
    A. Is 1.75 HP enough for making most types of cabinetry? Absolutely.
    B. Since it's only 1.75HP, should I use a thin-kerf saw blade (thinking of the Ridge Carbide TS2000 Ultra 3/32" ATB 48 Tooth combo blade) Not unless you feel the need. My two table saws are 1-1/2HP and 2HP, both can run full kerf blades.
    C. Is it worth it to make a splitter since this doesn't have a riving knife?Definitely!!and there are many aftermarket alternatives available also.
    D. Is it worth it to get one of those segmented motor belts?Yes, if you have vibration issues, they can quiet things down substantially.
    E. It's a right tilt arbor, I see that a lot of saws are left tilt, does that really make any difference?No, not really. I have both and don't see any distinct advantage either way.

    5. Jointer/Planer
    Which one do I need first? For the planer, pretty much settled on the DeWalt DW735x, but which reasonably priced jointer should I look for?A jointing sled can be made for a planer allowing it to perform both functions. You will still need a way to joint the edge, such as the track saw you asked about earlier.
    If you're going to invest in a jointer, get an 8" minimum. A 6" jointer is very limiting, I have one, and they do not resell for very much used when you finally get a bigger one. You'll get more money back, and a quicker resell, with an 8" jointer.


    6. Spindle/Disk sander
    Anyone have some recommendations for these?

    7. Band Saw
    What sort of things should I look for in a mid-level band saw? Any recommendations? Very subjective question. I would say start out with some type of 14" band saw, and you'll find your way soon enough. Band saw discussions can go on forever
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 12-28-2018 at 1:37 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  4. #4
    For beginner dust collection I'd recommend a small dust collector. I started with a Delta Shopmaster DC. It was good enough to keep up with my 20" J/P as long as I kept the hose really short. I rolled it around to whatever machine I was working on and was happy with the results. Ofcourse, it needed to be emptied often. Vacuums just don't move enough volume for most stationary machines.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Fargo North Dakota
    Posts
    352
    Check out Grizzly tools. For a hobbiest they are plenty good. It’s the minor things like flimsy switches and cords, poor fit and finish, leaks, and plastic knobs that separate them from other brands. If that doesn’t bother you the functionality is just fine.

    Maybe think about skipping the separate jointer planer and go with a combo. You’d still have a 12” planer but gain a 12” jointer.

    A shop vac with separator would be good enough for you now but adding a planer you’d need to step up.

    By the way #6 Grizzly makes just the thing a 12” disc sander and spindle sander combo. Metal is better than plastic that the bench top ones are made of.
    My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Northeast Ohio
    Posts
    582
    The Harbor Freight 2hp dust collector seems to be one of their “jewels”. I own one and have been happy with it. It is $210 regular but you should be able to easily find a 20% off coupon making it quite reasonable. I added the Thien baffle to it.

    Www dot jpthien dot com

  7. #7
    It really does depend. I have some $$ already set aside for the Table Saw fence and Router Table. I already have a router and will likely also get my Dad's Band Saw and Drill Press. So it's a matter of what is really the best tool for the job at a reasonable budget (all my tools can't start off as Festools. )

  8. #8
    I got so sick of dealing with dust and my little shop vac. I had no dust collection at the tool, I would just sweep it all up later. I upgraded to a jet dust collector and set up some overhead piping with 4” pvc, flexible hoses and connections. So much nicer and less clean up later. It makes being in the shop more enjoyable, IMO.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    281
    I'll try to be brief.
    1. When I built my shop I purchased a ClearVu cyclone. That may have been my best purchase to date. If you are getting serious about woodworking, dust collection cannot be overlooked. A wet/dry vac simply will not do. Most experts agree hobbyist woodworkers have more lung type issues due to dust than professional shops. Why? Because many do not collect fine particulate. Vaccuum systems are inefficient and get less and less efficient as soon as they start to pick up dust. A cyclone is the only serious way to truly collect dust....but a decent vacuum system will be better than a shop vac.

    2. Save your money and get the Makita. There will be a lot of opinions on this and I own Festool tools...I am sure the Festool track saw is better but the Makita is a fine machine and I absolutely love mine. Use the saved cash towards your dust collection and get the Makita.

    3. Depends on who you ask I guess...I've built two tables and have never needed a mico adjuster on my fence. It is simple to repeat cuts and reposition fence as long as it is square and is a two piece fence that you can adjust in and out toward the bit. Overkill IMO. Woodpecker has a decent fence that was reasonable when I bought mine.

    4. More Horsepower is always going to be better IMO, but you dont have to spend a lot of money for a decent saw. A riving knife is nice to have. I prefer left tilt saws because the blade tips away from the fence and reduces the chance of kickback on angled cuts. I will say, angled cuts in my shop are overrated though...I simply dont use the table saw in that way very much...but when I do, I am glad it tilts to the left. I own a Grizzly cabinet saw. It has the Leeson motor (USA) I've never changed the belt..it has a nice big flat table with large cast iron extension wings. Those features along with the riving knife and HP make it do everything I've needed it to do. It was a good purchase.

    5. You need a good jointer IMO. The smallest I would ever settle for is an 8". Why? Anything smaller just doesn't have the capacity for most of my face jointing applications, the beds are usually not long enough on a 6" jointer and as small as they are, they don't have enough weight to do any large material...they're easy to push around.
    The 8" jointers (grizzly has one..I'm not pushing them just if you're budget conscious) have longer beds which is important. The jointer IMO is one of the most important machines in the wood shop.

    6. No recommendation here.

    7. Loaded question. I bought mine not knowing what I was going to use it for. Turns out, most of my work on a bandsaw is resawing. If that is your case, I would look for a 16" machine. Most of the 14" are small saws...I have a Laguna 14 SE which is a full size bandsaw and nothing like the 14" Deltas or PMs of old. If I did it over I would get a 16" machine. If you are doing smaller projects the Delta 14" and the like would be fine. Many use those in bigger shops for bigger projects and can operate them better than I can mine, but I mostly just resaw.

    Last - wire every machine you can to 220v. And wire your shop accordingly.

  10. #10
    My 2 cents.

    1-A seperator is reasonable. But, I’d hold off on a high end vacuum for a while. A larger dust collection system is a different story.
    2-I like my TS 75. I’m sure other brands work just as well.
    3- I went without a router lift for close to 10 years. I recently got one, and I love it. It makes height adjustments much easier. I don’t have any firsthand experience with the Incra router fence. I think they’re attractive, but not necessary for everyone. I’d like to own one, but you don’t need one to get started. I’d argue that it’s best to start with a simple table set up and add accessories as your work requires it. Then again, I have 3 router tables. So, don’t listen to me.

    4-I’d skip the Incra fence until you’re sure you have the saw that you want a long term relationship with. I started with a 1.75 HP Sawstop PCS. I was happy, but not content. I upgraded to a 3HP motor. I don’t have any complaints, but would gladly upgrade to a 5 HP.

    A- You should be able to build cabinets with the 1.75HP motor. You might wish for a more powerful motor, but the one you have is fine for getting started. I think other features of the saw will have a greater impact on your ability to build cabinets than just the size of the motor. You’ll want some kind of sliding table or cross cut sled for wider cross cuts. I’m not familiar with your specific saw. I can’t advise suitable accessories in this category. Generally speaking, a saw with more surface area will make this easier.

    B- Individual preference.
    C- Yes.
    D-It depends on the condition of the current belt. If it’s in good shape, it’s not necessary.

    5-I started with a 6” jointer from Craigslist and a 735X. I later upgraded to a 16” jointer, and 20” planer. My experience with the 735X was positive.

    6- I’d forgo this type of tool and redirect funds to table saw, jointer, or bandsaw. If you need one further down the road, you’ll know for sure.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Davis, CA
    Posts
    278
    Working in a woodshop without a dust monitor is going to shorten the life of your lungs. Spend $200 on a Dylos DC1100 Standard Laser Air Quality Monitor


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,879
    easiest way to run a dust collector is to run the exhaust outside and use no filter to get plugged up. Is it cold enough in Scotland to worry about lost heat from the shop? Or will you only work on warmer days.
    Bil lD

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rochester, Minn
    Posts
    228
    "The nice thing about standards is that you have so many to choose from." A. Tannenbaum
    Opinions will have the same fluidity, but I'll add my own.

    1. I have a full dust system and really like it, but for some tools more than others: the radial arm saw was my worst dust generator, the band saw one of the least. I got a used system so spent a lot less than many ($850 for 5HP Oneida cyclone and all the piping). I would concur with the Harbor Freight recommendation for those tools that need more airflow (table saw) or can generate a lot of product (planer), and a shop vac + separator for things like a random orbital sander.

    2. I have the EZ track saw system. Even that cheaper alternative is a huge positive. Now that I understand how useful a track saw is, If doing it again I'd likely step up to the Makita.

    3. I have an Incra fence for the router table. It's big benefits is that it is easy to move away and then back to the original setting. To get a clean edge on nearly anything I start by taking a medium bite, then smaller, then that last 1mm to the finish (I have the metric scaled one); sneaking up really helps prevent chip out. If I were organized enough that I never had to go back and do just one more piece this wouldn't be such a big deal, but that hasn't happened yet. The issue seems to come up a lot less on the table saw.

    4. I have a 1940's Unisaw with a 1HP motor. I rarely bog it down unless a board starts to close back up on the blade (or I was too hurried to put the proper blade on for a rip of thick lumber). When a board does close up I like the fact that I'm stronger than the motor so that it stalls rather than throwing a board across the shop.

    5. A 6" jointer works most of the time, since I am mostly jointing edges. I have an older Yates 6" which takes up little space, along with a combo jointer/planer. It's nice not to have to switch the latter as often.

    6. If you can get an edge sander (watch Craigslist) you will use it 10 times for each use of the spindle or disk. I had heard the adage that an edge sander is "one of the last tools you'll buy, but one of the last you will sell". It's true.

    7. Bandsaw: it really depends on what you will be doing. I went many years with a Walker-Turner 14" and it served me well. I now have a larger one too (26" Moak) and only a few task would be done equally well on both. This is a case where more thought on exactly what you will be doing is important.

    Last note. You say "I am not new to DYI stuff". It's not for everyone, but most of my larger tools were purchased used. Most got new bearings and not much else (a coat of paint for some). If you enjoy that part of the process (and I did) you can get a lot of machine for the money. I won't argue about whether my older cast iron is more or less functional than newer stuff, but I almost certainly have the edge in tonnage :-) I go both ways wrt utility: I love the Unisaw and Ekstrom-Carlson edge sander, for instance. The Solem planer was built like a tank and gave a good finish, but setting knives in it was a royal PITA: I sold it and now have a Minimax with tersa blades.






  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Lazz View Post
    Last - wire every machine you can to 220v. And wire your shop accordingly.
    Why should I do that?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    281
    Your machines will run more efficiently and it will save you money.

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