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Thread: Masking off glass

  1. #1
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    Masking off glass

    I finished my china hutch with shellac and wax. I used masking tape to prevent the shellac from getting on the glass, but when I peeled off the tape, shellac had creeped under the tape. I am cleaning off the glass with ethyl alcohol, but it is a pain. Any way to prevent this in the future, any "better" tapes or techniques?close up hutch.jpg

  2. #2
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    Maybe lighter coats of shellac so it doesn't drip, or spray it? I use the Zinsser shellac rattle cans all the time. Despite the quick drying time it's easy to get runs on vertical surfaces. Lighter passes should solve the problem. I've never had luck wiping on shellac. Beautiful hutch, by the way.

  3. #3
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    Mark, the glass normally isn't installed until after all the finishing is done. Glass by its nature needs to be removable anyway, so typically it's installed from the back after finishing, often with finished wood strips that are mechanically fastened using 23 gage pins or some other removable method that allows for future "maintenance" when someone puts a baseball through a panel or something...

    BTW, try a razor blade to remove any finish from the glass. If you are careful, you can scrape right up to the edges without touching the wood.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
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    I agree with Jim. I built a curio cabinet many years ago with glass on the front and sides and the glass was the last thing installed. I took the piece to a glass company and had them do the installation. It wasn't too much more expensive than just buying the glass.

    DSC_0015_D80_01.jpg

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bennett Ostroff View Post
    Maybe lighter coats of shellac so it doesn't drip, or spray it? I use the Zinsser shellac rattle cans all the time. Despite the quick drying time it's easy to get runs on vertical surfaces. Lighter passes should solve the problem. I've never had luck wiping on shellac. Beautiful hutch, by the way.
    Thanks Bennett!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Mark, the glass normally isn't installed until after all the finishing is done. Glass by its nature needs to be removable anyway, so typically it's installed from the back after finishing, often with finished wood strips that are mechanically fastened using 23 gage pins or some other removable method that allows for future "maintenance" when someone puts a baseball through a panel or something...

    BTW, try a razor blade to remove any finish from the glass. If you are careful, you can scrape right up to the edges without touching the wood.
    Thanks Jim, good information.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Art Mann View Post
    I agree with Jim. I built a curio cabinet many years ago with glass on the front and sides and the glass was the last thing installed. I took the piece to a glass company and had them do the installation. It wasn't too much more expensive than just buying the glass.

    DSC_0015_D80_01.jpg
    Thanks for the advice Art. That is a beautiful cabinet.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post

    BTW, try a razor blade to remove any finish from the glass. If you are careful, you can scrape right up to the edges without touching the wood.
    Jim, the razor blade works & is easier than the alcohol - thanks again.

  9. #9
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    Mark,

    I use single edge razor blades and utility knife blades for a lot things. I buy them by the bulk in handy dispensers. Both are mounted near each other on the side of a cabinet for easy use.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  10. #10
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    The "Frog" tapes (yellow or green) have an edge coating that is activated by the finish and I've found them to seal much better than masking or "blue" tape when painting, but I haven't tried them with non-water based finishes. For shellac, I'd be tempted to try using Frog tape but swiping the edge with a damp rag to activate the edge coating before applying the shellac (after allowing any moisture to dry of course). Avoiding the problem by installing the glass afterward as Jim suggested would be even better. That also allows you to get finish on the edges contacting the glass.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Mark,

    I use single edge razor blades and utility knife blades for a lot things. I buy them by the bulk in handy dispensers. Both are mounted near each other on the side of a cabinet for easy use.
    Good idea Ken

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F Franklin View Post
    The "Frog" tapes (yellow or green) have an edge coating that is activated by the finish and I've found them to seal much better than masking or "blue" tape when painting, but I haven't tried them with non-water based finishes. For shellac, I'd be tempted to try using Frog tape but swiping the edge with a damp rag to activate the edge coating before applying the shellac (after allowing any moisture to dry of course). Avoiding the problem by installing the glass afterward as Jim suggested would be even better. That also allows you to get finish on the edges contacting the glass.
    Thanks for the advice Paul

  13. #13
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    I never mask the glass. I cobble up a simple easel, so I'm always working the horizontal part at a comfortable height. The best brush I've found for cutting in glass is the Wooster Pro 2in. Chinex Thin Angle Sash Brush. The thin matters. If any gets on the glass to amount to anything, I use a sharp chisel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    I never mask the glass. I cobble up a simple easel, so I'm always working the horizontal part at a comfortable height. The best brush I've found for cutting in glass is the Wooster Pro 2in. Chinex Thin Angle Sash Brush. The thin matters. If any gets on the glass to amount to anything, I use a sharp chisel.
    I will look at that brush Tom. I guess a combination of experience, skill & confidence helps. Thanks

  15. #15
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    That's the brush variety I'd use for oil based trim enamel. But for shellac, I'd use a brush with finer bristles. In particular, artists brushes for watercolor wash. with bristles like Taklon Gold. Widths of 1 1/2" or 2" would work. They don't hold a lot of material but don't leave bristle marks, and reduce lap marks. With shellac, the key is to work FAST, never going back. Get any misses or bobbles on the next coat. Shellac dries really fast so you can sand off messes pretty quickly before proceeding with next coat.

    But on glass, removing with razor is faster and easier than masking.

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