Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 28

Thread: Air dried lumber with bug holes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Western, NY
    Posts
    63

    Air dried lumber with bug holes

    Hi all- I’ve primarily worked with kiln dried lumber, and this past week I purchased some air dried ash, poplar, and hard maple. Moisture content ranging from 11-19%. I just stacked and stickered the boards in my shop to finish their drying, and figured I would plane a board or two just to take a look at what I bought. I see some small bug holes in the sapwood of the hard maple, maybe 1/16” in diameter. I am not all that hung up on the cosmetics of the lumber but am more concerned about storing it in my basement shop and whether the bugs could still be active and be interested in the wood framing of my house. The seller claims the ash and maple have been cut and stacked outside for two years, and the poplar was a cut log for many years and was just milled recently. Should I be concerned about storing these boards in my basement? I don’t have access to a kiln and am wondering if I just wasted my time and effort getting these neatly stored in the shop. I don’t know enough about potential pests and if they would still be active.

    The poplar also has some small holes, the ask looks ok.

    I can try to post some pictures later. I appreciate any advice!

  2. #2
    Years ago i used some air dried (great deal) lumber in a job for a client's condo in Miami Beach. Realize I'm located in Delaware. This was the client's vacation spot and as such sat empty 40+ weeks a year. Long story short, after three years they discovered an infestation of powder post beetles which couldn't be remedied in the building per building rules. It was an installation so I ended up packing up, driving to miami, removing, delivering to an exterminator, and reinstalling the entire job on my own dollar. I'm very skittish about where I'll buy lumber from now, i definitely would be weary of storing questionable material in my home.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,734
    I've had the same issue occasionally with lots of different lumber I've milled and air dried. Maple, ash, even the sapwood of walnut. I've never had any problems when I brought it into my shop after air drying to 12 - 14%. But I'm not saying you shouldn't be concerned nor do nothing about it either. You could easily treat the lumber you have with Timbor and that will kill any beetles or larvae that may still be present.

    John

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,039
    I've treated a lot of old house timbers with Boracare. If I'm remembering right, Timbor only goes into the surface a little, whereas Boracare is supposed to go deeper. I've never noticed any staining, but never used it on any wood that would be finished, so don't really know the effects.

    If you can get it to 140 degrees F for five hours, that's supposed to kill any insects in it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,517
    Get it out of your shop immediately! The only totally accepted method of complete sterilization is heat. The center of the wood must reach 133 degrees. Here is the latest requirements to ship ash to Europe, so you see the exacting process required to sterilize the wood. Also be aware that tiny holes on the surface were just the exit holes. You likely still have eggs and larvae in the wood. You will also have a matrix of tunnels inside the wood. Those sections are completely ruined
    * 10% or less in MC
    * Dry bulb temperature must reach 160 degrees F for 20 hours minimum.
    * Lumber must be debarked, small residual pieces less than the size of a credit card are acceptable.
    * Lumber drying time of 14 days, this includes air drying time.
    * Lumber must be stenciled with KD - HT on both ends of the packs. (bottom right corner)
    * Treatment durations, dry and wet bulb temperatures, and final moisture contents will be recorded for each specific lot, and maintained for a minimum of 3 years.

  6. #6
    Best way to rid yourself of beetle infested wood is to burn it. Burning kills beetles.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    black river falls wisconsin
    Posts
    933
    i would get it dried. i bought some wormy oak from guy that was selling his dads wood that was in a barn for 20 years stacked. I stacked in my wood shed and one day looked between the stickers and seen some powder lines.... that wood was taken to kiln and dried.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rochester, Minn
    Posts
    232
    You need to heat treat it, but you can do that yourself if you want. Sticker the wood and build an insulated box around it: insulation board and tape. Since the wood is mostly dry the full facilities of a kiln are not needed. If you google "dehumidification kiln" there is a modest literature on drying your own lumber, and those folks have to finish off with a heating step. Fortunately, once the wood is below 10% that last step consists of a small electric heater, a box fan to ensure there are no cold spots, and a thermostat.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,517
    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Therneau View Post
    You need to heat treat it, but you can do that yourself if you want. Sticker the wood and build an insulated box around it: insulation board and tape. Since the wood is mostly dry the full facilities of a kiln are not needed. If you google "dehumidification kiln" there is a modest literature on drying your own lumber, and those folks have to finish off with a heating step. Fortunately, once the wood is below 10% that last step consists of a small electric heater, a box fan to ensure there are no cold spots, and a thermostat.
    Unfortunately small electric heaters and box fans will not survive in 150 degree insulated boxes. Nearly every box fan now have plastic blades, electric heaters have plastic parts and not the capacity to reach 150.

  10. #10
    Huh. Is this situation common, and is it as dire as some of you are saying?

    (I'm worried as I had an ash tree sawed, stacked it in an old barn for a few years to dry, and just now moved it all to my shop. Didn't give bugs any real thought, until now...)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,775
    I also don’t worry too much about a few bugs holes. I like working with air dried wood too much .
    One year I did get some Cedar and pine from Lake Arrowhead that had Carpenter bees in it.
    In the spring I would do battle as they emerged. I found they were living in some boards I used for shelves in the gardening shed.
    They would fly around my shop and sometimes dive at me. I made a special paddle stick just for the occasion
    Aj

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,517
    I'm not exaggerating! I bought a bandsaw mill and cut almost every weekend from a municipal landscape dump. Stacked and stickered for years and then hauled it all to my Mom's farm and tight stacked it there. I had to move her to assisted living in March 2017. Had to clean out the shed and discovered that everything but walnut and catalpa had some level of infestation. I sent 16" wide soft maple to the burn pile. First I tried trimming and cutting out the damage. It was so extensive. As a matter of fact, ash was the worst. It must be like candy to PPB. I was just heart broken. I had sold the mill, and with good fortune sold it for $300 than I paid for it. So not a real dollar loss, but my retirement supply of lumber was destroyed. I also have lost turning blanks stored in my garage. After extensive reading about what went wrong, I found that even kiln dried can be infested again. The beetle can still lay eggs. Moral to my story is only get the wood that you can work for each job. No long term storage.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southwest Virginia
    Posts
    277
    It's definitely bad when it happens. I bought some cherry a few years ago that had been kiln dried, but then stacked in a barn for years. It had been re-infested at some point. I had to unstack my whole pile of lumber and treat it outside before moving it back in. It was a serious pain.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Western, NY
    Posts
    63
    Alright- thanks for much for the advice. The lumber is moved outside until I rethink a sterilization strategy.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rochester, Minn
    Posts
    232
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Unfortunately small electric heaters and box fans will not survive in 150 degree insulated boxes. Nearly every box fan now have plastic blades, electric heaters have plastic parts and not the capacity to reach 150.
    Actually, 150 is not all that hot for a piece of plastic -- the inside of a parked car can get to 172 (Centers for Disease Control). Though I will agree that the quality of a box fan from the big box stores is poor. But I'll find out how myself in a few weeks, since I am going to employ the method once the holiday rush is over) Those who do this seriously use an attic fan.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •