HF Multifunction tool vs Makita cordless & apologies to Fein users...

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I'm on the verge of buying one of these things, never used one. With the proper blade, will they cut through a 3/8" stainless steel bolt?

Yes, eventually. Probably use several blades too. A sawzall with a milwaukee "torch" metal blade will do it significantly faster, or better yet a plasma cutter...

[Van Huskey]

I'm on the verge of buying one of these things, never used one. With the proper blade, will they cut through a 3/8" stainless steel bolt?

Back in the summer, I cut six 1/2" SS bolts off my neighbor's boat for him, someone didn't use SS nuts and that had become "welded". Where they were at it was just impossible to get sufficient torque to break them loose even soaked with Liquid Wrench. There was no way to get a larger tool to the bolts so the multi-tool was the tool. I used 4 bi-metal Imperial blades to get the job done, partly because of the confined space I could not move the blade much so I was only using the center teeth. As a result, it was an expensive fix but one he would have paid 5 times as much to get done. The key here is with proper access to the bolt there are tons of "better" ways to cut one and most of them will be cheaper. In general, the multi-tools shouldn't be the first choice of a cutting tool but more like the last line of defense prior to snapping and going the sledge hammer route.

[johnny means]

So what's the deal with blade prices, anyway. I've bought hundreds of blades for all manner of machine and have never run into anything even remotely close to multi tool blades in price per cut.

[Nick Decker]

Back in the summer, I cut six 1/2" SS bolts off my neighbor's boat for him, someone didn't use SS nuts and that had become "welded". Where they were at it was just impossible to get sufficient torque to break them loose even soaked with Liquid Wrench. There was no way to get a larger tool to the bolts so the multi-tool was the tool. I used 4 bi-metal Imperial blades to get the job done, partly because of the confined space I could not move the blade much so I was only using the center teeth. As a result, it was an expensive fix but one he would have paid 5 times as much to get done. The key here is with proper access to the bolt there are tons of "better" ways to cut one and most of them will be cheaper. In general, the multi-tools shouldn't be the first choice of a cutting tool but more like the last line of defense prior to snapping and going the sledge hammer route.

Access to the bolts in question is why I think this is the right tool. My project isn't a boat, it's a toilet, and I may be looking at a similar situation of someone putting regular nuts on SS bolts (can't even get my head in position to confirm that). Won't budge, and it laughs at PB Blaster and heat. I'm hoping to avoid the sledge hammer solution, so at this point a multitool and blades look pretty cheap.

[Lee Schierer]

Access to the bolts in question is why I think this is the right tool. My project isn't a boat, it's a toilet, and I may be looking at a similar situation of someone putting regular nuts on SS bolts (can't even get my head in position to confirm that). Won't budge, and it laughs at PB Blaster and heat. I'm hoping to avoid the sledge hammer solution, so at this point a multitool and blades look pretty cheap.

I just used a multi-tool for that exact purpose. It worked great. Be sure to use the Bimetal metal cutting blades. It took longer to coil up the cord and put the tool away than it did to cut the two bolts. Ear protection is highly recommended.

[Nick Decker]

Excellent, thanks Lee. Do you remember what brand blades you used?

I'm looking at a cordless Milwaukee bare tool for about $50, since I've got Milwaukee batteries.

[Jim Dwight]

The one Bosch blade that I've found is definitely better is the carbide blade for cutting metal. If you need to cut a large bolt, you should get one of those blades. I've only cut framing nails with it but it cut those as fast as a reciprocating saw. I'm sure on a big bolt it would be slower. I have a HF, a cordless Ryobi, and a Fein. The Ryobi and HF cut at about the same speed. I use the Ryobi to make holes in drywall. Any tool would do it and the lack of a cord is nice. The Fein cuts faster than the other tools because it has a larger stroke and is also better made. I got the Festool plunge base and used it on the Fein to cut a square hole in a stair tread (5/4 oak) for a post. Works nice.

I also leave it in the drawer most weeks (all three of them) but when I need them, for serious work the Fein comes out but for simple things, usually it's the Ryobi.

[Rich Engelhardt]

My project isn't a boat, it's a toilet, and I may be looking at a similar situation of someone putting regular nuts on SS bolts

These work really well for frozen nuts.

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-...p-00904772000P

On toilets, I always just drag out the Harbor Freight 4.5" angle grinder with a metal cutoff wheel on it.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-i...der-69645.html

[Van Huskey]

For toilet bolts, you can cut them off with a Dremel and cutoff wheel. For me, it is easier to prevent damage to the toilet since it is easier to control.

[Nick Decker]

The bolts I'm dealing with aren't the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor. They're the ones holding the seat and one of those plastic riser things that make the seat sit higher. The toilet itself sits in a very tight area, vanity on one side, wall on the other. I can't even get my head in/under there, so everything is done by feel.

My plan is to cut through the plastic riser thing to get to and cut the bolt, without breaking any porcelain. I'm thinking a multitool with a long blade would work, and I found out last night my brother-in-law has one I can borrow.

Sorry for steering this away from woodworking, but I figured there were folks around here much handier than me with this stuff.

[Van Huskey]

The bolts I'm dealing with aren't the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor. They're the ones holding the seat and one of those plastic riser things that make the seat sit higher. The toilet itself sits in a very tight area, vanity on one side, wall on the other. I can't even get my head in/under there, so everything is done by feel.

My plan is to cut through the plastic riser thing to get to and cut the bolt, without breaking any porcelain. I'm thinking a multitool with a long blade would work, and I found out last night my brother-in-law has one I can borrow.

Sorry for steering this away from woodworking, but I figured there were folks around here much handier than me with this stuff.

Dude, that is gonna. Good luck. Let us know how that one goes. If it were me I would probably pull the toilet to work on it.

[John K Jordan]

I think a good multi tool is one of those things you might not know you need until you have one.

I bought the Fein years ago and have used it on things I'm not sure how I'd do otherwise - special cuts on PVC pipe, trim in tight spots, cutting bolts and things, tile with carbide blade, fitting trim when installing siding, cuts in plywood and sheet rock where I couldn't use a blade that would protrude through the other side, power sanding in tight places.

The Fein was expensive but I prefer to buy quality and never look back. I like the cord - must be over 12' . The blades are expensive but last a long time if not abused. I look for good deals on Amazon.

JKJ

[Lee Schierer]

I'm away from home so I can't check. Most likely it was a Bosch but many of their blades don't seem to be available.

[Rich Engelhardt]

For toilet bolts, you can cut them off with a Dremel and cutoff wheel.

I tried that. Way too expensive. Those fragile Dremel cutoff wheels shatter at the drop of a hat. I've gone through a half dozen of those wheels on one brass toilet bolt.
I'm convinced that's why they come packed in such a large quantity! (20 per pack..)
The HF 4.5" metal cutting wheels are great & a pack of 10 lasts a long, long time. Plus they are worlds tougher.

The only advantage I can see with a Dremel is that it can get into tighter spots. Provided the tool itself works.
IMHO - Dremel lacks any sort of quality anymore.

[Van Huskey]

I tried that. Way too expensive. Those fragile Dremel cutoff wheels shatter at the drop of a hat. I've gone through a half dozen of those wheels on one brass toilet bolt.
I'm convinced that's why they come packed in such a large quantity! (20 per pack..)

I use metal (diamond) cutoff wheels, the abrasive ones explode as soon as you put any side load on them which is almost impossible to avoid unless you are using it right in front of you on small parts.