Apron less 36" round table?

[Jared Sankovich]

Thoughts on the cleat vs apron for a small table? The "cleat" not sure what else to call it is 28"x10" and 2" thick. I don't really like the idea of an apron on a table this small and this is what I came up with. The top is just under 1" thick (and still needs a edge profile)

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[Dave Richards]

The cleat as you made it is a traditional method and is perfect for that table. Typically the cleat would run across the grain, though. And the screw holes in the outboard ends of the cleat would be elongated to allow for seasonal movement of the top.

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
How are you securing the cleat to the top? Thanks

[Jared Sankovich]

Hi,
How are you securing the cleat to the top? Thanks

My plan was to just use screws, and orient it the same as the top boards to not cause a cross grain situation. Though I could slot the holes and go across the top boards.

[Edwin Santos]

My plan was to just use screws, and orient it the same as the top boards to not cause a cross grain situation. Though I could slot the holes and go across the top boards.

I see. I asked because I didn't see them, but now I realize you're not done with the project yet. Your plan sounds good to me. I might slot the screw holes even if oriented the same as the top boards just as an insurance policy in case there is a differential in movement, but it may not be necessary. Very nice project Jared,

[Wayne Lomman]

The design concept works well but you must have the cleat crossing the grain. If you have it with the grain the top will break at the edge of the cleat the first time someone parks their butt against the table edge. Slotting the screws works with no problems. It has been done this way for centuries. Polish the top separately to the base so that the top is fully sealed and moves easily with the seasons. Cheers

[Tom Bender]

Speaking of polish, it won't hurt if you wax the top of the cleat before attaching it. Then it will move easier against the top and you can snug the screws down a bit.

[Jamie Buxton]

The design concept works well but you must have the cleat crossing the grain. If you have it with the grain the top will break at the edge of the cleat the first time someone parks their butt against the table edge. Slotting the screws works with no problems. It has been done this way for centuries. Polish the top separately to the base so that the top is fully sealed and moves easily with the seasons. Cheers

I don't think breakage is an issue. This top is hardwood which is 1" thick. The unsupported part would be something like 13" wide and 34" long. You could stand on it without splitting it.

But I do agree that running the cleat across the grain will help to keep the table top flat over the seasons. I'd glue it in the middle, and use screws in slots out at the ends.

[Jared Sankovich]

Speaking of polish, it won't hurt if you wax the top of the cleat before attaching it. Then it will move easier against the top and you can snug the screws down a bit.

That was my plan, 2 coats of Precat on the cleat and table bottom and some paste wax in between.

At this point it needs just a final sanding and finish.

I finished the edge profile, but I can't say I'm 100% happy with it.

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[Phil Mueller]

Nice looking table. I think the profile looks perfect. Well done.

[Wayne Lomman]

Apologies, but tables do break if constructed with the cleat parallel to the grain. We are talking about less than 1" thick regardless of species selected. It's a basic design principle to work to the strengths of your materials. I also don't recommend gluing any part of a table top to its frame. It is simply unnecessary work that results in a table that can't be dismantled for that one tricky move without causing destruction. Cheers

[Jared Sankovich]

I just used the domino to cut the slots 14 and 6mm
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First cost of lacquer
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[Mark Gibney]

Never thought of using the domino to cut slots for screws.
Great idea.