Bench top: Ripped 2x8s vs 2x12s

[Matthew Brawley]

IMG_2524.jpgI used 2x12's for everything on this. Not yet done but getting close.

[Noah Starksen]

Looks great! Can't wait to have something.

I'm going to be following Christ Schwarz bench in 2 days plan, but laminating my own top instead of buying the counter tops. This means I'll be using some fasteners instead of just joinery.

Don't disown me sawmill.

[Robert Engel]

For reference, 2x12's will yield more quarter and/or rift sawn boards (growth rings perpendicular or nearly so, to face). They are more desirable for their stability. Won't make any difference in the way you're building it.

If you can get 2- 3/12" wide boards from 1 2x8 I would go that way.

As with any construction grade lumber, rough cut and leave to air dry in stickers for a month or so before final milling and glue up.

Pay attention to the grain direction the same when you do your glue. Having all the boards in the same direction will make surfacing the top a much more pleasing experience!!

[Noah Starksen]

I'm just eager to move beyond my current setup. A cheap kitchen countertop on top of cabinets. Not actually mounted on the cabinets though, so when I do work I clamp them together. For planing, this is the best setup I've been able to work out. Clamping a 2x4 to the counter, then the work piece to the 2x4. Due to the lip on the counter, I can't easily clamp to it.

Having a bench that is designed to be used for this stuff will be amazing.

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[Mike Manning]

Sorry but I'm confused. Not trying to highjack Noah's thread but the responses to my question could be helpful to him. In this thread, a number of folks recommend letting the wood acclimate in the shop prior to using it for his workbench project. Several have mentioned rough cutting and stickering it and letting it acclimate before use. IIRC, one person stated that cutting it before acclimation could lead to warping, twisting, etc. By rough cutting, I assume they're talking about getting the boards cut down close (1/8"-1/4") to their final dimensions. So which is it? Let's the board acclimate in your shop before rough cutting or does it not make a difference? Let's assume we're talking about SYP purchased from one of the big box stores since that's what Noah is using and it will also be what I use to make my workbench. Thanks guys!

Good luck Noah!

[steven c newman]

Grain direction????? IF you rip the pith/center of the boards ( like the 2 x 12s) right down the middle of the pith...then rotate both halves so the pith is on the UNDERSIDE of the benchtop..then rip again to get 4 pieces from that 2 x 12. Then stand all 4 up on the ripped edge. And since all the rest of the rips will also be "standing up" Then glue up all these parts, "face grain to face grain".....would that work better?

[Noah Starksen]

Sorry but I'm confused. Not trying to highjack Noah's thread but the responses to my question could be helpful to him. In this thread, a number of folks recommend letting the wood acclimate in the shop prior to using it for his workbench project. Several have mentioned rough cutting and stickering it and letting it acclimate before use. IIRC, one person stated that cutting it before acclimation could lead to warping, twisting, etc. By rough cutting, I assume they're talking about getting the boards cut down close (1/8"-1/4") to their final dimensions. So which is it? Let's the board acclimate in your shop before rough cutting or does it not make a difference? Let's assume we're talking about SYP purchased from one of the big box stores since that's what Noah is using and it will also be what I use to make my workbench. Thanks guys!

Good luck Noah!

As a point of clarification, I’m in Seattle area. So I’ll be using doug fir, not yellow pine.

But thanks for asking. I was wondering the exact same thing.

[Tom M King]

Kiln dried framing lumber is dried so fast these days that there is all sorts of stress in it. You can keep a board for a year, and it still might turn into two bananas when you rip it. There is going to be some waste any way you do it. I'd size it to within an inch, and then let it acclimate.

[Art Mann]

If by "rough cut" someone means ripping to size or near to size newly bought framing lumber, I would advise against it unless you know the moisture content. The "KD" designation can be misleading. I let such wood dry in my hot shop loft for a couple of months. You could just start ripping a piece and watch for it to bind up but that is a little risky. If what I am warning about actually happens, you will know it soon enough. Just be careful.

[chris carter]

I would NOT let the wood acclimate because you will be laminating them together. If you let them acclimate they will twist all over the place and you'll have a ton of waste trying to mill long straight boards of out of them. I would use them as quickly as you can and get them all lalminated together. The lamination will do a good job of keeping everything straight and you'll have very little waste.

[ken hatch]

If by "rough cut" someone means ripping to size or near to size newly bought framing lumber, I would advise against it unless you know the moisture content. The "KD" designation can be misleading. I let such wood dry in my hot shop loft for a couple of months. You could just start ripping a piece and watch for it to bind up but that is a little risky. If what I am warning about actually happens, you will know it soon enough. Just be careful.

Art,

Rip, table saw, ain't going to happen in my shop that's what bandsaws are for .

ken

[Mike Manning]

There still seem to be conflicting opinions. Hopefully, more folks will chime in and in the end there might be a clear consensus. With the understanding, that which ever way you go YMMV. Fair statement?

[Pat Barry]

Grain direction????? IF you rip the pith/center of the boards ( like the 2 x 12s) right down the middle of the pith...then rotate both halves so the pith is on the UNDERSIDE of the benchtop..then rip again to get 4 pieces from that 2 x 12. Then stand all 4 up on the ripped edge. And since all the rest of the rips will also be "standing up" Then glue up all these parts, "face grain to face grain".....would that work better?

2x12 is 11 1/4 inches. 3 rip cuts as you suggest will yield only about 2 3/4 thickness rough cut. Not thick enough for a solid bench.

[Kyle Foster]

2x12 is 11 1/4 inches. 3 rip cuts as you suggest will yield only about 2 3/4 thickness rough cut. Not thick enough for a solid bench.

If you account for 1/8" kerf per cut, that makes 3 pieces at 3 5/8" rough. If you figure on another 1/8" for clean up, you can get 3 1/2" thick top. With a 2x8 being 7 1/4" and using the same assumptions, you can get 2 pieces 3 7/16 thick.

Edit: I realized that the original quote said to RIP it 3 times not 2 after I already had the math done and the response typed. My bad.

Kmf

[lowell holmes]

You might consider this top.

https://www.grainger.com/product/3MK...!g!60473762122!