Routers and the Leigh Dovetail Jig

[ChrisA Edwards]

I bought a Leigh DR4 Pro about 3 years ago, got the whole package with all the bits and stuff, but I didn't really get along with it.

So, after reading a couple of threads on here, I've decided to give it another go. My inexperience was primarily my shortcoming before, but this time I want to conquer it.

So I'm about to make some build in cabinets and would like to dovetail the drawers, many drawers.

So, based on tips on another thread, I've decided to buy two identical routers and dedicate them to use with the DR4, at least until I've finished this project.

This also coincides with the season and me not knowing what my kids and wife would like to buy Dad for Xmas.

So I'm looking for brand and model recommendations from the wise ones here. Probably looking at something around $200 per router.

Thanks

[lowell holmes]

Check Lowe's and Home Depot. They have them in the store and you can examine them to determine if you want one.

[Jim Becker]

Brand is kinda a personal favorite thing. For a fixed base router (which is what I recommend for dovetail use), I happen to use the DW618 because that's the version I have. The DW611 is also worthy. But similar routers from the 'color you like the best' will perform similarly. You really don't need variable speed for this dedicated purpose if that helps with costs.

[Tom M King]

Two 690's for me. I don't remember how old they are, but they came from the deal back when PC was giving a palm router free with each one purchased-maybe ten years ago, or so.

[Charles Lent]

I use two of my DeWalt DW618 routers when using my Leigh D4R jig. I have two of the 3 base kits, so use the D handle fixed bases, but the standard fixed bases work fine.

Take the time to center the bushing in the base using the centering cone before you start, but also mark an arrow on the tops of the router bases with a marking pen and always point this arrow toward the D4R when doing the cuts. This will further eliminate any joint errors caused by the bit being slightly off center to the guide bushing.

It's also a good idea to put a piece of tape on the top of the router motors with a drawing of the shape of the bit that's in that router, because it's easy to pick up the wrong router if you don't DAMHIKT. Using two different brands of routers would make this less of a problem, but I like the balance and light weight of the DW618's

Although the DWP611 has the power to do dovetails, it can only take 1/4" bits. For accurate dovetails it's best to use the 1/2" bits, so the routers need to be capable of using 1/2" bits. I like and use my DWP611, but not for cutting dovetails because you can get too much flexing of the bit shank when cutting dovetails with 1/4" bits.

The biggest mistake that I kept making when first using my D4R was forgetting to drop the guide back down against the wood. You will trash the piece being cut when you do this, so avoid lifting the guide if you can or make a check list that includes dropping the guide back down against the work each time before you attempt to rout the joint.

I always cut a few extra pieces to make some test joints before doing the good pieces, and make a couple of test joints to get everything adjusted, then make a few more joints after the jig and routers are all adjusted, to just get some practice if I haven't used the jig in a while.

Watch the videos on the DVD or on YouTube, Then follow the Leigh D4R manual step by step, doing exactly what it says to do and your first joint will be perfect or very nearly so. If too tight, you can make a slight adjustment and cut the joint again. It should fit perfectly this next time.

Charley

[Dan Hahr]

There's really no need to have identical routers, but it is 100% necessary to have them perfectly centered in the bushing if you are looking for a perfect fit. I used a Dewalt 621 plunge router for the straight bit since it could be easily adjusted and a PC 690 for the dovetail bit which will live there until it dulls. The main thing is having the routers dedicated to the jig until you are completely done and ready to store it. I just built 29 drawers for my kitchen and three vanities and dovetailed the fronts and backs of every drawer. It took a new set of fingers (DO NOT overtighten the screws- three finger tips will work fine) and two Jasper router baseplates to get acceptable results.

And, cut several extra pieces in every size...

Good luck with the kitchen...
Dan

[Jim Becker]

Dan, you are correct...there is no "need" for identical routers...but it can also be a comfortable thing to have two identical machines setup for dedicated dovetail use in the OP's situation. Same balance; same control placement, etc., can keep the operation comfortable and consistent. On the adjustment piece, I find fixed base routers to be easier to make very precise and tiny height adjustments as compared to most plunge routers, but that's just my own experience.

[Josko Catipovic]

PC 690's for me. They seem perfect for the job.

[Charles Lent]

Router brand or model isn't important. Use the 1/2" collet routers of your choice. Center the router bushing to the collet with the centering cone accessory and/or draw an arrow on the top of the router base and point this arrow toward the jig when routing (I do both). If there is any offset error between the guide bushing and the bit, keeping the router oriented the same direction when being used will keep any errors from affecting the quality of the joint. It will not affect the joint, but the whole joint might be slightly shifted left or right when it is cut, so the top and bottom edges of the two mating boards might not be in perfect alignment when the joint is assembled. It could be offset by whatever error that exists in the centering of the router bushing to the bit. It won't be much, usually only enough to notice. The important thing is to avoid cutting part of the joint with the router oriented one way and then finish the cut with the router oriented another way. If you do this, and the bushing is not perfectly centered to the bit, the joint will not fit together properly.

I bought two wave washers to go behind the bushing nuts to keep them from loosening during use. These were inexpensive and will last you forever if you don't misplace them.

#2903 Router Bushing Spring Washer (qty 2) $5.99 available from https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_fast_joint.html (scroll down the page to find them)


Charley

[Wayne Jolly]

I use a Bosch and a Milwaukee, but like mentioned earlier I take the time to center the bits using the centering cones.

Wayne

[Jim Becker]

The whole centering process is one of the benefits of being able to have dedicated routers for dovetail use...get it done and just check it occasionally, rather than having to do it every time one sets up to do dovetails, especially when one primarily uses the same pair of cutters for most of their work.

On cutter shank, typical bits for Leigh jigs are 8mm or 1/4" shank with the former being preferred. If the specific router doesn't offer a native 8mm collet (many do), a bushing can be used in a 1/2" collet.

[Ken Krawford]

What kind of dovetails are you going to cut? Most of the drawers I make have half blind joints and only employ a dovetail bit. In this situation, I can't envision why you'd need 2 routers. Thru dovetails are another matter.

[Tom Bain]

What kind of dovetails are you going to cut? Most of the drawers I make have half blind joints and only employ a dovetail bit. In this situation, I can't envision why you'd need 2 routers. Thru dovetails are another matter.

Ken is spot on. Only one router and one bit needed for half-blind dovetails with the D4, which are typically the style of dovetail used for drawer construction.

Out of curiosity, do most people have their jigs set up for 5/8” drawer stock, or some other thickness?

[ChrisA Edwards]

What kind of dovetails are you going to cut? Most of the drawers I make have half blind joints and only employ a dovetail bit. In this situation, I can't envision why you'd need 2 routers. Thru dovetails are another matter.

Good point, I just re-watched the 43 minute Leigh video and came to the same conclusion (dogs and cat got me up at 5:30am).


I already have a PC892, a very old PC690 and a Bosch 1617, although the 1617 sits in a router lift. I didn't mention this in my thread starter post as I wanted get unbiased brand opinions.

Right now, if I do get a second router, it will probably be the PC892.

[Jim Becker]

Since you already have the PC892, it makes sense to get a second one if you want "dualing routers" for through dovetails...