stair tread finishing

[Joe Hendershott]

I understand now. Not sure the advice they gave you was correct but that doesn't matter now. Hard to imagine a flooring place not knowing what Bona is, wow.

[joe webb]

A couple more questions:

1) How do we tell the oil-stain has completely dried. In some threads, I read we can use mineral spirit and wipe it. I tried that suggestion on a sample piece that was stained 8 ago and 90% of the color was gone. Hard to imagine it has not dried in 8 days. The wood is in my garage and it is usually between 40-60 degree F this time of the year.

2) I saw that Bona is applied w/ an applicator that looks a bit like a squeegee. how do we apply on the rounded bull nose and the under the stair tread overhang? Does it drip down?

Thanks much

[Steve Schoene]

Even 60 degrees is pretty cool for drying finishes. When you read about drying times on labels it is likely that the reference temperature was 78 degrees. Get some heat going in there for better results.

And below about 55 degrees, waterborne finishes might not ever lay down and dry, though a few are formulated for lower temps, though if so they will likely tout that on the label.

[Tom M King]

You can brush it too. Just brush it thick enough so it can flow some. The applicator is just for really covering a large area fast. I keep a helper ahead of me with a watering can pouring out a bead on the fresh edge, and we do an average sized room in a few minutes.

If you do buy an applicator, for whatever reason, they come in metal, and plastic. I have both, but use the plastic one because the "rod" that the applicator snaps on is longer than the applicator pads. I cut the plastic one so the applicator sticks past the edge a little on both ends. Like that, I can cut in the edge of the room with the applicator without having to use some other small applicator to cut in the edges.

They say the applicators are washable, but I've never had any luck getting them to work as well as they do when new after washing, so I just toss them.

[joe webb]

Thanks Steve. I am using oil-based stain. Hopefully, it dries better at cooler temperatures.

But, it sounds like you are suggesting to apply the Bona finish in the home (and not in the garage). I can do that given I read the odor is minimal. Just have to block access to the stairs an entire afternoon. Although, I don't think my central heating furnace is capable to warm the house up to 78 degree.

I am using tiles on the riser. Does it cause any problem if that drips on the grout?

[Tom M King]

I would mask the risers. It wouldn't harm anything, but I'm not sure how it will look.

[Steve Schoene]

The temperature could make a big difference, since chemical reactions are generally increase with increases in temperature. The times given on labels about curing and recoat times are often specified assuming 78 degree temps. I'd bet adding some heat could help dramatically. But shifting to a waterborne product wouldn't work better in cold conditions--often worse. Lots of waterborne products won't work at all (ie. lay down and cure) with temperatures below 55 degrees.

Like any finish, you can also use a brush to get details such as you describe. The squeegee is for large floor areas.

I don't see how you will be able to stain prior to application since even industrial processes can't get wood floor pieces precisely the same thickness, and there will always be variations in the surface to which the wood is attached--even a couple of bits of dust under a board can generate a surface difference easily felt under bare feet. That's why wood floors are sanded after installation, or pre-finished floors have beveled edges. You may have to bite the bullet and plan something like a three day family vacation to avoid fumes after you sand and stain the floors inside. Apparently you can fairly easily remove much of the initial stain attempts since it hasn't cured properly.

Yes, I know that's a hard thing to swallow, and lots of work and some money, but you will have to live with results for many years.

[joe webb]

I was about to order Bona Traffic HD from Amazon, but I ran into this thread on Houzz. So I have the following concerns.

1) Some of them mentioned to only use Bona stain with this Bona Traffic. There was also a recommendation in this thread to use Bona products together. That is a quite restrictive usage. Given I didn't use Bona stain, is Bona Traffic HD still viable?

2) From the Houzz thread, it seems many folks are not having the expected results. I would guess it is not the product, but more of installation error. If that is the case, is it recommended for a novice to use? I work slowly and carefully to make sure I get the best results, but obviously, I am limited on the knowledge side. Is this product harder to apply than say MinWax? Mixing the hardener in small quantity isn't an issue, I suppose I can use those small measuring cups (for cooking).

Given the low temperature in my garage, I have to do the finishing after installation. Thus oil-based products is not an option due to the strong smell. Water-based products from big box store probably won't be very durable. So I am looking for a commercial water-based low-odor finish.

I hope the odor is tolerable given I can't keep windows open for hours. Else I will have to postpone this project to March-April so I can apply this in my garage.

Thanks for your input and guidance

[Tom M King]

I doubt you will find anyone who has done it. Try to call Bona, and ask them. Traffic HD always goes on top of some sort of sealer. I'm just not sure that your stain will qualify. I don't think any floor pro would put down oil based stain, and then finish with Traffic HD because there would be no good reason to.

Traffic HD has very little odor, but it does have some. We have always just left after each coat, so no experience staying inside with it.