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Thread: fitting for catching dust from a lathe

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn C Roberts View Post
    Barry, I think that motor cam out of a 9000 product: low in[put volume, high hg lift, like a vacuum motor, but has more of a balance with a little more volume and a little less lift. I do use one of those blowers in a fume hood, and it does ok but not great. I will be using the blower from my August West chimney cleaning days. Not so much lift, but much higher volume.
    LOL...... Glen... you are right!!!... it's from a 9400.......did you work for Xerox at one time??

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Walworth, NY
    Posts
    103
    Yep! Seems like everybody in Rochester worked for either Kodak or Xerox. Started at Xerox in 74 as a service rep, then went on my own in 85 - to present. I saved a couple of blowers for the same purpose, but found the HF blowers move a much higher volume, and are cheap enough. So the blower and separator will sit on the shelf for another project someday....

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn C Roberts View Post
    Yep! Seems like everybody in Rochester worked for either Kodak or Xerox. Started at Xerox in 74 as a service rep, then went on my own in 85 - to present. I saved a couple of blowers for the same purpose, but found the HF blowers move a much higher volume, and are cheap enough. So the blower and separator will sit on the shelf for another project someday....
    Small World!!... I started as a service rep in 74 as well and stayed at it for 42 years... retired 5 years ago...

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    951
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I used to only use mine for sanding until one day I realized Pentz was right - even cutting with a sharp edge tool releases fine dust into the air. I had a bright light shining downwards and had temporarily put a dark background behind the work to get a photo. When I took a few cuts with a sharp spindle gouge I was surprised at how much fine dust was floating around in the light. Repeating with the DC running pulled a lot of the fines from behind and even in front of the piece. (This is with the 5hp cyclone and dry wood - might be different with wet wood and/or wimpy DC. I use it all the time now.

    I like your swing arm. I'd like to make one similar, articulated differently since my lathes are close to the walls.

    JKJ
    You are absolutely correct. All woodworking produces fine dust, regardless of whether it is jointing, planing (with a power planer), or turning. From the moment I started turning about 2 years ago, I set up dust collection via my cyclone with a hood at the lathe. Very little dust escapes in to the shop air and, in fact, small shavings get sucked up many times also. I wouldn't be without the hood on my lathe, regardless of how much it cost

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    You should remove the "Y" splitter form the DC when you want to extract from the lathe and put on a 6" pipe to the lathe and then the shortest amount of 6" flex you can get away with. Make a bell mouth hood for the end of the hose. It potentially can pull almost 3 times as much air as a 4" can. Put the "Y" back on for the 4" work.

    https://youtu.be/xjtHCmR-N3M

    https://youtu.be/usk3qWv-8Yc

    You can make your own bell mouth hood by turning a form from a block of wood that a length of PVC will fit over that flairs to 1/2 the radius of the duct (the radius of a 6" duct is 3" and 1/2 of that is 1 1/2" radius for the bell mouth lip). Turn a second plug to fit in the end for the tailstock to push against. You put the PVC over the form and apply heat to the lip with a heat gun while turning the lathe slowly. When it is warm enough you advance the tailstock, pushing the warm end over the form until the PVC has stretched the right amount and remove the heat.
    Wow almost three times as much, I'm in! I can spin a metal bell mouth to keep it ling and just yous it on the drill press as well. then set up the splitter for the band saw. Or can you get a 4 inch Y to a 6 inch outlet?
    Thanks
    Dean

  6. #36
    If you put a 6" on a 4" line the 4" becomes the limiting factor. It is the choke point. In an ideal world you would have a more powerful DC (3hp or more) and run a 6" to the bandsaw and split it into 3 pipes 4" in diameter. One to the cabinet around the lower wheel. a second bell mouth under the table by the guards and the third with a bell mouth above and behind the blade. In your case I would just put the one bell mouth to the underside of the table. Get a bigger impeller as soon as you can afford it.

    With 3/4hp you won't get nearly triple the airflow because the DC just can't pull that much but it will pull more than a 4" which is always better.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    If you put a 6" on a 4" line the 4" becomes the limiting factor. It is the choke point. In an ideal world you would have a more powerful DC (3hp or more) and run a 6" to the bandsaw and split it into 3 pipes 4" in diameter. One to the cabinet around the lower wheel. a second bell mouth under the table by the guards and the third with a bell mouth above and behind the blade.
    You've described my setup - 6" from a 5hp cyclone split to three 4" at the bandsaw. I get no sawdust inside the cabinet.

    My bandsaw has two collection ports built into the lower cabinet, one just below the lower guides. To catch the dust that sprays onto the floor from the lower guides I built a little shroud from plexiglas, held around the guides with magnets. As described earlier, the flex tube is is positioned or parked as needed, held in place with a strong magnet.

    dust_shroud_2_IMG_7598.jpg dust_shroud_1_IMG_7603.jpg dust_collection_bandsaw_IMG_7604.jpg

    Absolutely worth the effort.

    JKJ

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,086
    I recently built a portable style dust collection pickup for general use in the shop and used it yesterday to pickup dust from sanding on my lathe.

    The base is a large brake drum. It uses a 4" DWV pipe on top which connects to my DC with flex hose. I can lengthen the pipe with a couple and short lengths of the DWV. On the end, I have a bell mouth hood. The hood seems to catch dust better than just the end of the pipe. I purchased the Bell Mouth Hood from Parts-Express which sells audio and electronics. It is made for speaker ports but works well for dust collections.

    20180830_Bottom (Medium).jpg20180830_Side (Medium).jpg20181115_Bell Mouth Hood 2 (Medium).jpg

  9. #39
    Sweet gents, lts of great ideas. I bought the laguna 18bx earlier this year and I will try what is set up from the factory and go from there. The dust collector is a 1-1/2 grizzly G0860 new design due in at the end of December but we will see. I'l do a little review on it when it get it going. The DC has a 6 inch port with a removable Y for two four inch. What i am thinking is find a 6 inch with a 4 Y-ed in to run to the bandsaw more or ess fixed, put a blast gate to close it when not needed the run a 6 inch to the lathe with a bell mouth. Then move it to the drill press when doing some heavier drilling. It will be on a free standing stand something like larry so I can move it around as needed. Drill press and lathe in two positions.

    Thanks for the help fellas
    Dean

  10. #40
    Dean, here is still another hood. It simply sticks in between the ways and hangs on the wall when not in use. I went 6" to a gate and wye and can use just the top inlet, just the hood, or both. I have a variety of pipes that friction fit into the top inlet.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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