Quick finish for small spindle turnings

[Dave Bunge]

I've been turning for about 9 years and have made hundreds of bowls. But so far, only about a dozen spindle turned items, and 11 of them were tool handles.

But I've been asked to make some snowmen. Picture below is my first one, inspired by some that Curt Fuller posted on other forums.

I'd like to hear suggestions for easy to use finishes. I'm thinking that the wipe on ones that I usually use (wipe on poly or Antique Oil) would be more trouble than necessary.

So what do folks use for items like this? Perhaps while they are still on the lathe?


Thanks,
Dave

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Off set/multi axis turning for the hat? Cool! Not that I would know what snow or snowmen look like, but I would guess white latex paint. Snowmen should not look like wood. Just my $0.02.

[Stan Calow]

CA glue? Thats what I used, if you want glossy.

[Marvin Hasenak]

If the hats are turned separately and the snowmen are not turned using an offset method. I would use a modified mandrel as a spur drive using a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the snowman. Then after turning, I would set them on a rotisserie type spinner and spray paint them with rattle can paint. Or just use a 3/8 dowel to hand spin while spraying.

[Ian Parish]

I just soak them in BLO Boiled Linseed oil and let them cure. Nice real wood finish and easy. I have a few new videos of making these on my youtube Channel TurningRound if you want to see how I make them.
IanParish.jpg

[John K Jordan]

I'd like to hear suggestions for easy to use finishes. I'm thinking that the wipe on ones that I usually use (wipe on poly or Antique Oil) would be more trouble than necessary.

Dave,
For quick finishes for spindles (on the lathe) I use:

Mylands Friction polish. Shellac-based, goes on easily, creates a high gloss in a few seconds - at that point it is dry and done. Takes just a little experimenting for the best way to use. I apply with a piece of cotton cloth about 1"x3", not big enough to be a safety hazard. After wiping on at lower speeds I run the lathe at 3000rpm to heat and polish. Don't use it for bottle stoppers or things that may be around alcohol. I use it often for finger tops, magic wands, ornaments, etc.

Spray lacquer, Deft, can. Very quick to apply. Available in gloss, etc. I spray while the piece rotating slowly. Easy to use off the lathe too. I usually use two coats with a little steel wool between.

Spray acrylic, Krylon, rattle can. A lot of people use this. I like the matte finish. I assume they sell a gloss version but the matte can be buffed. Spray while rotating. Dries fairly quickly, faster if I direct compressed air toward it.

Lacquer sanding sealer, brushed on. Slower to dry but still pretty fast, makes a nice finish.

I know a lot of people use white spray paint on snowman ornaments. Yours (very nice, BTW!) would look good with a black or colored hat and some details added with a paintbrush or marker. John Lucas is an expert at this - maybe he will reply here or you might ask him.

BTW, as for adding color with brushes, I haven't tried them over white paint but on bare wood my new favorite "markers" are actually Arteza brush markers, water based, some fantastic colors. I've bought several when on sale, for myself and for some art student friends. https://www.amazon.com/Watercolor-Pa.../dp/B01N9IY5QF

JKJ

[Paul Williams]

Almost anything I have laying around for clear or stained wood. For opaque snowmen I use acrylic craft paint.

[Dave Bunge]

Thanks everyone for the responses and suggestions.

I am looking for a clear finish that lets the grain show. For the one in the picture, I will probably use spray lacquer since it's already off of the lathe. I would like to finish the next one on the lathe. I had tried Myland's Friction polish (from my 8 year old bottle) on the stub left from the 1st snowlady. I had uneven coverage. I'll try again with your tips, John. I'm reluctant to use CA since the fumes cause me trouble and since it's a fairly large project, about 9" tall. Any other suggestions for on the lathe finishing?

Just a little more about the project: The hat is turned separately and placed on top of the snow lady at an angle. I'll attach it with hot melt adhesive after finish is applied. I am planning to add eyes (burned or archival ink) and an orange carrot nose. Maybe add a hat band or make the hat from walnut for the next one.

Dave

[Derek Cohen]

Shellawax.

Australian product. Sold at Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...at=1,190,42942

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

I make dozens of tree ornaments, much smaller than 9 inches. I have tried several different finishes on the lathe and like the shine juice used by Capt Eddy, 1 part BLO, 1 part unwaxed shellac (Sold under the name Zinsers Sanding Sealer) and 1 part DNA. I keep it in repurposed tall skinny soy sauce bottles/hot sauce bottles so it is easy to dispense and there is no evaporation through plastic problem. I mixed up too much at first and filled three bottles. I am half way what I mixed two years ago. It does separate and it is necessary to shake it up good. After sanding and with the piece still, I use a cheap kiddie water color brush to paint the hard to reach corners and then wipe the stuff over the entire piece, then I turn the lathe on and apply the stuff again using pressure to cause the friction. I can sometimes get even coverage without the first coat, but it depends more on the wood used and how much it soaks up the finish. I also sometimes use wipe on poly. And I have tried a brush on lacquer I found on sale for $1 a qt on clearance at Lowes, but it raises the grain more. It does dry almost before I am done applying it.
With the shine juice, I do not have to wait or give it dry time before removing it from the lathe and the grain does not lift up.
thumbnail.jpg

[Art Moore]

Wood Turners Finish, from General Finishes, is one of the go-to finishes that the pen guys use. Easy to use and dries in minutes.

[John K Jordan]

I forgot to mention another quick finish - no finish! Some fine-grained woods, in particular holly, hard maple, persimmon, ebony, boxwood, can be buffed directly then waxed to keep clean. Some will end up with a mirror gloss (and will certainly let the grain and figure show!) Obviously not as good for something that gets handled a lot, but might be worth trying a test on the wood you are using for the snowmen.

For wax I usually use carnauba wax with the Beale buffing wheel followed by hand application of Renaissance Wax. (The Renaissaance wax alone can also be used as a subtle finish.)

JKJ

[Peter Blair]

I like to use Pre Catalized Lacquer in a spray can. Quick and easy after all the details of my snow people are done except for any additional fabric. I sell mine quite inexpensively and each year sell everything I make.

[carl mesaros]

I make dozens of tree ornaments, much smaller than 9 inches. I have tried several different finishes on the lathe and like the shine juice used by Capt Eddy, 1 part BLO, 1 part unwaxed shellac (Sold under the name Zinsers Sanding Sealer) and 1 part DNA. I keep it in repurposed tall skinny soy sauce bottles/hot sauce bottles so it is easy to dispense and there is no evaporation through plastic problem. I mixed up too much at first and filled three bottles. I am half way what I mixed two years ago. It does separate and it is necessary to shake it up good. After sanding and with the piece still, I use a cheap kiddie water color brush to paint the hard to reach corners and then wipe the stuff over the entire piece, then I turn the lathe on and apply the stuff again using pressure to cause the friction. I can sometimes get even coverage without the first coat, but it depends more on the wood used and how much it soaks up the finish. I also sometimes use wipe on poly. And I have tried a brush on lacquer I found on sale for $1 a qt on clearance at Lowes, but it raises the grain more. It does dry almost before I am done applying it.
With the shine juice, I do not have to wait or give it dry time before removing it from the lathe and the grain does not lift up.
thumbnail.jpg

I have to agree with Perry. Shine juice is just the perfect shine, not to glossy, but not dull either. I find it lasts much longer than Mylands or other friction polishes I have used. I've made lots of "snowmen" family's thanks also to Curt Fullers inspiration. I personally wouldn't paint them as it takes away from the hand turned look.
Shine juice is also great for smaller bowls > than 8" or so. Takes a little more time but the end result is worth it. My 2 cents only.

[Dave Bunge]

Thanks everyone for the additional replies. Lots more good ideas for me to try.

...After sanding and with the piece still, I use a cheap kiddie water color brush to paint the hard to reach corners and then wipe the stuff over the entire piece, then I turn the lathe on and apply the stuff again using pressure to cause the friction...

I tried the Mylands again on another piece, precoating it like you suggested. I got much better results, a nice smooth shiny surface. I'm using ash which soaks up up quite a bit of finish.

I think I'll use Mylands for my first round of snowmen. I'm on a bit of time crunch, trying to finish up a spindle turned project to bring to my woodworking club annual Christmas party/show and tell on Tuesday. I'm notorious for always bringing bowls, was prodded into promising to bring something else this year.

Dave