Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Base Cabinet Design, Prefinished Ply

  1. #1

    Base Cabinet Design, Prefinished Ply

    Alright, so currently I build base cabs with stretchers pocket screwed and glue, back panel rabbeted, and the deck is dado'd. I shoot cv on the insides of the box with the back off, but I'm curious...

    Is there a design where I can prefinish everything, and not run in to needing to glue where finish exists? I can do this with my uppers, since the deck and top are dado'd, but base cabs on the other hand...

    I have heard of people taping off areas when they prefinish, but i dont want to go this route for fear of inaccuracy, ie unfinished wood showing right at the edge of a stretcher butt jointed.

    I also want to avoid dado'ing full tops on base cabs because, well, that is a lot of ply, and ply is expensive.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Canton, NY
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Horne View Post
    Alright, so currently I build base cabs with stretchers pocket screwed and glue, back panel rabbeted, and the deck is dado'd. I shoot cv on the insides of the box with the back off, but I'm curious...

    Is there a design where I can prefinish everything, and not run in to needing to glue where finish exists? I can do this with my uppers, since the deck and top are dado'd, but base cabs on the other hand...

    I have heard of people taping off areas when they prefinish, but i dont want to go this route for fear of inaccuracy, ie unfinished wood showing right at the edge of a stretcher butt jointed.

    I also want to avoid dado'ing full tops on base cabs because, well, that is a lot of ply, and ply is expensive.
    Yes. Instead of using a fully dadod top, use a stretcher at the front and rear that is dadod into the sides. You can throw a dado I. The sides bottom and rear stretcher and do a full capture back so no glue is required there either. Did I answer the question or just give ya more questions?

  3. #3
    I'm tracking. I think I have it envisioned. My concern with a full capture back is not having anything solid behind it for the screw to lag through when I attach them to the stud...but this can be remedied by attaching some more ply to the back of the back.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    Tape it. You only need half inch tape for a three quarter panel. You have plenty of margin for wobbles and still gives enough glue coverage. This avoids the need for redesigning your cabinets.

    Spraying your cabinet fully assembled is not so bad. Doing flat panels means turning and can take twice as long. Cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Canton, NY
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Horne View Post
    I'm tracking. I think I have it envisioned. My concern with a full capture back is not having anything solid behind it for the screw to lag through when I attach them to the stud...but this can be remedied by attaching some more ply to the back of the back.
    French cleat, z clip, an extra strip of ply along the back to hold it flush.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •