Well,
It turns out it is one of those 10" saws that were recalled. I couldn't help but notice the saw is in as good a shape as I remembered.
I don't need the table. Van, how do we pull this off? How do you want payment?
Well,
It turns out it is one of those 10" saws that were recalled. I couldn't help but notice the saw is in as good a shape as I remembered.
I don't need the table. Van, how do we pull this off? How do you want payment?
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Ken,
I will have to carve out some time next week (probably Wednesday) to go get one of them out of storage. I will need to open it up and separate all the non-table parts and figure out how best to pack them then get you an idea about the shipping costs, so it may be toward the end of the week. I will PM you with the details once I have them. Payment for the shipping won't be an issue, Paypal, check, whatever is easy for you.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Thank you Van!
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
I'm still using a 12" that I bought new in 1974. I expect it's very similar to that 10". If it has a heavy, cast iron arm it is more likely to be just a smaller version. I only use mine, for maybe the past 25 years, to accurately cut 90 degree cuts. The only adjustment I dare touch is the up, and down crank. It mainly gets used to cut tenon shoulders.
The rollers have eccentric center bearings, and you can play with them to get all the slop out, as well as get it to run perfectly true. The reason I don't do any rough cutting is that if it ever locked up in one piece of wood, the time spent to get it to cut perfectly would be thrown out the door.
The one thing I always enjoyed the most with that saw is the location of the switch. You place your hand on the handle, and the switch is easy to operate with your thumb. I never liked turning a RAS on, and then reaching in for the handle.
Ken,
The best thing about the kit is the new blade cover. The dust port is in a much better position (in back) than the front, like mine. Much easier to hook up to a hose, without the hose being in the way.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
Old friends are the best kind. You have history and memories together. I understand the sadness of seeing them go. But maybe you can go visit them when you are in the midst of winter in Idaho. You get used to most of your neighbors being there. Our 90 year old neighbor lady decided it was time for her to move closer to her son and daughter. When your used to seeing someone regularly you miss that. I would plow her driveway some of the time if her grandson didn't get it right away. We just moved ourselves into a new home. Our final home no doubt. Something you realize in later years.
Here is a picture of the saw guard we are talking about, for those unfamiliar with the improvement. The guard is designed to hold the carriage behind the fence until the guard is raised by squeezing a lever that is in front of the handle (on the blade side of the handle), which raises the guard above the fence enabling carriage travel.
6424E42C-3E19-4DED-B237-CB7CF79517E2.jpg
The lever is released after the front of the guard passes the fence, and the guard rides at this level or on top of the work piece if it is higher than the fence.
68CAA1E7-E122-4646-BF9A-0F64E16A5B3C.jpg
Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!