What size blade, etc.

[Jeremy Hicks]

I picked this jointer plane up at an antique store for a few bucks because it’s missing a blade and a wedge. Any ideas what size blade I might need for this and if I need a chip breaker? Also, should I try to make a wedge for it or try to find one somewhere?

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Inside of the mouth/throat measures 67mm.

Thanks,

Jeremy

[Bill Houghton]

Do you know whether it's a European (not British, but on the continent) plane or British/American/Australian? If the former, they might have used metric irons; if the latter, they almost certainly used irons in inches and fractions. If fractional, you'd probably be looking for an iron 1-1/2" wide, not common now, but not unknown back then. Get a 1-3/4" iron and grind it narrower, or see if one of the specialty makers stocks/can provide an iron that width.

If there's a slot cut where the iron will bed that might, logically, take a chip breaker screw head, then it probably came with a chipbreaker. If not, not.

[Vincent Tai]

42mm? sounds rather small. are you measuring the cheek to cheek somewhere in the middle? Something with at least 1/32" clearance on other side when in the plane will do. A little more won't harm. A good vintage iron can be found on eBay, don't splurge though. Making a wedge that fits properly is good; better than hammering at any random wedge you find and plop in. You do need a chip breaker as this is a double iron plane, use the one that comes with the iron. You'll need make a new wedge that fits with the new iron, re-bed the iron, true the sole, etc. Lots of things to do. If the size is actually 42mm then you might have a hard time finding that size blade with the right length. Cutting one down from a bigger iron may be your only choice. by then I would just make a new plane instead. Finding someone to forge the iron is possible, will probably cost a quite a bit though.

I just actually looked at the larger versions of the pictures. The abutments look a mess. I wouldn't bother too much with something like that. Just try and find something that fits, and go from there.

[David Bassett]

42mm is about 1-5/8". I just browsed LV's site and they offer a lot of replacement blades, some with matched chip-breakers, and had at least one iron listed as 1-5/8". (On the US site, who knows it might be listed as 42mm on the Canadian site! )

I think you'll need more measurements than just width, but maybe you can find a new one that will work or could be modified.

Also, if you're up for a project, you could consider making an iron yourself. Lots of threads, over the years, here about making moulding plane irons from annealed 0-1 steel and heat treating them yourself. A full plane iron would be easier to shape, but harder to heat for heat treatment, than a smaller moulding plane iron. But it should be possible.

[Bill Houghton]

Let's keep in mind that he doesn't want a 42mm blade, but one a touch narrower, so he can adjust it laterally. That's why I suggested 1-1/2" - which is a bit more than 38mm, leaving 2mm on each side for lateral adjustment.

I saw a rosewood jointer plane at a sale once with what looked to be a 1-1/2" blade/iron. I took it to be designed for edge jointing nominal 1" stock. I did not, however, take it in the literal sense, as the sellers wanted way more money than it was worth to me.

[Jeremy Hicks]

Sorry!!! I was looking at the wrong note when I posted this....It is 67mm....sorry!!! Long day.

[Jeremy Hicks]

Yeah, I had the wrong measurement, sorry! It’s 67mm.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

What are the dimensions of the plane? What are you planning to do with it?

[Jeremy Hicks]

It’s 22” x 3 1/8” and I’d like to use it as a jointer.

What are the dimensions of the plane? What are you planning to do with it?

[Jeremy Hicks]

Looks like maybe a Hock 2 5/8” with a chip breaker would be a good fit...Then to make a wedge as I’ve never done anything like that before...

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Any markings on it? Somebody will likely chime in as to whether a Hock would work or not. I don’t know.

It is about the dimensions of my jointer. The original iron was likely tapered. Mine is tapered from a little under 3mm to about 4.5. Both the iron and chipbreakers are massive compared to any modern plane iron I have seen.

You can likely find a correct iron for it if you look around a little. Butcher, Auburn Tool Co., Ward, Sargent and Co., and Atkinson. All are good names.


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[steven c newman]

IMAG0149.jpgOhio #81.jpgbiggie guys.jpg
Both wooden body planes were 22" long...currently have the No.81 Auburn...

[Bill Houghton]

Looks like maybe a Hock 2 5/8” with a chip breaker would be a good fit...Then to make a wedge as I’ve never done anything like that before...

Went back and looked at your original picture, and, yes, chipbreaker; you can see the slot for the screw head.

2-5/8" will give you under a half millimeter of play. That's pretty tight as far as lateral play. Go look at a metal bodied plane, or, if you've got other woodies, a wood bodied plane. I doubt you'll find any, except maybe shoulder or other specialty planes, in which the iron is that exact a fit in the body.

If you're using Hock irons, I'd see if he can grind you one 2-1/2" wide.

[Kory Cassel]

Jeremy, as far as the wedge goes, the originals are a nifty piece of work. They are ramped in the middle with the horns meeting the slope of the abutments exactly forming a tapered chute with zero gaps. Cool project if you're up to it. I would be doubtful that you will be able to buy one that would fit just right, but you could maybe get one to modify. Either way I think having a model or example of the fit on another plane would be a good idea.