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Thread: How do i saw repetitive 1 inch cuts on a miter saw?

  1. #16
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    Al-is this what your talking about? Having a hard time visualizing?
    That's more or less how I'd do it - on the table saw with the stop like that so it doesn't bind.

    I'd also bundle 4 pieces. run the end through first & cut off a half inch or so - just so all 4 are even, then just make 7 passes instead of 30.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
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  2. #17
    Sometimes to get the task at hand done, you have to make do with the tools at your immediate disposal. If a miter saw is that tool, I would consider fashioning a flip stop. Clamp it to the miter saw fence or an auxiliary fence. I like the aux fence because the zero clearance at the back will make the procedure that much safer.
    Set your piece against it, flip the stop out of the way, cut, and repeat. No opportunity for binding.

    *Be sure to follow Jim's advice of not lifting the spinning blade back out of the cut where it can grab the cut piece.*

    You can buy flip stops also, but it should be a simple thing to make. You could also make a hook stop that registers to the end of your auxiliary fence and fixes the spot to set your workpiece against. Once set, put the hook stop aside until the next cut.

    There is a good video on YouTube by a woodworker named Mr. Baldwin (can't recall his first name). He demonstrates how to use a miter saw safely and accurately for small part cutting using aux fences, tables, double stick tape, adhesive sandpaper, and hold downs. Worth your time. You probably have most of these items in your workshop right now. Hope this helps

  3. #18
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    The mark goes at 1" to the right of the saw blade.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    The mark goes at 1" to the right of the saw blade.
    Yes, and this is why the flip stop or hook stop is placed on the right side of the fence. By fence I mean the vertical support backing that exists on both sides of the saw blade at the back of the miter saw table.

  5. #20
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    You can do this on your mitre saw perfectly safely. Securely set up a piece of 2" timber on the infeed side of your mitre saw. This makes a temporary stepped saw bed. Set up a mimimum sized stop in the usual way on the out feed side and start cutting. The cut piece will drop down out of the path of the saw blade when it is cut. Flick it aside with a thin stick before cutting the next one. It works on the table saw as well but the drop saw is simple, quick and safe with this set up. Cutting blocks like this is a first day on the job task for a first year apprentice. Cheers

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruhland View Post
    Attachment 398616
    Al-is this what your talking about? Having a hard time visualizing?
    thats the ticket!
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruhland View Post
    Attachment 398616
    Al-is this what your talking about? Having a hard time visualizing?
    Yes, that's it.
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Henderson View Post
    You don't. That's a job for the tablesaw with a sled and a stopblock.
    Ding, ding, ding

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    Last edited by glenn bradley; 12-13-2018 at 9:56 AM.
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  9. #24
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    Tablesaw, with what everyone else said. Hands down.

  10. #25
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    While I agree most people would use a TS for these cuts I would use a bandsaw, but I am wired like that.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  11. #26
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    one solution that I haven't seen suggested is something called step and repeat. It's used in printing.

    -- Rip a strip exactly 1" wide + the width of the kerf.
    -- cut the strip into, say, 10 pieces.
    -- Set up a stop about 18" from your miter saw blade and cut a piece of stock to that length.
    -- insert one of your pieces between the stop and the stock, thereby advancing the stock and leaving the cutoff free to move
    -- continue adding blocks until you have cut 10 pieces

    You can modify the procedure to conserve stock.
    Do the same thing at 36" and cut off 10 pieces. Then move your stop so that you cut off just a bit and calibrate to shorter stock. Cut off 10 pieces and so on.

  12. #27
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    How precise of a square block do you need?

    One thought I had was to make rig sort of like is used for flattening large slabs (but on a smaller scale)
    A Piece of plywood with sides going up to the height you want.
    Take your stock (before you cut to the smaller sizes and lay it in between the sides and use a router to make it the height set by the sides, turn 90 degrees and repeat, now you have two dimensions that are exactly the same.
    Now cut the blocks on the miter saw but make them a little bit large.
    Take the collection of blocks, set them in the plywood rig, but clamp them together (make sure each block is referenced to the bottom, trim the side with the router. Voila you should have a block with x,y, and z dimensions the same. (at least theoretically :-) )

    John

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