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Thread: How do i saw repetitive 1 inch cuts on a miter saw?

  1. #1
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    How do i saw repetitive 1 inch cuts on a miter saw?

    I am trying to make some 1 inch long blocks from a 2x2 I need 30 of them for a project. Am having a hellva time getting them all the same size...Tried a stop block, but that is dangerous as as can be when that lil piece gets between the saw blade and stop block. Suggestions please...:-)

    D
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  2. #2
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    if i need a bunch of something the same, i think about the critical dimension. can you rip it to 1 in and then cut the blocks so that inaccurate cut is on the side instead of the critical dimension? may require a different size stock. do you have a band saw with a fence?

  3. #3
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    Use your table saw. Either use a sled with a stop block and spacer. Set the stop block to get your 1" length with the spacer, remove the spacer before you cut so the piece is not trapped. Or use your miter gauge with a stop block on your fence located in front of the blade so your workpiece clears the stop block before the cut starts and is not trapped.

  4. #4
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    The first think I would do would be to make a zero clearance fence for my miter saw. I would also consider making a jig that would hold the cut off in place during and after the cut. It may require you to stop the saw after each cut so that the blade doesn't catch on the piece and produce a kick back.

    This type of cut on a miter saw is very dangerous. A table saw would be more accurate and safer.
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  5. #5
    You don't. That's a job for the tablesaw with a sled and a stopblock.

  6. #6
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    Thanks All.... Looks like i will be building my sled before i get the small blocks project done!
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Garson View Post
    use your miter gauge with a stop block on your fence located in front of the blade so your workpiece clears the stop block before the cut starts and is not trapped.
    Can you clarify this? I am having a hard time envisioning it....
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  8. #8
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    Position the block ahead of the saw blade & clamp it to the fence. Then position the fence with block so the block is 1" away from the near side of the blade. Place the workpiece against the miter gage & slide it up against the block. Hold the workpiece to the miter gage & move both the miter gage & workpiece through the blade to cut off 1" pieces. The block will remain at the fence while the workpiece is cleared for the cut. Repeat as required.
    If you don't already have one, it would minimize tearout if you had a backer board attached to the miter gage.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Launier View Post
    Position the block ahead of the saw blade & clamp it to the fence. Then position the fence with block so the block is 1" away from the near side of the blade. Place the workpiece against the miter gage & slide it up against the block. Hold the workpiece to the miter gage & move both the miter gage & workpiece through the blade to cut off 1" pieces. The block will remain at the fence while the workpiece is cleared for the cut. Repeat as required.
    If you don't already have one, it would minimize tearout if you had a backer board attached to the miter gage.
    Couldn't have said it better, thanks for clarifying.

  10. #10
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    If you choose to stick with the miter saw and stop block...make the cut and don't raise the blade until it stops spinning. The kick-back of small off-cuts like that happen when the spinning blade is raised and it catches the off-cut. That said, a sled on the table saw will also permit precise small component cutting.
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  11. #11
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    That is about the hardest shape to cut. I used to use a miter saw to cut blocks for banjo rims, essentially segmented turnings. Each banjo required 54 or 72 blocks, so it took a while. As Jim Becker says, holding the head down and using a stop block is pretty safe, and for only making 30 blocks it shouldn't take too long. Now I cut my blocks on the bandsaw, using a rip fence to control the length and a miter gauge to set the angle. If you have a sharp blade and a well set up saw this is faster and makes at least as good of a cut as the miter saw. I put a cardboard box on the cart behind the bandsaw so that the cut off blocks eventually fall into the box, after getting pushed across the table by their compatriots. It's a lot safer than the miter saw too. I still use the miter saw to make tree slice coasters, they're about 4" in diameter and 1/4" thick and I can lift the saw head without a problem, they are too thin and tall to get caught in the blade easily, and just ride beside the blade as it goes up. When I cut banjo rim blocks I used a hold down stick with a notch cut in the end so I could raise the head again, but those blocks were around 2" long so there was more room for the stick to go between the blade and the stop block.
    Zach

  12. #12
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    I would put it on my miter saw with a line at the dimension I wanted.
    Then I would cut the end and move the end I just cut to the line. I would repeat the cut until I had the blocks I needed.

  13. #13
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    I would put it on my miter saw with a line at the dimension I wanted.
    Then I would cut the end and move the end I just cut to the line. I would repeat the cut until I had the blocks I needed.
    Tried that method once....didn't take the saw kerf into account......by the third or fourth block, the blocks had gotten noticeably smaller.
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  14. #14
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    DCD045BC-0069-42A7-AFCE-E3168DA10850.jpg

    Swf got got a few different sizes coming out. Lol
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  15. #15
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    image.jpg
    Al-is this what your talking about? Having a hard time visualizing?
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