Best options for adding electrical?

[Tim Bridge]

Is the garage attached to the house?
It makes a difference code wise as to what you can do.

As a master electrician, I would install a panel in the garage and transfer whatever garage circuits into the new panel.

FYI, it is a code violation to run multiple circuits to a detached garage.

[Wade Lippman]

1) A couple years ago HF DCs were 120v 13a. Probably still are.

2) I had a 3hp cyclone, 3hp planer, 3hp TS, a 3hp jointer, and assorted 120v tools on a 30a subpanel. Obviously I didn't use them all at the same time.

[Brian W Evans]

I put a subpanel in my garage last year and am very pleased with it. I had an electrician put in the panel, but adding circuits for outlets, lights, heater, etc. is easy so I do it myself. I use EMT (metal conduit) to get the wiring from the panel to its end point. This is also pretty easy once you watch a few videos about conduit bending. Doing it this way means I can add a circuit in no time using off-the-shelf parts - very convenient.

For my 120v outlets, I always use 20 amp breakers. The price difference in wire, breakers, outlets, etc. is negligible and you are more likely to be able to run multiple tools off of one circuit.

You never know what you're going to end up running in the garage - maybe you'll end up welding, or running a couple of fans, some lights, and an HVLP sprayer for a paint booth or, if you're really lucky, you'll get some monster machine that requires its own 40 amp circuit plus dust collection.

[Karl Loeblein]

Is the garage attached to the house?
It makes a difference code wise as to what you can do.

As a master electrician, I would install a panel in the garage and transfer whatever garage circuits into the new panel.

FYI, it is a code violation to run multiple circuits to a detached garage.

Tim, Is it a code violation if each circuit gets run to separate sub-panels (assuming each circuit comes from it's own 220V breaker on the main panel)? If so then any idea why?

[Steve Eure]

I'll weigh in on this one since I just added a sub panel to my shop. After much time at the computer planning and pricing, I went with a 100 amp panel simply because it offered more spaces for breakers. I also got a deal on the panel with several breakers in a package deal and it ended up only being around
$20 dollars more over the 50 amp.
I also have a space heater in my shop that requires 30 amp 220 and if I'm running my TS and DC at the same time it pulls quit a load.
Personally, if you are going to add more tools later, why scrimp to save a few bucks.

[Bruce Walters]

Is the garage attached to the house?
It makes a difference code wise as to what you can do.

As a master electrician, I would install a panel in the garage and transfer whatever garage circuits into the new panel.

FYI, it is a code violation to run multiple circuits to a detached garage.

Yes, garage is attached to house.

At this point, I think I'm going to run 100A to the new sub-panel in the garage with a lockout switch. After sharing the safety benefits of the subpanel with the boss (wife), she's on-board with spending the money.

I'll hire out the panel & switch install, but feel comfortable running my own circuits off the panel.

I really appreciate everyone's insights.

[Frank Pratt]

Just a note about the panel market around here. The only resi panels that are rated below 125A are little 2 - 8 circuits. The price for 125A panels probably only varies about $30 from a little 16 circuit to a big 40 circuit, so if you have the few extra inches, go for the bigger one. And there's the marketing quirk that has the price of a panel with a 100A main breaker significantly less that the same size panel with no main. It is nice having the main breaker there to shut everything down if desired.

[sean meltvedt]

E48E97C8-6551-429D-9846-1BD486C6296F.jpgBruce, if you follow Roberts good idea about splitting the plugs, be sure to bring another identifiable neutral wire as well. Or if doing a multiwire branch, be sure to glance at 210.4 in the NEC. It is a small section that is surprisingly easy to read
cheers
Sean

[Bill Dufour]

Sean nice to see the electrician installed all those sideways outlets correctly. I see them backwards from time to time.
Bill D.

[sean meltvedt]

Bill - perhaps sometime I’ll learn how to take and post photos

[Roger Feeley]

I've gone the sub-panel route twice. I suggest that you put in a big indoor cutoff switch between the main panel and your sub-panel for two reasons. I suggest at least 70 amps which is what I have and seems to be plenty.

1. That switch is your line of demarcation between the professional and the amateur. Have the electrician put in the switch and you can wire everything 'downstream'.
2. You have the peace of mind that once you throw that switch, your entire sub-panel is dead and you can do anything you want.
3. That fuse is your 'get out of jail free' card. If you do short something out, the fuse protects your house.
4. Safety. Mount the switch low and teach any children that, "If Daddy gets in trouble, pull the big red lever".

I have done this twice and the pros like it. I leave all the house wiring to them and I own the sub-panel and any wires coming out.

Additionally, to help separate the amateur from the pro. No wiring in my shop travels behind walls. It's either surface mounted Romex or in conduit. That makes it all very easy to tear out if need be. Again, I have the peace of mind in being able to say that all my wiring is clearly visible.

Leave the existing circuits and lights in place for when you work on your electrical. My current shop is in my basement in a house we had built. I had the builder put in a few outlets and lights so I would have something when I shut my electrical down.

[Roger Feeley]

Regarding the amperage. I have a 100A sub-panel but a 70A cutoff fuse. I've never had a problem. But I work on my own with one machine at a time + the dust collector. My lights are all LED and draw about 7 amps. DC is 1.5HP. Table saw is 3HP.

So unless you have a welder in your future, 70 is gobs.

Consider going to Habitat ReStore for the Sub-Panel. When I moved, I gave mine away to ReStore. You might have to haunt the place a few times. Or maybe there are electricians around that might have something.

[Frank Pratt]

I've gone the sub-panel route twice. I suggest that you put in a big indoor cutoff switch between the main panel and your sub-panel

That really is just a waste of time, money & space. The sub-panel will be fed by a circuit breaker in the main panel which will serve as a shutoff & overcurrent protection. If you want a master shut off in your shop, just use a panel that has a main breaker in it. Around here, they're cheaper than the panels without one.

As far as isolating the DIY wiring from the rest of the house, it's totally unnecessary unless the DIY stuff is done incorrectly. If you are not absolutely sure your doing it right, then find someone who does. And get a permit & have it inspected.

I agree that 70A is lots for a straight up hobby wood shop.

[Tim M Tuttle]

I was in a similar situation to you last year and I decided to put a 100 amp sub panel in my garage. An electrical outfit here in town offers engineering services where they walk you through everything you need to buy and install and also pull the permit. I did all the work myself and the electrician was around to answer any questions I had and also came by a couple times to check on my work. The physical part of electrical work is pretty easy. It's all the codes and dos and donts that get tricky. I probably saved myself $1500 doing it this way and learned a ton. I really enjoy doing electrical work so this was a really fun project.

[Bill Dufour]

C-list and Ebay can be a source for a used panel loaded with breakers and wire. Depending on inspectors allowing used or not. For my shop I bought a used 100 amp panel with about 12 breakers for less then the cost of a empty panel from the box store. If all your panels are the same make you can swap breakers around for testing and as needs change.
Bil lD.