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Thread: Shop Layout 12'x24' (single garage bay)

  1. #1

    Shop Layout 12'x24' (single garage bay)

    Greetings fellow woodworkers,
    I am hoping for a little guidance help.
    I am posting photos of two shop layout options I am considering. I am a home DIY remodeler who dabbles in the occasional furniture piece and handmade wooden boxes. Option 1 has a table-saw outfeed assembly table with a kapex miter saw where option2 has a workbench assembly table separate from the table saw and utilizes a MFT/TS-55 for crosscuts. I don’t know how functional an outfeed assembly table is with work-pieces being in the way of the table saw when an additional cut is needed? Thanks for any feedback.
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    Last edited by John Petsche; 12-11-2018 at 8:36 PM.

  2. #2
    I would go with layout number 1, with a few modifications. Move the TS against the wall. I would move the BS next to the door on the right. I would also figure out a better place for the jointer, think you need more infeed and outfeed, you could also move next to the door. BS on 1 side JP on the other. I am moving away from a miter saw in the shop, even a Kapex takes up to much room in a small shop. If you really need, I would make a cabinet along top wall to house Kapex and drill press. Also you could push CT vac under counter when not in use. You will appreciate the storage space. I would put DC in a corner, not along a long wall.

  3. #3
    While my overall workshop is 30' x 40' x 10'h, I keep my woodworking area somewhat compact and to the space of a single bay garage with the layout designed to minimize a lot of unnecessary footsteps. The majority of my equipment is lined up along one wall and spaced to accommodate my cutting needs without being moved, though the jointer can be easily moved to accommodate longer boards if needed. The planer is on a workmate with wheels and easily moved for use or to be out of the way as necessary. My dust collection pipes run along the wall on the floor and one of the blast gates has a flexible hose that can be connected to the table saw as needed (and out of the walking space when not needed).

    The heart of the workspace is a combination assembly area / workbench / outfeed table that allows a convenient spot to place place wood once cut and prepped for use, and allows a large amount of storage underneath for my portable power tools and general woodworking supplies (drawers will be installed on the anti-fatigue mat side for additional storage). There is also a 30" x 30" drop down area that I use for my oscillating spindle / belt sander, portable router table and scroll saw (each of which stores in the unit when not in use). A shop vac / Dust Deputy combo provides dust collection for the drop down area and bench top clean-up, though I may plumb and utilize the Grizzly dust collector instead at some point. The table saw is located at one end and the workspace height is designed to accommodate an upgraded table saw in the future. Anti-fatigue matting is installed on one side and helps provide comfort while standing and working.

    My wood is stored on the floor (with stickers to provide separation from the concrete) and an upcoming project is to build a wood storage rack that will sit in the area that the wood is presently stacked.





    - Workshop b.jpg

    - Workshop a.jpg

  4. #4
    Sorry I should of clarified that my machines are on wheels for mobility. If longer infeed/outfeed are needed I can move the machines. Thanks for posting photos of your shop "Art".

  5. #5
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    In a small shop scenario like yours, I'd keep everything 100% mobile so you can arrange things for specific projects. My first shop was a similar one car garage setup and even then with smaller tools, it was a challenge despite everything being on wheels if I wanted to work on something larger. Park anything not actually in use at one end and keep the space as open as you can as you work!
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  6. #6
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    My vote would be layout #!, with the outfeed table. My top 3 improvements for my shop would be a outfeed / assembly table for my TS, a outfeed / infeed table for the miter saw, and a sled for the TS.
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  7. #7
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    Layout 1 but swap the workbench and jointer/planer locations so you get more infeed outfeed space. I’m in a 20x22 space and I try to keep at least 8’ clearance on either side of cutter head or blade so I can maximize board length. I recently picked up my first track saw but plan to keep the clearance around the table saw and jointer planer.

  8. #8
    It sounds like people don't mind their assembly table being the table-saw outfeed support. How often is your work piece in the way of a needed table saw rip or cut?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Petsche View Post
    It sounds like people don't mind their assembly table being the table-saw outfeed support. How often is your work piece in the way of a needed table saw rip or cut?
    John, it's a good question and many folks do, at least, start out that way. But "best laid plans" can very quickly cause a workflow backup. I think a better solution for assembly is a flat work surface (like a torsion box) with knock-down ways to support it at multiple heights or an adjustable height bench that's wide enough to support the majority of project types one might work on. (My bench is 30" wide for that reason and is adjustable height) Back when I had a cabinet saw, the outfeed table sometimes did get utilized for assembly, but I tried to limit that to "extra" assembly space, rather than "the" assembly space so I could do work with the saw while something was clamped and curing.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by John Petsche View Post
    It sounds like people don't mind their assembly table being the table-saw outfeed support. How often is your work piece in the way of a needed table saw rip or cut?
    I have used my assembly table for an outfeed table for about 20 years. I like the configuration. It keeps the saw near the work and allows me to have a bigger outfeed table than I would otherwise. I don't run into many problems with the work being in the way of ripping or plywood cutting, but I do most of my milling ahead of assembly. Having a couple sawhorses and a piece of good plywood (or the desk surface of an old cubicle) helps a lot if you need to move something off the bench temporarily.
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  11. #11
    Jim, I am planning to purchase a noden adjust-a-bench and put a paulk workbench (like a torsion box) on top of it since I agree adjustability is nice to have especially the older we get.

  12. #12
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    John, I've owned Geoff Noden's bench system for many years now and love it. Good choice! I'm actually considering replacing the more tradition top on it with a (hopefully) flatter torsion box myself. I just have to design it so I can still use my hold fasts which I happen to really like to use.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    My shop is a little smaller but works really well with nothing on wheels. My workbench is in the center and the TS is slid to the right to the wall. No outfield table, just a movable roller. Separate router table.

    I really like being able to walk all the way around the bench. I have a second bench 42" tall and 24" x 24" for close work like designing, chopping joints, measuring and marking. Really good for the back.

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