OMGA questions

[Brian Holcombe]

I found an Omga with there DC cabinet built into it. Buying that shortly.

For the moment I'm going to have to keep the Kapex for wider cuts, but eventually I will make it redundant by buying a Radial arm and putting it right next to the OMGA, I can probably use the same DC cabinet for both, and probably use it for my router table too so I can avoid plumbing a line into my basement shop only for the router table.

Kapex is fine for wider cuts, but I can fit a radial arm with a 17.5" capacity.

Given my interest in making some changes I have decided to develop a stop which can be bolt onto regular aluminum extrusions and flips up, I plan to build it for the chop saw and for the FD-250 mortiser. Something a bit heavier duty that the average stuff floating about but less space consuming than the really nice industrial type stuff.

[Martin Wasner]

I found an Omga with there DC cabinet built into it. Buying that shortly.

I'm curious how that cabinet works. I've seen them, but I always have the saw built into a bench, never a stand alone tool.

I keep prowling Craigslist and ebay hoping another one will pop up close and for a reasonable price. The one on my personal bench is beat to crap. Still cuts well, but it's all jacked up and takes some patience to deal with the jacked-up'dness of it.

Since you have a mill at your disposal, I'd recommend making new fences right off the bat. The factory ones are cast aluminum and are missing a lot of material right around the blade. They will bow in towards the blade over time. I keep meaning to have some new ones made for all of mine that are beefier.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks for the tip Martin, I’ll make up something heavy for that. I have a piece of 3” x 2” x 12” aluminum so that may come in handy for one half. I’ll probably set it up so that one side is undercut for mitering and one is left square.

Edit:

Looks like the biggest of the saws have a heavy cast iron fence with a sacrificial aluminum insert, I think I’ll duplicate that setup using cast iron and aluminum.

[Martin Wasner]

My Derda might be cast iron fences, but they aren't great either. You'll see when you get one, It'd be super easy to improve the design and make them way over built

[Brian Holcombe]

Awesome, overbuilt is a good direction to head. Making cast iron fences is practically becoming my hobby.

[brent stanley]

I'm bringing one of these back to life soon. Should be pretty terrifying on first startup!

B

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[Brian Holcombe]

Cool, best of luck with the restoration. Looks pretty sturdy, what size is it?

[brent stanley]

Cool, best of luck with the restoration. Looks pretty sturdy, what size is it?

Hi Brian, it's a Wadkin CC2, and swings an 18" blade, but the arbour will take trenching heads and moulding heads. Will crosscut 32 inches plus, and swings 45 degrees one way and 60 the other.

[Brian Holcombe]

It dwarfs the pallet, looks massive.

Did they make a smaller version? I wouldn’t mind hunting down some old arn for this task.

[Sean Tracey]

In this area, hand held random orbit sanders are commonly referred to as a "D.A." which is for "Disk Abrasive".

If the edging is close enough to flush, you just sand it.

I think D.A. means dual action. As opposed to the type that just spin in circles only and leave swirls.

[brent stanley]

It dwarfs the pallet, looks massive.

Did they make a smaller version? I wouldn’t mind hunting down some old arn for this task.

Look up the CD. It's very very beefy.....twice the heft of any OMGA I've ever seen.....but with shorter stroke than the CC. Bearings that the units run on are very far apart for tremendous stiffness and the runners are just drill rod, so easily replaced if needed.



B

[Jim Becker]

Brent, you're going to need a whole extra building just for that saw! Sheesh! A monster!

[Martin Wasner]

I think D.A. means dual action. As opposed to the type that just spin in circles only and leave swirls.

Could be. I was always told disk abrasive.

ROS, DA, sander....

[Brian Holcombe]

Look up the CD. It's very very beefy.....twice the heft of any OMGA I've ever seen.....but with shorter stroke than the CC. Bearings that the units run on are very far apart for tremendous stiffness and the runners are just drill rod, so easily replaced if needed.



B

Will do! Thank you.

[Joe Calhoon]

Brian,
Graule is another saw to consider. Sturdy cast iron construction but small footprint in size. Not a typical radial arm that rips dados etc but very accurate in all the settings for angles and compound cuts. The large easy to read scale has positive stops for 90 in both directions. With a 14” blade this will cut about 5 1/2” thick. Works to a zero point like the Unipoint.
we still use our sliding saw for any accurate cross and angle cuts but I can always depend on the Graule to be square in both directions for cross cuts. Unlike the many Dewalts I have owned.
Not easy to find used in the US. They got burned years ago with Hofmann in the Mahagany Masterpieces disaster and not keen on the US market. They are made in the same area of Germany that Okoma, Baurele, Olpold, Lietz tooling and other famous tool companies originated.

We still use the Dewalt for rough cross cutting to save the blade on the Graule.
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