OMGA questions

[David Zaret]

martin which lipping planer did you get? i'm seriously considering one...

-- dz

Off the top of my head

Moulder $12.5k
Door clamp $23.5k
2 castle machines $7300
Weeke cnc $48k
Software $5300
Lipping planer $1800
Deros sanders $1900
Land plane $1k
About a dozen nail guns $2600?
7.5hp cyclone $5500
Pickup $63k. If you don't think that qualifies, I wouldn't own a pickup if it weren't for the shop.

Plus whatever else I can't think of for little stuff. I know I've blown at least a grand on tooling for the router so far. $1600 for a tech to do start up, $6300 for a rigger to move it.

Who knows what I've spent on heads blades and bits.

It's been an expensive year.

[Martin Wasner]

martin which lipping planer did you get? i'm seriously considering one...

-- dz

Lamello.

Get the Lamello.

The other ones cost less, but they're not the Lamello.

You want the Lamello.

[Patrick Walsh]

Does the lamello really work that much better than the Festool one?

[Martin Wasner]

Does the lamello really work that much better than the Festool one?

I haven't used the Festool one. Isn't it just a trim router with a goofy handle?

The lamello has a cone shaped cutter at an angle so it cuts in shear. It does an outstanding job. You can dial it right in where you want. Like remove part of a pick line when you mark it up with a pencil.

I didn't know what a lipping planer was a year ago. I wish I would've bought one ten years ago. All of our wood shelves get a solid wood edge. We used to glue, nail, clamp, then belt sand and hit it with a da. Now we cut a rabbet in the shelf making a tongue, the tongue goes in a groove on the shelf edge. We just glue, clamp, hit it with the lipping planer and da them.

There's the Virutex and Hoffman also. Everything I read said get the Lamello. I don't have any regrets despite the high entry fee.

[Jeff Duncan]

I bought the Virutex one years ago and it's worth every penny it cost. If the Lamello is better, it's likely worth what it costs as well! Great specialty tools that once you have you can't imagine living without!

good luck,
JeffD

[Patrick Walsh]

I’ve seen the lamello on YouTube but it was long ago.

The festool is kinda just like a trim router but it runs with the Handle oriented paralel to the workpiece kinda like the lamello. You can dial the cutter into the workpiece exactly as to trim your hardwood nosing perfecly flush with your plywood shelf and then like your doing hit it wil a DA.. it doesn’t leave the nasty bearing marks trim routers often do.

It’s not perfect but way better than a trim router for the task.

I haven't used the Festool one. Isn't it just a trim router with a goofy handle?

The lamello has a cone shaped cutter at an angle so it cuts in shear. It does an outstanding job. You can dial it right in where you want. Like remove part of a pick line when you mark it up with a pencil.

I didn't know what a lipping planer was a year ago. I wish I would've bought one ten years ago. All of our wood shelves get a solid wood edge. We used to glue, nail, clamp, then belt sand and hit it with a da. Now we cut a rabbet in the shelf making a tongue, the tongue goes in a groove on the shelf edge. We just glue, clamp, hit it with the lipping planer and da them.

There's the Virutex and Hoffman also. Everything I read said get the Lamello. I don't have any regrets despite the high entry fee.

[David Zaret]

lamello it is. thanks.

Lamello.

Get the Lamello.

The other ones cost less, but they're not the Lamello.

You want the Lamello.

[peter gagliardi]

Interesting on the Lamello.
I have in the back room, a lipping planer made by JKO I think in the UK. It is a dual head model, does top and bottom at once with an auto feed feature- feed wheels top and bottom. Adjustable for thickness. About the same footprint as a small shaper.
We do solid edge shelves as well, and I have never, ever given it a second thought, or look!
We do a rabbeted edge, and glue 8’ rips edge to edge, then cut to length, with just the disc sander to flush them before spray.

[David Zaret]

peter, i'm fascinated by this. you use the disc sander to flush the top edge of the applied hardwood to the plywood? how the heck is this done?

-- dz

[Martin Wasner]

peter, i'm fascinated by this. you use the disc sander to flush the top edge of the applied hardwood to the plywood? how the heck is this done?

-- dz

In this area, hand held random orbit sanders are commonly referred to as a "D.A." which is for "Disk Abrasive".

If the edging is close enough to flush, you just sand it.

[David Zaret]

oh - i pictured holding a shelf up to a huge spinning disc sander, and couldn't for the life of me see how that would work. ROS. yes. that. thanks.

[James Biddle]

so, is an OMGA redundant for those with sliders?

[Martin Wasner]

so, is an OMGA redundant for those with sliders?

It's just a chop saw.

[James Biddle]

Sorry, do you prefer to cut your sticks for door and face frame parts on the slider or does the OMGA offer something where you prefer to use it? I could see an OMGA, combined with some type of positioning system, as being the preferred station for those cuts. (I'm trying to talk myself into buying one).

[Martin Wasner]

I don't have a sliding tablesaw.

I use the omga's on the assembly benches where they are very general use. Cutting nailers, shelf edging, door stop, stretchers, wrap for wood tops, any trim installed in the shop, etc.

Door and face frame parts are cut on a pop up saw with a digital fence.

We do have Biesemeyer stops on the benches.

There's nothing special in the capability of the omga saws, they're just very well built and accurate. They also hold up to abuse well.


There's a few things I wish we had a small slider for, but I don't know where I'd put it