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Thread: Dovetail Jig

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post

    But if you're doing a chest of drawers, every drawer is a different size (generally drawers are bigger on the bottom and smaller as you go up). That means you have have to go through a different set-up for every drawer.
    Unless you use the Keller jig which will not require a different set up each time, unless you chose to change set-up for aesthetics, in which case it would take you seconds.

    In general I agree that the shine of a jig gets brighter with volume. Learning to hand cut dovetails is not only worthwhile but can be very enjoyable and rewarding too. There is a place for both methods.

  2. #17
    Did I read that correctly..... The Leigh dovetail jig is for use with 3/4" stock only?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,957
    No, Michael. I just keep mine set up for 3/4" stock. I keep two dedicated routers set up for that thickness. I don't have time to fiddle around with changing setups. The only thing I change is pin spacing. It's only useful to me if I can just pull it out, and produce work, which is a lot different than doing it for a hobby.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    943
    My experience with Rockler jigs of all types (and I don't own the dovetail jig) is that, while they are inexpensive, they also tend to be somewhat inaccurate. In this case, it might be a great starting place to get some experience with cutting details with a router/jig, but I doubt you will be satisfied in the longer term if you start doing a lot of dovetailed drawers, etc. Dust collection is definitely worth the extra cost, but in the case of this jig don't know if it is, in fact, effective. A lot of chips and dust are created.

    While you can certainly learn to cut dovetails by hand, as suggested, I found the learning curve for me was just too long and I didn't cut enough to keep up my skills or develop my own process. Plus, if you really want to do the hand cut dovetail thing right, you will need to invest in some high quality hand tools no matter what anyone says. They aren't cheap either.

    Last, as someone else has already said, the Rockler jig only allows fixed spacing which means your dovetails are limited in design and look. I don't know about the Keller, but getting a jig which allows for variable spacing and gets high ratings for dust collection would be recommended because then you will not be disappointed and have more flexibility for projects.

    Dedicating a router to the dovetail jig is a good idea as then setup is easier and it's ready when you are.

    Do some research and make comparisons of prices, capability, and dust collection ratings. Then decide based on what projects you are likely to do or what your first project will be. Nothing wrong with cheap if you are just getting started; just you might not be satisfied with that in the long term.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Cashiers NC
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    603
    Although it is limited to through dovetails, the Keller jig is the easiest to use. After the initial prep there is almost no setup. I use mine on the router table even for large pieces up to 3 feet long. I have very little dust.
    Charlie Jones

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Jones View Post
    Although it is limited to through dovetails, the Keller jig is the easiest to use. After the initial prep there is almost no setup. I use mine on the router table even for large pieces up to 3 feet long. I have very little dust.
    I've always used mine in the vise and it's very messy. I'm going to have to give the router table method a try now that I have a decent router table.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Heinemann View Post
    Plus, if you really want to do the hand cut dovetail thing right, you will need to invest in some high quality hand tools no matter what anyone says. They aren't cheap either.
    I would disagree with your comment about needing expensive tools to make hand cut dovetails. For years, I used a small dozuki saw (I think I paid about $35 for it) and my standard bench chisels. I don't remember what I paid for my chisels, but somewhere about $100 for the ones I used. Of course, those were not dedicated dovetail tools. I also used a wheel marking gauge and a dovetail saddle marker from LV and a marking knife. I cut a lot of dovetails with that kit.

    Hand cut dovetails are not expensive to cut, but you do need to learn how to cut them properly. Getting instruction from someone experienced will go a long way, if you don't feel your skill is up to what it should be.

    Since those early days, I've bought, and used, other tools, such as the Lie Nielsen dovetail saw and the Knew Concepts fret saw. Also, the TiteMark wheel marking gauge. But those tools are definitely optional and not required to be able to make high quality dovetails.

    Mike

    P.S. "It is a poor workman who blames his tools."
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 12-14-2018 at 6:09 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    My great grandfather was a professional furniture maker for a store in the Lebanon, PA area nearly 100 years ago. I have a footstool he made and my sister has a small freestanding cabinet with a drawer. From what I have heard from my father, he worked in the back of the store and made furniture to order, mostly by hand using ordinary hand tools of the day. What's interesting is the dovetails in the cabinet drawer are workmanlike, but not the works of art we often see in contemporary work. A number of the joints are shimmed and they are somewhat irregular, but they got the job done. The footstool I have has some nice inlay stringing; my dad said it looked like his small tools for inlay work appeared to be hand forged out of nails.

  9. #24
    Dave,
    I have repaired a lot of "American Country" furniture made in the mid west and have never encountered fancy dovetails with tiny pins. I believe they were mostly done by eye, without layout other than a depth mark and repaired when necessary. Rarely do the joints fail.

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