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Thread: Lumber Grades / Kitchen Table

  1. #1

    Lumber Grades / Kitchen Table

    So I was going to use some 2x12's to make a farmhouse type kitchen table. HD and LOWES basically have #2 SYP in stock. If I go to a lumber yard, or order #1, or even Select, do you think it would be worth while, or should I just rummage through the #2 stuff they have and find ones that satisfy my liking? I assume the higher grades have less knots.

    Any thoughts, or should I look at other lumber? I want the table to be about 4' wide, 12' long. I figured about 5 2x12's, jointed down and glued up. Not sure about the ends, if breadboard, or just leave grain exposed.

  2. #2
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    Appearance is key...so that's what needs to ultimately guide your final choice. That said, please keep in mind that "construction lumber", while "kiln dried" is substantially wetter than is normally best for furniture building. What you might want to consider is ordering some nice VG Douglas Fir from a "real" lumber yard for your project as that can be had in fully kiln dried state. Yes, it costs more. But it will make your life easier for your project. If you want pine, you can also likely obtain white pine or yellow pine the same way that is properly dried.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    If you are very picky you can find some decent 2x12s at the box store, but the best 2x12s there are worse than the worst 2x12s I got from the local lumberyard. I assume they were #1 grade but I'm not 100% sure. The lumberyard 2x12s were roughsawn, a full 12" wide and about 2-1/8" thick. I bought a couple hundred boardfeet and there were only one or two knots in the bunch, perfectly straight otherwise. Also, they were properly kiln dried instead of half-dried to 19% like construction lumber. If I recall I paid about $1.95 bd/ft, the box store 2x12x16 works out to about $1.10 or so.

    If you are going to make the table out of flatsawn 2x12s, you will want either a substantial breadboard or some stout battens underneath. Each board will have a propensity to cup. If you go with construction lumber, stack and sticker it for a few weeks at least to let the MC drop some, that should help the pieces stay stable. But with the way they dry them, there will always be a few boards that behave oddly once you start working them, so it would be a good idea to buy a few extra and only use the most stable ones.

  4. #4
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    Thats just too big of a table to consider wood from the borg. Why so wide? Im all in for long tables I think it’s great.but 4ft wide there’s going to be a lot of dead space in the middle. Hard to reach.
    Aj

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    Thats just too big of a table to consider wood from the borg. Why so wide? Im all in for long tables I think it’s great.but 4ft wide there’s going to be a lot of dead space in the middle. Hard to reach.
    Got to have room for centerpieces right?? Im just building what I have been told to build.

  6. #6
    My other option is hard wood, I have plenty of what I think is ash, i dont think its 12' long though. Also was going for the thick look, but I could thicken up the eges on the outside.

    I think I will inquire about some rough sawn pine too then. Thanks

  7. #7
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    Bring a BORG 2x12 into your shop this time of year and you will probably be able to listen to it crack. Major shrinkage, cracking, cupping, etc. As mentioned, that's a huge table. Doug Fir weighs about 30lbs/ cubic foot air dried. That works out to 180 pounds. Hope whoever told you to make it that size will be willing to help you move it around the shop for sanding and handling!

  8. #8
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    Pine is ok for a picnic table because it has gaps to accommodate movement and a stout frame to keep the top kinda in a plane. And the expectation is that a can of bottle will start up without falling over in most spots.

    If you want to build something better than that you will want better wood. Three basic construction methods for the top.

    1. Solid wood

    2. Solid wood with breadboard ends

    3. A stable core of sheet goods (plywood) laminated.

    What supports that,,,about a hundred choices.

    Not to seem negative but you might want to develop your skills on something smaller before you buy wood. Or at least mock up some parts.

    a. Make a section of table top 4' wide x 6" long and work out your glueup and edge shape

    b. Mock up each of the joints you plan to use.

    c. Test your finishing schedule.

    Woodworking is a long and rewarding journey. Enjoy it

    Tom

  9. #9
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    Jim

    One thing that you'll find about pine, or spruce, is that it is getting ever more difficult to buy it in quality grades.
    I get the attraction of using construction grade lumber for tables, and right now it's very popular, but I personally wouldn't do it. If I was going to spend that amount of time building a table of the size you're detailing,I'd want to use higher quality materials.
    I am really not trying to rain on your parade, but you're getting ready to do a lot of work. Make it worth it.
    Craigslist sometimes has some great lumber deals for sale in the materials section. Worth a look.

    PS
    I might also buy 2 sheets of cheap luan and lay that table out so that the "client" realizes just how big it's going to be.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 12-10-2018 at 5:29 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  10. #10
    I built a trestle table out of No. 1 SYP that was special ordered from Menards. It was originally going to be hard maple but this was at the tail end of a long kitchen, dining, family room remodel project so I slapped something together that was cheap and functional as a prototype for the final hard maple table. The lumber looked pretty good and was cheap enough I could order extra and select the best. But, it still moved, a lot... like a real lot and in all directions. This table is in our kitchen and we have used it for a few years now. It seems to have stopped moving and we like the table but it was a frustrating experience working with even “better” grade construction lumber. Our table is about 6’ long and 36” wide. I think the frustration with wood movement would increase the longer the table gets. I got to the point where I said good enough and moved on so we had somewhere to eat.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    Thats just too big of a table to consider wood from the borg. Why so wide? Im all in for long tables I think it’s great.but 4ft wide there’s going to be a lot of dead space in the middle. Hard to reach.
    +1 on the width. Probably 20 years ago I built our dining room table which is 4' by 8'. Now and then I wonder if perhaps 40" wide might not have been better. Don't get me wrong. 4' wide is not that bad really, and with a table that is 12' long, might actually look better than a narrow one.

    Just make sure you have ample space on the sides of the table for people to pass by while others are sitting at the table...

    Bill
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  12. Why not get some good plywood. Many fewer problems.

  13. #13
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    I built a workbenches out of Borg grade 2 x 4,'s but a table.. not going to happen.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Doug Fir weighs about 30lbs/ cubic foot air dried. That works out to 180 pounds. Hope whoever told you to make it that size will be willing to help you move it around the shop for sanding and handling!
    It wouldn't be that bad to move around, err well flip over. I built a 42x120 6/4 sapele (132" before final sizing) and i managed to move it around/flip it to sand and stain myself.

    Though moving the finished table is a 2 person affair with the top and base moved independently.

    That said, i'd use poplar before I killed myself trying to make wet 2x12s stay put in a table. At least around here 8/4 x 12"+ wide poplar in those lenghts is cheap and easy to find

  15. #15
    I have a lumber yard by me that sells #1 grade construction lumber cheaper than the borgs sell #2. I don't even buy construction lumber at the borgs anymore. See if you have one by you.

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