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  1. #1

    Primer Question

    I pretty much use BIN shellac based for virtually everything. For a couple reasons, short drying time, sealing and sandability.

    If you use a different primer I'm interested in knowing what you like about it?

  2. #2
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    Primer choice depends entirely on the selected top coat. I always do research and use the best available designed system. Products are always from the one manufacturer for a given coating system but I use different manufacturers for different classes of work. Cheers

  3. #3
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    The other primer I use a lot of, besides the BIN, is Sherwin-Williams Premium Wood and Wall. They say it can be brushed, or rolled, but the only way I'd use it is with airless. I expect it could be sprayed with HVLP with a large tip, but I don't have any reason to try it. You can spray it with the same tips you use for Pro Classic.

    It can be built up thicker than the BIN in one coat. Sanding it, you would think that it sands as easily, but it seems to be a much more durable coat, and doesn't sand through as easily as the BIN, even on corners.

    As with other Sherwin Williams high end products, it's far from cheap, but well worth the price for high end work. I doubt many use it on walls, just because of the cost, but if you want a perfectly smooth surface under semi-gloss, or even gloss, it's hard to do without it. It machine sands likely, and if I'm doing a wall that I want perfectly smooth, I'll run a ROS over it with 220 grit. You don't have to stay on it long, but it smooths right down perfectly.

    On wood moldings, the look is much smoother than even the best job with BIN.

    You would think that a waterbourne would raise bare wood grain some, but if it does, it's not enough to matter.

  4. #4
    I've been really happy with target coatings hsf5000 primer. I shoot it slightly thinned with a 2.5mm needle in hvlp. I still get some splattering, but after 2 coats, sanding in between and after, it is uniform.

  5. #5
    +1 for SW Wood & Wallboard primer out of an airless rig.

  6. #6
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    I was all about BIN until I found a new supplier for my finishing. I'm now spraying pigmented conversion varnishes for my painting applications. Primer: Clawlock II. Top coat: Stealth.

    I will still use BIN, but my primary primer is now ClawlockII by ML Campbell. It has to be thinned/reduced 40% to spray with an HVLP gravity gun using a 2.2 tip. PDS recommends thinning/reducing 30%
    -Lud

  7. #7
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    Question for you guys using SW Wood and Wall. Do you thin it at all or use it as is? I know SW says "...we never recommend thinning any of our coatings..." but I recently used some and it seemed a bit thick to me. Also, what size tip are you using?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Bueler View Post
    Question for you guys using SW Wood and Wall. Do you thin it at all or use it as is? I know SW says "...we never recommend thinning any of our coatings..." but I recently used some and it seemed a bit thick to me. Also, what size tip are you using?
    I had to thin the SW primer 18% in order to spray it through my gravity feed HVLP gun with a 1.8 mm N/N, the largest I had. Now that I have a pressure assisted HVLP gun I can spray it with less than 5% thinner (water) through a 1.5 mm N/N.

    FWIW, I like the SW primer but I like BIN pigmented shellac primer more. The viscosity is around 35 seconds #4 Ford cup compared to 400 - 500 sec. for the SW primer so it's easy to spray with nearly any gun, plus it dries very quickly, sands well (though not quite as well as SW), and hides great.

    John

  9. #9
    John,

    How many coats of the BIN do you typically use?


    I also like BIN because I can spray with no thinning through larger tipped gun. (I think its 2.0mm).

    I'm using 2 hefty coats this usually leaves me a decent surface, but sometimes I think it could be better.

  10. #10
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    Typically, 2 coats. All I'm looking for from the primer is to seal the wood and make it generally opaque. I sand the first coat and go over it really well to find/fill the defects I didn't see in the bare wood. The second coat I don't sand unless there are runs or other spraying defects to deal with. Those areas I sand and shoot another really light coat over.

    John

  11. #11
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    Tim, No thinning needed with an airless. Unthinned, one coat of Wood and Wall can be built up to equal two, or three of the BIN, but the HVLP that I spray the BIN through does require it to be thinned, so that may very well factor in. I quit spraying anything but water through the airless rig for cleaning reasons.

    I am assuming you're asking about an HVLP tip, but for airless tips, I use 208, 310, or 515 all FFLP.
    Last edited by Tom M King; 12-19-2018 at 7:23 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Tim, No thinning needed with an airless. Unthinned, one coat of Wood and Wall can be built up to equal two, or three of the BIN, but the HVLP that I spray the BIN through does require it to be thinned, so that may very well factor in. I quit spraying anything but water through the airless rig for cleaning reasons.

    I am assuming you're asking about an HVLP tip, but for airless tips, I use 208, 310, or 515 all FFLP.
    Tom, thank you! I am talking about an airless. I don't remember what tip size. It was on the small end of the recommended sizes, but I do know it's not a FFLP. I did use a 310 FFLP on the top coat, SW Emerald, and it came out great (considering I'm a cabinet maker and NOT a painter ). Next painted cabinet job I'll try the 310 FFLP on the primer as well.

    Thank you!

  13. #13
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    That should work fine, even at the same pressure as the Emerald. I recently did a job with Wood and Wall, and with Pro Classic as the top coat. I didn't have to touch the pressure when switching coatings. If your pump doesn't have a gauge, like my old one didn't, it's worth adding the Titan gauge for finding the sweet spot for the LP tips.

    I'm not a painter either, although that's on the long list of things I do for a living.

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