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Thread: Epoxy vs Carbide

  1. #1
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    Epoxy vs Carbide

    I just did my first project with epoxy filled knots... unfortunately some portion of the knots went missing after going through the planer. My question is would my carbide inserts in the planer be damaged if I filled the knots with epoxy first?

  2. #2
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    Not at all, done it lots of times.

  3. #3
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    Thanks. Just got the planer and wantrd to err on the side of caution/fear

  4. #4
    I mix up colored two part epoxy for missing not holes.
    I also use a mix of glue and sawdust.
    This week I seen professorial floor repair workers using cork for repairs.

  5. #5
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    Epoxy Might help cause lose knots and my Byrd head not like each other.

  6. #6
    I am a newbie at the epoxy as a knot/defect filler. What seems to work for me is plane first. Then I filled with epoxy. After it cured one or two days, I carefully scraped it with a flat scraper ever so proud of the surface and then sanded the piece as usual. Seems to have worked for me. I put 3 coats of waterlox over it and it looks pretty good. Interested to see what epoxy guys who ave used it more have to say.

    Cheers

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by eugene thomas View Post
    Epoxy Might help cause lose knots and my Byrd head not like each other.
    How in the world can epoxy cause loose knots? Completely counter intelligent. The dream of epoxy (as opposed to titebond) is that it actually soaks into wood fibers, micro splits and crevices, solidifying the entire section - perfect for knots.
    Mfr of Dichrolam® - The gemstone Opal in sheet form, used by PRS, Fender, Martin etc, and Chatoyant Carbon Fiber™ - molded CF with higher 3D flash than Koa, seen in supercars to 1911 grips - Quilted, Wild Ribbon Flame, etc. in solid and veneer stock.
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Cav View Post
    Not at all, done it lots of times.
    To elaborate (previous post was from my phone), for example, last year I made a run of 18 interior alder frame and panel doors. The 8/4 stock for the rails and stiles was pretty clear but in a number of cases I had to fill knots, some relatively large. I used regular slow set epoxy (12 to 18 hours for a full cure) that I dyed with transtint and sometimes added sawdust. My normal procedure was to rip and rough plane to approximate size, then fill the knots, then finish plane, rip and mill, then assemble the doors, then send them through the widebelt. No problems at all. I have a Powermatic PM180 with a Byrd head.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by John Blazy View Post
    How in the world can epoxy cause loose knots? Completely counter intelligent. The dream of epoxy (as opposed to titebond) is that it actually soaks into wood fibers, micro splits and crevices, solidifying the entire section - perfect for knots.
    I completely retract my comment, now that I understand your grammar. I think Eugene meant "epoxy might help because loose knots and his Byrd head doesn't like each other. See how important grammar is?
    Mfr of Dichrolam® - The gemstone Opal in sheet form, used by PRS, Fender, Martin etc, and Chatoyant Carbon Fiber™ - molded CF with higher 3D flash than Koa, seen in supercars to 1911 grips - Quilted, Wild Ribbon Flame, etc. in solid and veneer stock.
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

  10. #10
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    Just to be clear I had complete knots and the planer destroyed them because they were unstable

  11. #11
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    Well since someone misunder stood my last post. I have turned lot of Byrd knives into tiny pieces from knots so MENT if epoxy the knot before feeding to planer it would not be as likely to turn the Byrd cutters into flying srapnel.
    Last edited by eugene thomas; 12-07-2018 at 10:36 PM.

  12. #12
    If I have a loose knot, just knock it out, then later after the board is planed I fill it with bondo. To color, just take a magic marker and color it before finishing. Tried dieing, did not work. Can you color epoxy?

  13. #13
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    I used black acrylic paint(post planing) to colour my epoxy with no problems.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Andrew View Post
    If I have a loose knot, just knock it out, then later after the board is planed I fill it with bondo. To color, just take a magic marker and color it before finishing. Tried dieing, did not work. Can you color epoxy?
    Yes- you can buy dyes made for coloring epoxy, but you can mix graphite powder, a TINY dab of acrylic paint (test first- works with west system and by tiny I mean a drop or two), or photocopier toner. I've done all of the above many times to make black epoxy for gluing in black surfboard leash cups and fin boxes. I have used colored toner from laser jet printers to color the hot coat on surfboards.

    Magic marker-even permanent kind- will bleed when wet out with epoxy and many clear coats.

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