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Thread: Advice on miter saw dust collection port size

  1. #16
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    I directed mine into a stud cavity with a 6" at the bottom. No collection at the saw port, it just spits into the stud cavity using an old rubber 90 from my dad's old Dewalt RAS..
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    NOW you tell me...

  2. #17
    Thanks. I also have many long term "temporary" setups...

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Ziebron View Post
    I recently bought a new (and hopefully last) miter saw - the Bosch 12 inch slider. I have a 3HP cyclone DC with 6 inch pipes in my shop. I made a larger rubber shroud to replace the original and so far have only used the saw DC port connected to one of my shop vacs until I can get it permanently connected to the larger system.

    I intend to branch off and connect a smaller (probably 2 1/2 inch line) to the saw port and a larger line to a shroud that I'll be making to cover the area near the bottom of the saw. My dilemma is the size of the line going to my home made shroud. I know that a full 6 inch line will give me more CFM and a 4 inch line will give me more velocity. I'm not sure which will work better in this application and am looking for advice/comments. Sorry if this topic has been covered before; I have read a lot of threads on miter saw dust collection already.
    John, is this saw the Glide saw? I made a shroud that captures near enough to everything for my Glider and can post pics if needed.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    John, is this saw the Glide saw? I made a shroud that captures near enough to everything for my Glider and can post pics if needed.
    Chris, yes, this is the Bosch 12" glide saw. It replaced my DeWalt DWS780 when I needed more room. I'd love to see some pics of your shroud.

  5. #20
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    John, my apologies for the delay but here it is. The one big draw back is that the saw cannot be rolled fully left and right but the offending bits of the shroud could be hinged or even made removeable if needed. I am using a CV1800 to power the hood through a single 6" duct and it collects nearly everything. I put it on a sliding base as the fences each side are fixed and if I use a sub fence on the saw I can wind it in or out to line up the fences. All dust goes in the bottom and drawn out the top so it needs a good dust extractor to make this hood work. The curved plenum is made from 3mm MDF, I made a rough form, wet the MDF and clamped it to the form for a few days to dry. The bottom inlet must be sized to at least match the area of a 6" duct. Any questions or if I can be of further help please ask.

    Sliding Base.JPG

    Glide Saw Installed.jpg

    Blast Gate Installed in Top Plenum.JPG

    Air Entry at Bottom of Hood.JPG
    IMG_1580.JPG

    IMG_1581.JPG
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    Last edited by Chris Parks; 12-14-2018 at 11:04 PM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  6. #21
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    Continuing due to post limitations.


    IMG_1595 Plenum Shown.jpg
    IMG_1598.jpg
    Top View.jpg
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    Last edited by Chris Parks; 12-14-2018 at 11:05 PM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  7. #22
    I don't have a miter saw and wasn't going to reply to this thread but thought I'd go ahead and show the set-up my radial arm saw since it is a somewhat similar concept.

    I installed a rather basic collector with a 4" port at the bottom connected to a Grizzly 2hp dust collector. Prior to this, my wall and floor was covered with sawdust after any use and after the modification I only have minimal sawdust, primarily in front of the fence. I would think that anything 4" or up would have a good chance of giving good performance (depending on the design), though anything below might be questionable.

    I've attached a few pictures to show the set-up. Please excuse the blade that is on the saw and it is pretty rough. I occasionally work with reclaimed wood and prior to stacking & storage I will remove unusable and nail-filled sections, so use an old blade to save wear and prevent damage to my better blades.


    RAS DC 1.jpgRAS DC 2.jpgRAS DC 3.jpg

  8. #23
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    Chris, thanks for posting all the pics and explanation. I really like your design and will now plan on going that route. I especially like that even though the collection area is at the bottom and the DC duct is at the top the saw is still very close to the wall (the reason I bought the Bosch).

    The idea of having some forward/aft movement to accommodate a sacrificial fence is also very good. I always use 1/2" MDF for such fences. So instead of using a knob and threaded rod I would use a couple of 1/4" pins on that forward cross piece and have 2 holes (1 set on each side) drilled 1/2" apart on the base. That would make my changeover faster and my big hands wouldn't have to fumble around with a knob under the slider since you really have to adjust it at 0 degrees.

    My one question would be about your factory dust chute. I see that you have the original 90 degree rubber fitting on yours. If you are cutting a 45 or greater miter to the right does some sawdust escape from that fitting being so close to the left front of the shroud?

  9. #24
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    It doesn't seem to cause any problems but I will remove it and see what happens. I did have it hooked up to the plenum of a previous hood with a small hose but the whole hood was a hopeless case converted from when I had a different saw. I move the sliding base with a cordless drill on the nut, it was very handy doing the initial fence set up to get it spot on. My bench fences are sitting on pins so I can lift them off and use the benches as needed.
    Last edited by Chris Parks; Yesterday at 8:51 PM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

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