Yep....Watch that contact cement... if you touch down before your ready you will have some choice words to say....
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Yep....Watch that contact cement... if you touch down before your ready you will have some choice words to say....
Contributor
Personally, I would oversize everything. Use the contact cement to adhere the two pieces of MDF substrate together. Make sure it is very dry before sticking. then glue the laminate down with contact cement. If you can't spray it (which I assume you can't) then pour out a small puddle in the center and roll it out with a cheapo disposable roller. Again, glue both surfaces and let dry completely. Stick the P-lam and roll it out good with a J roller. Then use the table saw to cut it to size. Make your rough pieces well oversized to compensate for the out of square condition you will have after the glue up. To square it, cut one side, then put the cut side against the fence and cut again. now you have 2 parallel sides. Use a crosscut sled (or a miter gauge) to square the other 2 sides. Also I'd skip the wood edge and use a rubber T-mold like someone above suggested. There is very little chance you will end up with a dead-flat top if you apply wood edge to it, whether before or after laminating, and the goal for a router table is to be dead flat.
Some of the other suggestions are good too, and there's more than one way to pull this off. I do laminate & commercial casework for a living, and this is just how I would do it.
BTW, lacquer thinner is the best solvent for contact cement. Good luck!
---Trudging the Road of Happy Destiny---
[OP]
Member
Thanks for the overwhelming response. I think I learned everything I needed to know here. Based on the responses, I am rethinking the hardwood edge. It was only for looks. The base cabinet will be kitchen quality with all raised panels, so I thought it would be a nice touch. Maybe I will just cover the edge with laminate also .
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A few years ago I did just what you are talking about. 2 layers of mdf glued together with normal wood glue, Formica brand laminate, and maple edging. After gluing the mdf, I cut it to finished size, then laminated it, then flush trimmed it, and added the edging with normal wood glue.
A couple of things I don't see mentioned above. One, almost everyone mentioned cutting it with a table saw (since you asked anyway), but I cut it with my die grinder with cutoff wheel. Works very well, and smells WONderful.Next, I used the Weldwood brand of contact cement, and there are two types. Red can (oil? based), and green can (water based). They both work well, but I prefer the red can because it was easier to get spread evenly because it takes a little longer to tack. I usually use one of those 4" paint rollers when applying the cement. Also, I used dowels to keep the two pieces separated while aligning the laminate, but I read somewhere that someone recommended waxing them. I did that and it made them very easy to remove when needed with no adverse effects. I have also used unwaxed bare dowels and that worked too. Lastly, the recommended procedure is to start in the middle and work outward in all directions, and it is probably the best way to do it. But I started by aligning the laminate on the dowels, and then applied the laminate starting at one end and worked across an inch or two at a time using a j-roller making sure to eliminate all air pockets. I don't think I would have done it this way on a larger piece, but it came out great.
Wayne
P.S. I don't think I would use black again.
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Moderator
This is actually a good method for shop use because there's no possibility of catching anything on the edge. I think I mentioned that on my previous response. It looks clean, too, and any minor variations in the work surface you have from constructing it are masked when you route the edges of the laminate.Originally Posted by Brian Behrens
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
For a router table the hardwood S/E is a good idea, but I’d recommend it go under the P. Lam
top.
I wrote about that in post # 3 or 4.
[OP]
Member
I decided I will definitely run the laminate over the hardwood edge, then bevel the edge at 45 with a chamfer bit. Thanks to everyone for all the help.
The top will be large (36*60) to accommodate my 25" incra positioner and the projects I have in mind. I am concerned about the 1.5" mdf sagging over time. Does anyone have any suggestions to address sag prevention? I am considering inlaying some angle iron on the bottom with epoxy and screws, and running some hickory stretchers across the 36" width.
Also, is it necessary to cover the bottom of the tabletop with laminate? I do have enough laminate to do this.
[OP]
Member
My Incra package arrived after only 4 weeks. Incra initially told me there was an 8 week lead time, so
it was a nice surprise! Here's what I'm working with for this router table build . The laminate is Formica brand in the "timberworks" color .The cabinet will be raised panel drawers/doors in soft maple since I have a bunch leftover from my work bench build.
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Last edited by Brian Behrens; 12-13-2018 at 9:06 AM.
Member
Hey Brian,
No need for that. Yes, laminate both sides this stabilizes the top & you won't have to worry about sagging. But If you're still worried run a couple cross braces either side of the router if you want. Can't recall if this is going to be a cabinet in which case the router will be enclosed and the sides of the router box will support the top on either side.
Good choice on the edge treatment. I was going to say the issue with laminating the edge is sharp corners which is a no-no for shop use.
Show us some pics when you're done. Here's mine: 27X43" top. I've since redone the fence. Bottom drawers hold handheld routers.
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Member
I used the MDF table top sold by Woodpeckers when I put my system together. It's covered with laminate on both sides, which I think is the right way to go. They suggested sealing any exposed areas, like the edges of the insert hole, which I did as well. Used Danish Oil, if memory serves.
I thought about using stretchers of some kind underneath, but ended up just putting a thickness of 3/4" Baltic Birch under the top. That's worked fine over a couple of years, still nice and flat.
Don't know what your plans entail for dust collection, but I later added the Incra dust bucket under there. Glad I didn't go with stretchers, as that would have been a bit of a mess to undo.
[OP]
Member
Beautiful setup Robert. What kind of wood is that?
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