Suggestions for removing rust on spiral head on jointer

[Van Huskey]

Now Van, surely you take the mufflers off of your fine automobiles and polish them monthly, don’t you? It should only take 10 minutes or so if you have the skills...

I'll have to consult with my Curator of Automotive Art and get back with you. I am not sure what the exact exhaust polishing protocol we are currently following on the estate.

[Darcy Warner]

I would do a combo of both recommendations. Run a few Hardwood boards over the cutterhead then access. If there is still rust, I would clean the head/cutters manually as suggested. Rust in ANY form is never acceptable on my machines or hand tools. I treat my machines like the custom motorcycles.

I just use them, it keeps them naturally clean. No need to detail and polish my users.

[Matt Day]

It would take 10 minutes to don all the safety gear Simon would surely require too. Safety glasses, face shield, rubber gloves, chain mail, flack jacket, combat boots, some chainsaw chaps, etc.

Regarding cleaning the head, of it bothers you I think Cary has the simplest and easiest solution.

And likely the jointer will be in a conditioned space now that it’s outnof storage, so the rust wouldn’t keep growing.

[Simon MacGowen]

I think some might want to reexamine the picture and see how LITTLE rust is on the head. A LOT of what you are seeing is not rust, just look at the carbide inserts and compare what you are seeing on them (not rust) to what is on the steel portion of the head, it is largely the same thing.

Good point, Van, as dust, lighting and camera angle could affect the actual state of the rust condition in that photo. Clean up the surface with WD 40, revealing the actual condition, and we'll have a better idea of what needs to be done.

If the rust is light or minimal and as suggested by John S., run the cutter against some stock to see if it will remove the mark. If not, try scrubbing it away with WD 40 or T-9 and a scotch-brite pad.

If the rust is still there, not superficial rust as some have suggested, a complete rust removal process should be followed. Again, whether it's worth doing that is the OP's judgement. Like John, I keep all my tools and machines rust-free as practicable as I can. Rust never sleeps is how I have been trained. Rust-free, however, also does not necessarily mean shiny though.

I do know some people will let a tool (e.g., a shovel) rust through, preferring not to do any maintenance work, and just buy a new one. We all have choices that we can make.


Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

It would take 10 minutes to don all the safety gear Simon would surely require too. Safety glasses, face shield, rubber gloves, chain mail, flack jacket, combat boots, some chainsaw chaps, etc.

Matt,

I take that "etc." includes this too: http://tinyurl.com/yape2twb

Edit: Still upset about the tablesaw discussion? Let it go, man. It was just a forum exchange!

Simon

[Tyler Bancroft]

Evapo-rust does make a gel that is supposed to cling to surfaces rather than requiring immersion. (Haven't used it, just mentioning it.)

[Matt Day]

Matt,

I take that "etc." includes this too: http://tinyurl.com/yape2twb

Edit: Still upset about the tablesaw discussion? Let it go, man. It was just a forum exchange!

Simon

Just ribbing you!

[Simon MacGowen]

Just ribbing you!

Ok. Wishing you back a safe and peaceful holiday season.

Simon