Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
It would take 10 minutes to don all the safety gear Simon would surely require too. Safety glasses, face shield, rubber gloves, chain mail, flack jacket, combat boots, some chainsaw chaps, etc.
Regarding cleaning the head, of it bothers you I think Cary has the simplest and easiest solution.
And likely the jointer will be in a conditioned space now that it’s outnof storage, so the rust wouldn’t keep growing.
Good point, Van, as dust, lighting and camera angle could affect the actual state of the rust condition in that photo. Clean up the surface with WD 40, revealing the actual condition, and we'll have a better idea of what needs to be done.
If the rust is light or minimal and as suggested by John S., run the cutter against some stock to see if it will remove the mark. If not, try scrubbing it away with WD 40 or T-9 and a scotch-brite pad.
If the rust is still there, not superficial rust as some have suggested, a complete rust removal process should be followed. Again, whether it's worth doing that is the OP's judgement. Like John, I keep all my tools and machines rust-free as practicable as I can. Rust never sleeps is how I have been trained. Rust-free, however, also does not necessarily mean shiny though.
I do know some people will let a tool (e.g., a shovel) rust through, preferring not to do any maintenance work, and just buy a new one. We all have choices that we can make.
Simon
Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 12-05-2018 at 7:41 PM.
Matt,
I take that "etc." includes this too: http://tinyurl.com/yape2twb
Edit: Still upset about the tablesaw discussion? Let it go, man. It was just a forum exchange!
Simon
Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 12-05-2018 at 7:43 PM.
Evapo-rust does make a gel that is supposed to cling to surfaces rather than requiring immersion. (Haven't used it, just mentioning it.)