1/4" bandsaw blade

[mark downing]

My bandsaw is a MM16. I've mostly used it for straight cutting and resawing and have never owned a blade smaller than 3/8". I'm about to enter the worlds of toy and bandsaw box making and would like recommendations on blade selection. I'm ok with investing in a carbide tipped blade if advisable.

Also, Mini-Max saw instructions recommend the teeth of the blade slightly extending off the front edge of the upper tire which is not crowned. With a 1/4" or 3/16" blade should it still be positioned that far forward or more centered?
Thanks!

[Van Huskey]

I run the teeth off the front down to 1/4" though I have had small blades that wouldn't track well at the front so I tracked them farther back. There aren't many (if any) 1/4" carbide blades, I would suggest a Lenox bi-metal Diemaster II 1/4" blade if you want something more durable than carbon steel.

When you get down below 1/4" on flat tired saws they become more tricky to track. I have done it but it really does beg for a second smaller saw with crowned tires. In any event, you will need to use you will need to use different guides on an MM16. Either the SCM/Minimax cool block guides, fashion some wooden blocks that get held between the Euro guides or get the Carter Stabilizer. I would suggest the Carter, especially for bandsaw boxes. I think the Stabilizer model you need is the JET1 but verify it.

[Tom M King]

Compare what you need to spend on your saw to the price of a 10" saw.

[Jim Becker]

Mark, I do the same as Van with my MM16, but rarely put on a band narrower than 3/8". I have used as small as a 1/8" blade, but as noted, I had to re-track to the center for that specific band and be really careful with tension.

I also agree with Tom that the best play may be to acquire a smaller saw specifically dedicated to narrow blade usage. I've considered that myself, but haven't really had the projects to support the need.

[Bill Space]

I also agree with Tom that the best play may be to acquire a smaller saw specifically dedicated to narrow blade usage. I've considered that myself, but haven't really had the projects to support the need.

Jim, wait a minute! Since when does the need for another tool require projects to support that need?



On second thought, don't tell me! Wife could stumble on this thread somehow...

[Jim Becker]

Jim, wait a minute! Since when does the need for another tool require projects to support that need?



On second thought, don't tell me! Wife could stumble on this thread somehow...

ROFLOL! Very true, but I'm also conscious of space...I actually have a 14" HFT saw in the adjacent garage that I can refurbish for scrolling if I found I needed that, but to-date, I've not been inspired enough to do it nor do I really have the space since acquiring my CNC. (Which is remarkable for "scrolling" in itself. LOL)

[Tom Bender]

My 17" Grizzly has flat tires and I usually run a 3/16" blade, occasionally a 1/8" or 1/2" blade. I always run it in the center of the tires, never heard of running on the edge. What am I missing here?

[Van Huskey]

My 17" Grizzly has flat tires and I usually run a 3/16" blade, occasionally a 1/8" or 1/2" blade. I always run it in the center of the tires, never heard of running on the edge. What am I missing here?

First, which Grizzly do you have, I am unaware of a 17" Grizzly without a crown.