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Thread: Oneway Live Center assistance

  1. #1

    Oneway Live Center assistance

    Does anyone know what the inside taper of the Oneway Live Center is? I've tried measuring the center pin but can only guess at the angle I would have to use to make a replacement. I often like a smaller longer cup center to get a little further away from the body of the Live Center.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  2. #2
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    You can try drilling a 3/4" hole in a small piece of piece of hardwood thats a tad bit deeper than your center's cup center. Turn that around place it over the cup, and turn that down. Obviously the piece has to be as long as you want you standoff to be.

  3. #3
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    Is this what you are looking for ?? extra point.jpg , I believe it is the standard MT taper for it’s size that is used, but Oneway has a 1-800 number, so you could give them a call and ask.
    Have fun and take care

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Blair View Post
    Does anyone know what the inside taper of the Oneway Live Center is? I've tried measuring the center pin but can only guess at the angle I would have to use to make a replacement. I often like a smaller longer cup center to get a little further away from the body of the Live Center.
    Someone told me recently it was a #0 Morse Taper. I did not measure it myself. From a table:
    Taper/Foot .6246
    Taper/Inch .0521
    Angle From Center 1.4908

    I used to make adapters for the Oneway, threading with 3/4"x10 or simply drilling a hole in a block. I haven't made one since I discovered the Nova live center, my new favorite as an incredibly versatile live center (I bought two!)

    Nova_live_center.jpg

    I realize you probably want to use what you have, but if you ever need another live center you might consider this one.

    It has a #2 morse taper socket and a number of #2MT attachments. I turn special attachments from wood as needed, including things like small tenons to support spindles with holes drilled in the end. I also sometimes like to get the live center further away from the work just as you mentioned to give me some working space, so I made a wooden piece about 4" long with a short morse taper on one end. (It's just flat on the end, not a cup center.)

    JKJ

  5. #5
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    Write Mike Hunter. He is selling an extended version of the Oneway live center point. It's very handy. Don't know if it's on his website yet but you can find contact info here. http://huntertoolsystems.com/

  6. #6
    I'm sure it is standard But there are lots of standard Mts, aren't their or do they all have the same angle only larger or smaller?
    I could try to call Oneway but have emailed them without response.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  7. #7
    Thanks John all of us here can always count on your expertise to help when we have questions. I will for sure keep this in mind but my spending days are about done. This living on a fixed income can suck! this is why I try to make as much as I can as far as tools go in my shop.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  8. #8
    Hey John. I have a small metal lathe and want to make my own extended version. At present I have made a few but I they don't seem to fit as nicely as I would like into the Oneway. Thanks for the suggestion.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  9. #9
    Cindy Drozda sells a set of various shape points for the Oneway live center.
    http://www.cindydrozda.com/html/CenterPoints.html

    Robust American Beauty lathe, 25” swing, electronic variable speed 80-3000 RPM
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    Tinkerer and woodturner
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  10. #10
    If it were me I would put the live centre in the headstock (use adapter sleeves if needed) and clamp a finger indicator in the tool rest. Run the tip back and forth with the compound, on the inside of the taper, on the surface farthest away from you. Adjust the angle until the dial reads zero across the taper. Now set up the tip you want to make and cut the taper. Make sense?

  11. #11
    Thanks Peter. The piece I need to know the taper on is tapered and as such I don't know how to hold it in the chuck to be able to read it? And thanks again to all who have made suggestions BUT I may not have made my self clear. I don't want to purchase any from any supplier I am interested in the MT angle to allow me to make my own. I am now thinking that all MT have the same angle just smaller diameters and if this is the case I can for sure place a different one in my metal lathe chuck and measure the angle. I am not a machinist and as a result am trying to learn as I go. I do have a chart for MT angles but remain a little confused as you can tell.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  12. #12
    Peter. Am I talking to myself?

    What I am trying to get you to do is set your compound on the carriage to the same angle as the socket in the live centre. You don't need to know the actual angle. Once you set the compound you can chuck up a rod and cut it and it will match the centre. So if you make say 3 cup tips about 3" long and set them aside, then set the compound (the one on the carriage that you can angle). Now you can chuck up the partially made cup tips with the cup inside the headstock, put a cutter in the toolholder and cut the taper with the compound only. As long as you leave a little bit of the part round it can be gripped with the jaws of your chuck. You can make some just a little longer than the stock ones or as long as you want. Making several long ones while set up gives you some to trim down in the future without having to do the setup again.

    If you have the angle how are you going to set the compound to make the cut? Or does the lathe have a taper cutting attachment? The markings on the compound are rough at best, and a protractor isn't good enough and I doubt you have a sine bar and the accompanying gauge blocks so matching the lathe to your part is the simplest means. Even with my suggestion you may have to make some fine adjustments to get a perfect fit but you will be close enough to do it with fine paper.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Blair View Post
    Thanks Peter. The piece I need to know the taper on is tapered and as such I don't know how to hold it in the chuck to be able to read it? And thanks again to all who have made suggestions BUT I may not have made my self clear. I don't want to purchase any from any supplier I am interested in the MT angle to allow me to make my own. I am now thinking that all MT have the same angle just smaller diameters and if this is the case I can for sure place a different one in my metal lathe chuck and measure the angle. I am not a machinist and as a result am trying to learn as I go. I do have a chart for MT angles but remain a little confused as you can tell.
    I think he meant measuring the taper inside the socket of the live center, perhaps using a dial test indicator held rigidly, and advance the tailstock quill a known amount, then calculate the angle.

    For some reason the different Morse tapers are all different angles.

    There are tables:
    https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapers.php
    http://www.drill-hq.com/2012/04/mors...ensions-chart/
    https://www.shars.com/specification-...-specification

    JKJ

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I think he meant measuring the taper inside the socket of the live center, perhaps using a dial test indicator held rigidly, and advance the tailstock quill a known amount, then calculate the angle.

    For some reason the different Morse tapers are all different angles.

    There are tables:
    https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapers.php
    http://www.drill-hq.com/2012/04/mors...ensions-chart/
    https://www.shars.com/specification-...-specification

    JKJ
    John that isn't what I meant. I want him to ignore any tables and measurements because he won't be able to set the lathe to make a cut since I doubt he has the tools with the required resolution to do so. By taking a finger type dial indicator and clamping it in the tool post you can run it inside the taper, adjusting the compound angle, until the needle doesn't move. Now your compound is at the same angle as the inside taper away from you as you stand at the lathe. When you put the rod in the lathe chuck and cut the outside nearest you in the normal matter, you match the taper exactly. The angle can be 1 degree, 25 degrees, or 2.06739 degrees. It doesn't mater. You are just matching it to the existing part it will fit. He can shave a little off at a time until the tailstock centre fits the right amount over the little centre he is making.

  15. #15
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    I've never heard of a "finger type dial indicator" but from a google search it looks like a "dial test indicator". And it wasn't clear that you were talking about measuring it on the metal lathe to set the compound. Makes good sense.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    John that isn't what I meant. I want him to ignore any tables and measurements because he won't be able to set the lathe to make a cut since I doubt he has the tools with the required resolution to do so. By taking a finger type dial indicator and clamping it in the tool post you can run it inside the taper, adjusting the compound angle, until the needle doesn't move. Now your compound is at the same angle as the inside taper away from you as you stand at the lathe. When you put the rod in the lathe chuck and cut the outside nearest you in the normal matter, you match the taper exactly. The angle can be 1 degree, 25 degrees, or 2.06739 degrees. It doesn't mater. You are just matching it to the existing part it will fit. He can shave a little off at a time until the tailstock centre fits the right amount over the little centre he is making.

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