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Thread: Dangers from wood flying off the lathe

  1. #16
    As stated there are many variables to the line of fire. As a general rule it is a cone shape coming off the front (rim) and back (chuck, face plate or holding method) of a bowl/piece all the way around the rotation of said piece. I say general rule since ricocheting and fluttering could become a factor. The faster your spinning generally makes that cone a bit tighter since the velocity flings it quicker thus straighter line from the holding method to the rim as referenced by what Robo shows in his video. The thinner (wall thickness) the bowl becomes the cone shape becomes more like a funnel shape. This is because velocity will want to throw it straight however you have the effect of air catching the lighter piece or the piece shatters which can make the piece wobble/flutter more (watch a bird glide with their wings set and how winds can make them wobble/flutter and change direction a bit in flight). These things happen fast and most times we as humans wince and close our eyes as its happening.

    Other variables are the heavier the piece, if it comes out of your holding method, the more likely it will be drop down from a 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock area. In other words it will drop or go down rather than up due to the weight (again reference Robo's video). Don't be fooled though because that is generally and not always. In Robo's video his came loose at a bark inclusion or damage from a storm and not from his holding method. Those types of objects can come free in any spot around the rotation meaning if it came free at the 12:00 point in rotation it could very well come right at your head if you are standing in that cone line of fire. As everyone says the best method is do not stand in the line of fire as the best option for safety. Just try to understand some forces from weight, size, speed and etc. to understand the higher risk "line of fire" areas for the piece you're turning and where you are in the turning process. This is hard for newer turners so I agree this subject could be covered much better in books and demonstrations. Those who have been turning longer understand these areas of expectations of where something most likely will go if it comes loose, unfortunately by experience from it happening and not by some divine knowledge.

  2. #17
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    An interesting bunch of responses to my post and I appreciate the useful information, especially the link to Reed Gray's video. I will watch that as he always provides very useful information. To be clear, I take all the precautions I know about, including:

    Cutting almost all my blanks round.
    Cutting a dovetail shaped recess in the bottom of my bowls that matches my Nova jaws.
    Not turning at excessively high speeds.
    Standing to the "right" of the blank or, when turning the inside way toward the right side of the lathe.
    Learning how to turn with either hand so I don't put myself in front of the blank very much.
    When I feel any vibration which I think is abnormal, I shut off the lathe and check if the blank is secure.
    Wear the Airshield every time I turn.

    So I am doing quite a bit already. Just wondered about other resources which might be out there that would give me a check on whether I'm missing something.

    The only bowls that have come off the lathe for me were small ones which I believe didn't have deep enough recesses, thus causing the wood around the recess to crack.

  3. #18
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    Watched the video. Another great one! I have questions about speed. I mostly turn in the mid-range of a 3-step midi-lathe. I have electronic control over the speed on this step from about 550 to 1,400 rpms. Since I cut my blanks round I usually start a little above the bottom end and, for small bowls up to 5", may end up close to the top end of that range to finish. Does that sound like a reasonable speed for those bowl sizes? What about 5" - 8" bowls? 8" -12" bowls? I know there are a lot of factors but what would generally be recommended for those two size ranges?

  4. #19
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    Buy new gouges with "long and strong" shafts--maybe 3" or so.

  5. #20
    Ft pounds of energy = mass x (velocity squared) Though we are not speaking of sonic velocities as in the case of a bullet, we are talking 5 or 10 pounds at up to 20 miles per hour. OUCH. Still can fracture an orbital bone, take out an eye, necessitate nasal reconstruction, even cause a severe concussion. For that reason, I have a special steel basket that prevents the piece from hitting me.

  6. #21
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    Not sure how that helps but I already own “ long and strong” gouges.

  7. I started woodturning at my local community college several years ago. After the semester ended, I was searching online for more information about bowl turning. I stumbled on Lynn Yamaguchi's story of her very bad accident while turning a bowl. It nearly persuaded me to stop turning! Very sobering, indeed.
    Start here for her story: http://lynneyamaguchi.com/index.php/...dent-recovery/
    She has calculated how strong a face protector must be to stop a high speed projectile.

  8. #23
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    Several years ago I got hit in the chest with a coring that broke free before I thought it was ready. It knocked the wind out of me and sent me to my knees. I'm glad it didn't hit my face shield.

  9. #24
    Everyone takes off there metal cage on the 3520. I would never turn without mine. It saved me big time just 2 days ago. Had a plum piece blow apart at 1500 rpms

  10. #25
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    After reviewing the whole thread, it occurred to me to ask why face shields don't seem to provide any protection for the throat, and no one has come up with some padded aprons or chest (and, uhh, lower) protection. If there is equipment like that, please point it out. Police riot shields seem unwieldy. If there aren't such things, it seems like a design opportunity for some smart person.
    Last edited by Stan Calow; 01-18-2019 at 11:00 AM.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    After reviewing the whole thread, it occurred to me to ask why face shields don't seem to provide any protection for the throat, and no one has come up with some padded aprons or chest (and, uhh, lower) protection. If there is equipment like that, please point it out. Police riot shields seem unwieldy. If there aren't such things, it seems like a design opportunity for some smart person.
    Can't visualize how any traditional turner would need protection below the belt. Do you stand on a stool? Maybe use a wheelchair? Once saw a very early David Ellsworth demo where he would sit on the bed of the lathe to hollow. Hockey masks are also a choice for better face protection, and goalie mask if you want throat protection. Buying a lathe with a wire cage over the work may be another choice to handle your concerns.

  12. #27
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    Thanks Richard, if the consensus of experienced turners is thatadditional protection for the throat has not been found necessary, I'll respect that. I'll re-examine my setup, looking at that cone of the line of fire versus the "area of concern". But I would have thought at least chest protection would be a given.
    Last edited by Stan Calow; 01-18-2019 at 1:56 PM.

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