Acceptable woods for cutting boards including exotics..

[David Ruhland]

I have scoured the net and own a copy of "make your own cutting boards" by David Picciuto (GREAT RESOURCE BTW) I would like to compile a list of acceptable woods for cutting boards, both face and end grain

My staples have always been:

Hard White Maple
Cherry
Purple Heart
Yellow Heart
Walnut

I am questioning the following:
Hickory- (have a lot of this)
Ash
Zebrawood
Paduk
Mahogany?? General or African Mahogany here?
Canary Wood
Lace Wood
Bloodwood

Really questioning this one:
White Oak?

I know my list is extensive, but in looking on the net at cutting board sites these are the woods I see boards made out of. Please feel free to add any of your faves as well

Any info you folks can share or references you can point me to is greatly appreciated!

Time to go shovel snow and then make sawdust...

[Bill Dufour]

I wonder if one of the 700+ eucalyptus species would work. I would think teak and ipe.
Bill D

[Andrew Hughes]

There’s only two woods cutting boards should be made from Hard Maple and Soft Maple.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Oak, ash and hickory should all be fine as far as I know. I have made cutting boards from ash and red oak, and I don't see why white oak shouldn't be suitable. Hickory would be good as it's very hard.
Zach

[David Ruhland]

I wonder if one of the 700+ eucalyptus species would work. I would think teak and ipe.
Bill D

This is Exactly what i am trying to compile... I want to take the "wonder" out of it...


Great responses so far... If some one could give me a simple Yes or no to the wood on my "wonder" list that would be awesome too!

Love this site!!!

[Gary Ragatz]

I'd add walnut to the list. I've made a few boards of walnut and hard maple, and have been pleased with the results.

I'd be shy of white oak, unless the board is just for "show," and not actual cutting - I think it would be too hard to keep clean/sanitary with the open grain. I definitely wouldn't use it in an end-grain board.

[David Ruhland]

I'd add walnut to the list. I've made a few boards of walnut and hard maple, and have been pleased with the results.

Thanks forgot all about Walnut... that is one of my " staples" although the price has really gone up in the past year...

[Zachary Hoyt]

We've had a red oak "cutting board" that is just a piece about 3/4" thick and 7x18" or so for over ten years now. We only use it to cut bread on, it's about the shape of a bread loaf and works nicely for that. I wouldn't cut anything wet or sloppy or any kind of meat on wood of any kind, even if it has closed grain, but that's just my personal view. I know plastic isn't nice, but it's cleanable for those things.
Zach

[Don Orr]

I personally would stick with domestic diffuse porous woods like maple, cherry, beech, birch, sycamore. Ring porous woods like ash, oak, hickory, etc. are more difficult to keep really clean. I do not use ANY exotic woods in any food contact situation. Too much risk of toxicity issues-especially Lacewood which is well known to be a highly allergenic material. I know many people will say they have never had a problem but to me it is just not worth the risk. We have such nice wood right here at home that few people have trouble with. And just so you know, white oak is much less porous than red oak and does not leak through the end grain. There have been studies done the actually show wood is MUCH more sanitary than plastic.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Don if these will be "working" cutting boards. If just decorative...use whatever you want and like.

[Bill Dufour]

DO they still consider wood to be more sanitary for home use then plastic.

[Jim Riseborough]

I have made one from Ash, Oak, Maple and Walnut, I have had it about 6 years, and still alive and well. I oil it about every 6 months.

[Lee Schierer]

I'd be shy of white oak, unless the board is just for "show," and not actual cutting - I think it would be too hard to keep clean/sanitary with the open grain. I definitely wouldn't use it in an end-grain board.

I believe you are referring to Red Oak which has open pores. White Oak does not.

[David Ruhland]

I personally would stick with domestic diffuse porous woods like maple, cherry, beech, birch, sycamore. Ring porous woods like ash, oak, hickory, etc. are more difficult to keep really clean.

Don just to clarify...are you saying that ash, oak and hickory are acceptable, though harder to clean?

[Michelle Rich]

oaks are ok for side grain boards, but not for end grain boards. Check your woods..are they over 950 on the Janka scale? if so they are ok for boards unless you find they are toxic for one reason or another.