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Thread: Sucking dust

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    85

    Sucking dust

    Fellas, looking for a little straight talk on dust collection piping. I know that solid smooth bore piping with a minimum diameter of 6" is preferred but how much would I really be giving up by going with the 6" flex hose wire stuff? I'd need to run about a 7' main branch from my 2hp DC to my jointer/planer/bandsaw. I'd then have 6" horizontal drops down to the machines with 4' lengths of 4" pipe connecting to the actual machine dust ports.

    6" PVC solid pipe will be a pain to hunt down around here, whereas my local LV stocks the smooth bore spiral stuff.

    Here are a few pictures of the machine room half of my shop. Ignore the 18BX it's just taking a nap. The DC will be tucked away in the corner once I've had a chance to take down all the wooden racking.

    IMG_0220.jpg
    IMG_0221.jpg

  2. #2
    http://www.freecalc.com/ductloss.htm

    Run a few calculations with smooth and flex and see what the difference is.

    There is a plant in Langley on the corner of Fraser Highway and Production Way that makes plastic pipe. See if they sell retail too or will sell you some of their reject material. You have a lot more options and cheaper prices than I have here in S’toon.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Westminster BC
    Posts
    3,000
    Have you tried Andrew Sheret for 6" pvc pipe?

  4. #4
    Get hvac duct. They have it everywhere. It's cheaper and it will work better.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Kocher View Post
    Get hvac duct. They have it everywhere. It's cheaper and it will work better.
    Good call, that's an option.

  6. #6
    <<disregard, see it's the 2 HP>>

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    3,499
    Blog Entries
    1
    Steel spiral HVAC duct, the type with smooth seams, works very well & is much stiffer than snap lock.

  8. #8
    Can not see how many hp your cyclone is, but if you use snaplock pipe and fittings, use 26 gauge or heavier, point the crimped ends toward the cyclone, and use 2-90 degree fittings twisted to 45 to make your elbows. Makes for a long sweep elbow. Downside for me is I can't find Y fittings, only T's in snaplock.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,836
    Jim, HVAC wyes are readily available, but they are "backwards" for DC use relative to the crimp direction. They have to be modified by hand to deal with that but most have long enough ends to allow for it. Proper DC wyes will always be better, however, because they tend to have a gentler angle and are sturdier.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Andrew View Post
    Can not see how many hp your cyclone is, but if you use snaplock pipe and fittings, use 26 gauge or heavier, point the crimped ends toward the cyclone, and use 2-90 degree fittings twisted to 45 to make your elbows. Makes for a long sweep elbow. Downside for me is I can't find Y fittings, only T's in snaplock.
    Before I found a cheap source for 6" PVC I was planning on using snap-lock HVAC pipe. (The cheapest I found was on eBay BTW.) Anyway, for wyes, I was going to use saddles like this:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-P...5-06/206199053

    I was going to cut the crimped end off to keep the joints running the correct direction.

    It's an option.

    T

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