[OP]
Contributor
I like to glue straight off the saw as much as possible, but that is usually a 33-50% chance. Either some tiny amount of stress release or blade chatter causes me to take a light pass at the jointer prior to gluing up. Which now sounds like an argument against why i would spend $130 on a ripping blade when im going to process the edge afterwards....
Contributor
My point exactlyOriginally Posted by Patrick Kane
Guest
Glue off a rip saw.
Contributor
yeah, um, wait, uh? wait.. whaa?
Guest
I glue right off my SLR.
Contributor
The best rip blade I have ever bought was a FS Tool 10" bored to fit my Minimax. For stock under 1 1/4" I see no need to run a 12", get better results with a 10" heavy blank blade. With this blade you really have to look hard to see what edge is ripped and which is jointed. I agree that thin kerfs do not save material, quite the opposite in my opinion.
Contributor
I have used most of the blades mentioned here but 3 brands stand out as excellent in my opinion. Kanafusa for all around ripping and crosscuting of solid wood in my slider, AKE for fine crosscuting on the slider and a high tooth count FS Tool blade in the Omga. I do have a Forrest blade that came with my Graule and not impressed with that but it was used and I had it sharpened by my normal saw doc so maybe I am missing something not sending it back to Forrest.
I use Leitz rip blades in the SLR and they seem fine but have never tried anything else. Usually no glueups off a saw blade for me. A ton of US made blades over the years that I would have to look at to remember the names.
I think it’s important to find a good sharpener. Bad sharpening can ruin a good blade in a hurry.
Member
My only opinion on thin kerf blades, and when they might be a reasonable option, is on an underpowered saw. 25 years ago, when I used to do a lot of jobsite work and installations (architectural millwork) I had a contractors saw that I would leave at the jobsite. It was really immensely underpowered for hardwoods over 1" thick, as I recall. I bought a thin kerf blade for it, and it seemed to make a difference. It was a long time ago, but I have carried that thought and reason with me all this time.
I no longer own any underpowered saws, so I no longer use a thin kerf blade for anything. I would agree that they have no place in a commercial shop. The only thing they save is horsepower requirement.
Jeff
Member
my ridge ts2000 and rs1000 shipped from everlast , so im assuming everlast makes the blades for ridge carbide.. found that interesting.
Member
I came back to this thread to see if anyone had addressed the Everlast/Ridge "connection". In rereading the thread I realized I did not include what I think the big reason people like Darcy and production shops don't love Forrest blades and many hobbyists do, it is actually pretty simple and it is by design.
Jim Forrest really designed the "Forrest Grind" for the hobby world and set about selling them at wwing shows and they really are great for hobbyists (don't let anyone tell you different) but they really aren't very good for production shops.
Forrest uses a grind that has very narrow side clearances, a rasp effect behind the tips and narrow ground shoulders. All this produces a beautiful finish off the saw BUT in production it causes very large increases in heat, tooling plus heat equals bad. Saws* designed for industry do not have these tight side clearances to reduce heat production and increase the time between resharpening. So while the average hobbyist might be nonplussed by Darcy's rather blunt opinion the key to tooling is the application so while they might indeed be junk for Darcy's applications they might work better for the hobbyists than the very best industrial blade. You will find similar low clearance grinds on Freud's Premiere Fusion and Infinity's Super General blades.
*in the industry "blades" are called saws not blades BTW so I like to act all smart once in a while
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Contributor
The Resaw King and the Forrest woodworker 2 have a lot in common. But I wouldn’t say they are only appealing to hobbiest. Professional/Amateur furniture makers use them.
I thought Darcy is a machinery dealer/restoration I didn’t know he sells lumber also.
Aj
Member
I consider amateur furniture makers to be hobbyists and professional studio furniture makers have similar requirements, duty cycles and feedrates to hobbyists, albeit they MAY have more duty cycles per week. So I should have included studio furniture makers but they still have the key differences from production work.
Darcy also does custom millwork which is production facing and favors blades designed with production duty cycles.
I also agree the RK and WWII have similarities in the grinds. The Trimaster and Woodmaster CT, for example, have grinds that are more appropriate for production work and cutting material that is not conducive to using tight clearance grinds.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Contributor
Fair enough but the hobbiest may not have the passion or love that the Studio craftsman has. The Amatuer and the Pro share this quality.
I think the Amateur and Pro share the same coin just different sides.
Aj
Member
I have never made any distinction between an amateur and hobbyist woodworker. In fact, I don't think I have ever used the term amateur with regards to furniture making, the Paul Sellers discussion is as close as I have gotten to that. I also don't see a clear line between the hobbyists and professionals passion, the most passionate woodworker I know personally has never sold a single piece.
Semantics aside the requirements of production work on a saw are different from that of someone making a piece or a few pieces at a time whether they are getting paid or not. That is the salient issue here and the Forrest blades are less suited to production work and thus have a generally less favorable opinion by those that engage this type of work.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Member
Interesting discussion. I bought a WW2 because of the recommendations on this forum, and was not impressed. Do appreciate the difference between a rip blade and crosscut blade, and bought a set from Carbide Processors for my Hammer K3 Winner, Tenryu brand. Best blades I have ever used. One other thing I have found, is that cleaning restores a blade to near new condition. So when changing from rip to crosscut, if a blade looks like it has pitch starting to build up, I put it in a pan and spray cleaner on it. Only has to soak a minute or 2, then run a tooth brush over it, rinse with water, dry and it is ready to put away. When I worked in a pro shop, found that blades were covered with pitch, then overheated, and were then worthless.
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