12" ripping blade Ridge Carbide or Forrest?

[Patrick Kane]

Need a blade for my saw im finishing up, and while ive only ever used Forrest and Felder blades, im open to suggestions. Thats technically a lie, i did use a freud industrial blade many years ago. I know people love those blades, but i am not one of them. Looks like $133 for 30t Forrest WWII and $130 for 24t Ridge Carbide TS2000. 99% of the time i am ripping hardwood. Most of those rips are in the 1.5-2" thick range with thinner stock about 30% of the time. TS2000 is 1/32" thicker, which might be meaningful in a larger blade. I guess its also worth throwing in the 20t WWII that is only $103. Not sure what i gain or lose in 20 vs 24 vs 30 tooth count. 20 teeth over 12" diameter seems pretty coarse, but what do i know. Any reason to make the switch and abandon Forrest for Ridge Carbide?

[lowell holmes]

I can only speak about the Forrest blade, but I have had one for many years. I had it re-sharpened at Circle Saw in Houston some years back.

I am still using it, and if I needed a new one, I probably would look for another Forrest blade.

[Jim Becker]

Both brands are good. I use Forrest. In fact, I just ordered a second 12" WW-II 48T blade for my slider today with the Cyber Monday sale at Silver's Mill. I do have a ripping blade, but it's a 10" and since I use it so infrequently, I've chosen not to upgrade to 12". But...it cuts thick and gnarly like butta...

[Dave Cav]

I have a Delta 12" table saw, and I have two Oshlun 12" 28 tooth rip blades. $39 on Amazon. They're not "glue line" rip blades but I've done more than a few glueups straight off the saw with them. I do probably 99% of my ripping with them and don't have any complaints.

[David Kumm]

What is the hp of the saw? ( I forget what you are working on ) I like a thick plate and lots of carbide on a rip blade. Ridge, Leitz, FS Tool, Royce Ayr, Nap Gladu are all heavy industrial choices. Tenyru and Forrest are good but usually slightly more narrow in plate and kerf. Depends on what your saw can handle. Dave

[Tom M King]

Amana makes a thicker blade too, or at least they're sold with their name on it. I don't know if they make them or not, but I bought a couple of their smaller blades to try on circular saws, and like them a lot.

[Warren Lake]

what dave said plus some swear by Kanafusa. The bottom line is a saw company said no company makes the best blades, that they all have different blades that shine, if that is true then the names dont mean as much. Andrew that used to post here loved the Kanafusa stuff, ive yet to try them and will. I dont care about thin kerf, in a hand circular saw found them to be junk, they wander. Realize that doesnt matter on a table saw and of larger size and thicker. Do have a 14" glue line blade here, Leitz I think someone got cheap at a US machinery show, sold it to me cheap, does say glue line, yet to try it, am I confusing or what

[Patrick Kane]

Only 5hp, so nothing too crazy on this saw. Ok, so then the ridge could be a better choice than Forrest? I completely forgot about Royce Ayr, but i know ive seen the name either on FOG or here. Are they all the same 5/32" thickness, or are some thicker?

[Darcy Warner]

I like everlast. I usually toss all Forrest blades in the scrap pile.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I usually toss all Forrest blades in the scrap pile.

I've got my popcorn, so let the fun begin

[Darcy Warner]

I've got my popcorn, so let the fun begin

I hate their blades. Don't like the tooth geometry, don't like that basically strong arm you into sending it back to them to sharpen. There are way better choices out there for less money.

[David Kumm]

I run a bunch of old saws and have bought old industrial blades off CL and Ebay. I have a good sharpening service and believe that sharpening is more important than brand when you get into the industrial level. If there is plenty of carbide left I'll buy a used blade for 50 or less and spend the 30-50 to have it sharpened. I end up with a blade that will still cost less than a new Forrest. I buy Forrest when the kerf width matches my split scorer so I don't have to reset it. Dave

[Patrick Kane]

I don’t have any problems with Forrest—used a variety of blades over the last 5-6 years—but I do feel like I fell into their marketing ploy. As Darcy describes they have built an air of they have the best blades, need proprietary sharpening methods etc. I forget the pricing off the top of my head, but for them to resharpen a 10” blade of 40-50 teeth, it is like $30-40. That’s double Dynamic Saw. Anyways, everyone’s statements coincide with the whole reason I started the thread. A lot of people, myself included, are lead to believe Forrest is the best, because they do a great job of marketing to hobbyists and small shops. Kinda similar to Sawstop.

Ok, can’t find out where the heck to buy Royce Ayr. Looks like the closest distributor is a few hour drive. Any reason not to buy the Ridge Carbide ts2000?

[Andrew Hughes]

You didn’t get mislead Patrick Forrest makes good blades so does Ridge. There’s no shame in trying a new maker. I’d like to try them all myself I love cutting wood even if it doesn’t need to be cut.
What saw are you finishing new old?

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I’ve got a Forrest WWII on my CSMS, Ridge RS1000 on my RAS and Forrest blades on my Skilsaw and PC trim saw. All are great blades. I can’t tell the difference in the quality of cut between the WWII and RS1000. Ridge seems to be slightly cheaper, while Forrest offers a much wider selection. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy the Ridge if it suits your needs.