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Thread: Fahrenheat FUH54 (5000w) troubleshooting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
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    695

    Fahrenheat FUH54 (5000w) troubleshooting

    I have a Fahrenheat FUH54 (5000w) heater in my shop and it has worked well for over a year. Now, it cycles on and off every minute or so, even at the highest setting. It used to stay on for hours at a stretch on the high setting.

    After doing some research, it seems that the two most likely culprits are the hi-limit switch and the thermostat. I'm not opposed to replacing both but I'm wondering if there is a way to figure out which one (or neither one) is the problem. I'm also open to other ideas.

    Thanks.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
    Posts
    1,369
    1-monitor the leaving air temperature from the heater to see how high it actually is
    2- open up the housing and make sure no mice, birds, or rats nests blocking air flow
    IF good air flow from the start and not too high temperature then
    3- jump around the thermostat so the heater should run continuously
    4-replace the high limit, DO NOT RUN WITH HIGH LIMIT BYPASSED OR REMOVED
    good luck
    Ron

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,872
    The inexpensive/simple thermostat "went" in my Fahrenheat unit toward the middle of the second year using it. It started doing what you describe and then literally "fried" one day. (fortunately, I was in the shop when it happened and killed the circuit immediately) I ended up replacing the internal part that was a crispy-critter with an external interface and simple wall mount thermostat which was much more reliable, albeit at a cost. (I don't use this unit now because I installed a mini-split, but keep it in reserve "just in case")
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
    Posts
    695
    Thank you both.

    Ron, I will give your procedure a try.


  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    1,740
    The heater will also cycle if the temp is below 50. See page 50 of the manual. I also did what Jim did and installed a new thermostat on the wall. The wire to the thermostat is undersized and could burn up so running the thermostat with 10g solved the issue.

    This is cycling is a PIA since I don’t leave to on. If it’s cold out it takes a while to get to 50. If it would stay on then it would be great. It does it’s job but could better.
    Don

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    Since I am replacing the Tstat on my Dayton G73 5kw heater, I think my question is in line.

    I have a Dimplex TD522w stat. Double pole. 2 red-black sets of wires.
    One of the wire sets is connected to a heater in the stat. The other set to the switch.
    The heater runs on 240v @ up to 20 amps. I have one element disconnected for 17 amp draw. Tstat is rated for 22a.

    The schematic below mentions connecting the internal heater in-line with the stat and the Dayton.
    Do I need to connect the tstat heater, or just use the switch wires? I'm leaning toward just using the switch contacts.

    https://www.baseboardheaterstore.com...std_manual.pdf
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

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