2 Part Epoxy help needed

[mike mcilroy]

I want to fill some knot holes in an oak table top. Other than the regular tubes of 5 min epoxy I could only find 2 part bartop epoxy, is this all the same for my application?
Secondly if it is, can I tint this with dye and would powder or liquid be better...I'm assuming the powder because I'm thinking the water based dye will affect the chemical reaction. I have been wrong before though 😃
Experienced input will be appreciated.

[Steve Eure]

I am not an expert on epoxy, but have used quite a bit to repair cracks and knot holes in some of my work. I have been using System Three epoxy for the most part and have had great success with it. They have several different types for different applications. Go to their website for some great advise tha tips on which to use and other instructions. https://www.systemthree.com/
There are other brands such as West but they tend to be a bit pricey for me.
As far as tinting, I've used powder and liquid to tint with with no ill affects with either. You can use just about anything to mix with the epoxy, such as metal shavings, sanding dust and wood shavings, etc..
One thing to be mindful of is the temperature and humidity levels while working with epoxy. System Three does have one that can be used in lower temps., but I have not tried it.
As I stated before, I'm not an expert, but I hope this helps in some way.

[mike mcilroy]

Thanks...I've seen the videos with system 3 and west systems epoxy just hoping I can use whats readily available and not spend an arm and a leg.
Thanks for the tinting advice.

[John K Jordan]

You can get a small amount of System 3 epoxy for a reasonable cost. Highly recommended.
This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/System-Three-.../dp/B07DSXNBSL
I think this has a 30 minute working time. I don't use 5-minute epoxy for much except for tool handles.

JKJ

[Wayne Lomman]

It is best not to use liquid colouring agents. They will change the reaction in ways that are not immediately obvious. Powders, metal dust etc etc all work very well. What ever product you buy, read the data sheet and don't exceed the recommended layer thickness. The curing releases heat and if you make the mass too big, it will discolour and smoke and generally look worrying. Cheers

[mike mcilroy]

Thanks I'll go with the powder.
I still need to know if I can use the bartop finish epoxy for the purpose of filling knots. I would like to use it because I have it already. I need to know if there will be any problems.

[Wayne Lomman]

Mike, if you use an inert material to turn the bar top epoxy into a paste, you have a reasonable chance of it working. This can be sawdust, sand, talc etc. You are sacrificing clarity however. The best test is to mix up a quantity equal to the size of one of your knots and see what happens. What is the name of the product you want to use? Cheers

[mike mcilroy]

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.b...000686141.html

This is the stuff I have

[Jamie Buxton]

There's a Lee Valley store in Windsor. They sell West System epoxy. Even if you do something else about epoxy, you should really go find that store. It is quite a candy store for a woodworker.

3009 Howard Ave.
Roundhouse Plaza
Windsor, Ontario N8X 3Y9

[Bennett Ostroff]

Mike - you can absolutely use your bar top epoxy to fill the knots. It will work well. You will get much better results if you heat up the resin and hardener (separately) before mixing. Put the bottles in front of a heater or in the sun. It will mix better and reduce the amount of bubbles you get. Quick, light passes with a propane torch 10-15 mins after pouring will pop most air bubbles that have risen to the surface.

For the color, a tiny bit of pigment powder should do the trick, but I personally tend to prefer the look of clear. Wait until it's rock hard before sanding. Then apply your finish just as you otherwise would.

[Wayne Lomman]

Mike, Bennett has the experience with your product, so follow his advice. My experience is with a wide range of industrial epoxies which have a wide range of characteristics for a wide range of end uses so i never assume anything until I know what I am dealing with. By the way, US local store links don't often work over here so a product name is much more researchable. Cheers

[mike mcilroy]

Bennett thanks greatly for the advice. I was going to tape the tape the top, flip it over and pour so the bubbles will rise to the "bottom".
Wayne the differences are the exact reason for the thread because I just didn't feel safe assuming it would be the same.
BTW its Varathane Bartop Finish Epoxy from HD Canada

[Bennett Ostroff]

Yes, flipping it over is a good plan. It may help to seal around the edges of the tape. You could wipe some thick CA glue, wood glue, 5 min epoxy, glue gun, etc. That bar top epoxy is very slow curing and will dislodge most tape from wood once it works its way in between. I once had 30 oz of epoxy fall straight into my hair when I was under a slab trying to quickly repair a failing dam. Try to avoid that

[mike mcilroy]

No problem I'm bald😃
Thanks I will backer block under the tape for support.
Jamie I know about Lee Valley. I was extremely happy to not have to drive to London to get there...if I was doing this type of project often I might spend that much for that quantity but it's just one table for now and would rather use the money on tools there.
Thanks again for the input I'll try to get some pictures when complete.

[Jamie Buxton]

...
Jamie I know about Lee Valley. I was extremely happy to not have to drive to London to get there...i.

That store location I posted is in Windsor, not London. It is less than a mile from LaSalle, where you live.