Can anyone recommend a Hole saw set?

[dennis thompson]

I make a lot of toys, many of which need wheels. I usually buy the wheels, the wheels will cost say $5 while the shipping will be $8, this drives nuts. So today I made some wheels using a cheap hole saw set I had from, yes from Harbor Freight ( as my granddaughter would say "don't judge me) and it worked ok but it took a while with a lot of jamming and burning. I'd like to buy a better hole saw set, I guess with sizes from about 1 1/4" to 2 1/4". I'm usually cutting through 3/4" or thinner pine.Can anyone recommend a set for say $100 or less?
Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

Lenox bimetal hole saws cut really well. You can buy one arbor and a variety of sizes of cutters to fit it. Buy only the sizes you need.

For a bit more money you can buy a nice set of wooden wheel cutters.

[johnny means]

All hole saws are evil. Except for those Milwaukee ones with the carbide cutters, but those are like 50 bucks per. One technique that helps is to always have the hole saw run off the edge of your piece. This allows the sawdust to be ejected from the cut. Also, drill halfway through your board than switch sides. This minimizes the amount of saw in the hole.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I recommend against buying a set. You'll end up with a bunch of sizes you don't use, and two or three that you do. Why not just buy the ones you do? I've used Starrett and Dewalt for years, but recently switched to Freud. All the sizes use the same arbor, its a quicklock system that makes getting the plug out easier, and they cut as well as any. Just get one arbor, and a couple sizes of cutters, and you are set. Reasonably priced too. BTW, I hate looking for the right arbor for whatever saw I'm trying to use.

[Martin Wasner]

I worked ok but it took a while with a lot of jamming and burning.

Blow compressed air into the cut as you're plunging through the material.
It evacuates the chips and keeps the tool cool. Play with where you're directing the air to find the sweet spot.

[Frank Pratt]

Or drill a hole or 2 around the circumference, just outside the inner diameter. That allows the sawdust to clear easily. Although if your doing a bunch at your bench or drill press, I think the compressed air trick would be better.

[Stan Coryell]

The Lenox saws are the best. We buy Starretts at work, basically disposable. I wouldn't buy a set, although I have two. One Greenlee, one Morse. The Greenlee set is very good, but old. I'm not sure about their current quality. The Morse set is okay. It would be fine for home. Mcmaster carries Morse. Don't waste your time or money on anything from a box store or Ace. Good advice above on keeping the chips clear. Make sure you follow the recommended speeds, it is a challenge with bigger diameters. Use wax! It'll help.

Stan

[Ben Rivel]

Yep, Lenox Bi-Metal. Get figure out the sizes you need, buy the mandrels for the size ranges youd like, then buy the hole saws as you need. LINK

[Jim Becker]

For your application, I'd use a "fly cutter" type drill setup in a drill press. You'll get cleaner edges and not have to pry the "wheel on the hoof" out of the hole saw.

[Tom M King]

Worth having in any hole saw toolbox: https://vsctools.com/shop/the-plug-popper/

[Mike Kees]

Tom thanks for that link. This is a tool that I need.

[Tony Pisano]

We used Lenox bi metal in the shop as long as I was there, and we cut metal. It's also what I have at home for wood. As mentioned above, build your set as you go along.

[Rod Sheridan]

Buy the one size carbide hole saw you need.

I don't buy anything else for hole saws that I will frequently use............Rod.

[Jerome Stanek]

I use only 3 sizes of hole saws and I get the carbide I drill a lot of p lam and that stuff is tuff. You have to use the slowest speed you can so you don't burn the bit or material

[Tom M King]

When I'm running a hole saw into something where there is a high chance of damage to the hole saw, I use an old cheap one. It doesn't take long to sharpen one of those using a 4-1/2" sidegrinder with metal cutting wheel. The sharpening doesn't have to be pretty for that use. I have some that are over 30 years old, and have been sharpened some unknown number of times.