Remote control for starter

[Martin Wasner]

I bought a Oneida cyclone for the router. I ordered a remote relay from them to start it, but it won't work on 480v

Any other good options out there? I'd like to have a remote for it since it's a ways away from the console on the router.

[Jim Becker]

Martin, I'm totally unfamiliar with the foibles of the 480V world, but I can say that I have great success using a contactor for controlling my Onieda cyclone remotely. The control voltage can be Low Voltage (12v DC, etc.) or 120v with most contactors and the line side is whatever is needed...'can likely even be controlled from the CNC machine if you dig in deep enough. See if you can find one that supports what you need on the line side and go from there. Here's a simple diagram of how my setup is, um...setup...obviously, I'm running 240v 1~ but the concept should be the same for 3~.

[Malcolm McLeod]

I bought a Oneida cyclone for the router. I ordered a remote relay from them to start it, but it won't work on 480v

Any other good options out there? I'd like to have a remote for it since it's a ways away from the console on the router.

Devil's in the details, and seems like I might be preaching to the choir .... I assume the DC is 480V/3ph?? If so, most 3ph motor starters have a control power transformer to create either a 120VAC or 24VDC control circuit (used on all the buttons, lights, and motor starter coil).

I have not studied Oneida's remote relay, but (again assume) you need to power the relay's logic with proper voltage. If the remote (fob) then energizes the relay (closes what I hope are 'dry' contacts), it should be a simple matter to parallel the relay's dry contacts with the DC's start push-button. So, either the start button OR the relay can send control power to the DC starter.

Powering the relay logic with the proper voltage is probably the challenge here....??

[Frank Pratt]

Yep, just use the Oneida controller to switch the coil voltage on your blower starter. If the coil voltage is 120V it's straight forward, but if it's 480V then a relay will be needed with a 120V coil. The relay contacts then will control the voltage to the starter coil. A relay is cheap & available at any electronics supply place or online.

[Martin Wasner]

The relay is 220-240V. Oneida is taking it back, they say it won't work and my electrician said it won't work. I really don't understand electricity. It's pretty much voodoo and magic to me. As far as I'm concerned, when I hit the button, the elves go to work.

I have zero 230 on that end of the building. There's hardly any in the building to start with. I do have 120 down there, and semi close, but it didn't sound like this would work.

I also don't know what it does for control power. 480 going to a button is kinda scary.

[Malcolm McLeod]

... voodoo and magic to me. ... the elves go to work.
...

Ok, so much for the choir.

Your electrician should be able to tell you the voltage used on the control power circuit of the DC. (Please tell me he can!! ... or dbl your fire insurance coverage.)

If Oneida can match that voltage with a remote control relay, you are all set. Get one and have your electrician go to town on it.

If Oneida can't, get a Oneida remote relay compatible with the voltage you DO have nearby (120VAC), and then as Frank said, get a interposing relay with the same coil voltage (120VAC). Use this relay's dry contacts to switch the DC's control power.

>>> Remote fob energizes the remote relay coil; remote relay's output contact energizes the interposing relay coil; interposing relay output contacts switch the DC's (??V) control power to the DC starter coil.

Say 'Hi' to my elves!

[Frank Pratt]

On my Oneida system, the wireless remote just controls the power to the coil on the mag starter & could easily be interfaced to your 480V starter, assuming they sold you the same remote. If you only have 480V at that end of the building then a small control transformer may be required to supply the remote module with the voltage it likes.

A remote for the DC would certainly be nice to have, particularly in a shop the size of yours.

[Martin Wasner]

We're just going to plug it in and see if it goes boom. lol. Worst case on 208 it'll just buzz and not have enough to close the contactor.

The other thought is to mount everything inside the cabinet for the router and put a on/off switch right there since the collector is dedicated to the cnc anyways.

[Frank Pratt]

We're just going to plug it in and see if it goes boom. lol. Worst case on 208 it'll just buzz and not have enough to close the contactor.

The other thought is to mount everything inside the cabinet for the router and put a on/off switch right there since the collector is dedicated to the cnc anyways.

I think that's what I'd do if it's dedicated to that machine. Might want to consider using a timing relay that'll keep the blower running for several seconds after the router shuts down.

[Martin Wasner]

I think that's what I'd do if it's dedicated to that machine. Might want to consider using a timing relay that'll keep the blower running for several seconds after the router shuts down.

I wasn't planning on having the router trigger it. The electrician recommended that, but I don't know if the complication is necessary.

[Frank Pratt]

Ya, sometimes simpler is better. You'll know soon enough if someone forgets to turn on the DC.

[Jim Becker]

You may want/need a buck/boost transformer for the cyclone if it's going to be fed from 208v 1~ rather than 240v 1~ to keep the RPMs up to spec...check with Oneida on that.

[Martin Wasner]

You may want/need a buck/boost transformer for the cyclone if it's going to be fed from 208v 1~ rather than 240v 1~ to keep the RPMs up to spec...check with Oneida on that.

The electrician was thinking he'd just run 208 to the relay for the remote. The main dust collector in the shop, both motors are 480, but we pulled a 120 into the control cabinet for the control power. The other two motors, (airlock & transfer fan), for that will be on 480v as well.

The motor on this dust collector needs to be on 480 and he already pulled a circuit for that. It's hanging there just waiting to be hooked up.

[Jim Becker]

Ah, ok. that makes sense. 120v or low voltage is good for control. As I mentioned earlier, I use 120v for that, but could have easily used LV, too.

[Brian Behrens]

I don't know anything about 480 contactors. But I used a 240 contactor for my Clearvue cyclone, and a $10 Christmas tree remote control from Lowe's. It works perfectly and the remotes are cheap enough to replace if they quit.